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Old 03 August 2010, 09:26   #11
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Originally Posted by JakeT View Post
Finally,
the transponder fitted on the rear has a little paddle wheel on it. Presumably this is for speed through water but it is above the level of the bottom of the hull so don't know how efficient it is likely to be. Not that bothered about it as have GPS but depth would be useful. Is this same unit going to be the one with depth sounder in it. There is depth on chart plotter that only seems to work intermittently and would be useful for anchoring etc.

thanks

Jake
Jake,
have a look at the file here; probably not the guide for your exact model but might help. The earlier screw holes suggest that the TXD has been reloacted.
http://www.airmartechnology.com/uplo.../17-247-03.pdf

It's an instalation guide for paddlewheel transducers, from what I can see you'd not get a very good speed reading where it's currently mounted

ITB
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Old 03 August 2010, 13:21   #12
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how did you find the folks at Tyrone Snell?
they must be getting used to us northerners coming down to buy Ribs, they patched up my trailer a few weeks ago when I bought the Gemini from a bloke in Truro.... it was on a De Graaf trailer, had to replace hubs , road wheels, winch and a wobble wheel!
They were super busy and did it all in two hours for me while I waited.

Good luck with the new rib, like you am finding out my purchase is rather more of a project than I had imagined (its being re-tubed at the moment!)
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Old 03 August 2010, 16:12   #13
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yeah they were very helpful and all the work they've done is great, though seems expensive though I have had no experience of trailer repair costs before. Figured it's not something to mess about with as I didn't fancy the boat overtaking me on the motorway so better to get it all done properly. Yeah it is turning into a project but quite looking forward to learning about all the inner workings of it. Whilst hoping for the best when we bought it, knew a boat of that age and price is likely to need some TLC. Who's doing the re-tubing and what is that going to set you back?!
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Old 03 August 2010, 17:35   #14
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Super Hero Tyrone retired and sold the business a couple of years ago. The new guys appear to have carried on 'as was', inc, writing out a bill.
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Old 03 August 2010, 17:44   #15
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Humber are re-tubing for me.
All the baffles were down or blown in the original tubes. There were a few bad repairs, but in a couple of places the seams were coming apart between the sections, big enough gaps for me to put my hands through !! To get all the baffles (five section tubes) repaired would have involved opening it all up, quite an expensive repair that was beyond my skills, and at the end I would still have had an old set of tubes. As the hull was in such good nick, I figured a new set of tubes would give the boat a lot more years and increase its value. I did ask several of the trade members here to quote for retubing. I wont go into exact costs, but RibRaff (Ed) on here was by a very small amount cheaper than Humber, a saving which would have been nullified by driving down to the South West and back from Newcastle. Hull just took me a couple of hours instead of 9 ! I know lots of people on the forum have opinions about tube manufacturers, and time will tell if Humber were the right choice, but so far they have been good to deal with, there was a good vibe at their premises. I get the boat back in mid September when I get back to the UK from working away. I will post pictures then.
Good call on getting the trailer sorted before setting off.... !
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Old 04 August 2010, 08:30   #16
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Hi Jake,

I have a 1996 Ribtec 645 (currently in 6 pieces but that's another story...) with a Honda 130. With a clean hull and 2 people on board it'll do 38kts at WOT so I'd expect you to be getting something in the low 40s with your setup.

It'll have two tanks so I'm guessing that one of them ran dry - fuel gauges are notorious for their ability to be utterly incorrect... although at least the one you pulled the wire off will now be consistent

Rib Shop sell the bung for the transom :

Transom Bung

Cheers,
Mark
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Old 04 August 2010, 10:24   #17
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Cheers Mark,
thanks for the bung link, it's just the right one I think!

If I can get 40 knots will be very happy, and will be more than enough. Will also hopefully mean can cruise at 25 knots without WOT and thus not burn so much fuel.

Need to do so some research on prop sizes and whether the twins are setup right or just been plonked on as two singles. They are not counter rotating props so they may be just off the shelf. Am I right in thinking that with a twin 90 setup I should have a higher pitched prop than a smaller boat designed for a single 90 setup (if you see what I mean)? The current props are 18P and from a rough measurement with a ruler look like 12" diameter, are these about right?

It does get onto the plane very quickly (even with the bilge FULL of water) but the tachos are not working so need to fix these first. Anyone know how to fix 'em?
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Old 04 August 2010, 13:59   #18
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the tachos are not working so need to fix these first. Anyone know how to fix 'em?
depends what is wrong with them! The two most likely things if they have stopped working all together are either a dodgy connection on the wiring to them or the internals are goosed (possibly having got wet). If its the later its unlikely to be ecconomical to fix unless you are, or know an electonics wizard.

I'm assuming you have a "tradtional" tacho rather than modern fancy stuff that is "networked". In terms of the wiring you should have (on each tacho) a live (12 V dc) power feed (probably only live when the ignition key is "on". If its not live with the engine running trace it back looking for dodgy connections or possible blown fuses. It should give something more like 14V with the engine running - so if its only giving 12 it might indicate corroded wires/connections.

You should also have a ground connection which has a good contact to engine/battery ground.

Then there will be a "signal" line which feeds the engine speed as a series of pulses from the engine. If you put a multimeter on this set to 20V A.C. range you will see the voltage increase as the revs go up. If this is the case and all wiring / connections are in good order, and any "pole setting" switch is set correctly then you probably need to replace the gauges themselves.

You may also have a "light" connection as well - which is wired so the back light comes on (either through an "instrument light" switch - or just through your "nav lights" switch).
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Old 04 August 2010, 14:55   #19
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You're fortunate on two counts. Yam 90's make good money and will do much better than any other 90 of the same vintage. And, they're both right hookers, which gives them equal value.
Personally, I'd be tempted to offload the 90's now whilst there's a bit of season left and buy a nice 10yo Merc/Mariner Opti 150/200 (whatever max design HP is) with Smartcraft gauges and all the bits. From memory, the boat will tidy and the trailer is ok. The Ribtec 655 is a decent enough hull and you'd end up with a nice rig with a bit of value. Winter project.
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Old 04 August 2010, 16:38   #20
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Thanks Polwart I'll get my multimeter out and try to trace the fault. The tacho is combined with the engine oil warning lamps and the trim level, all on the same gauge so I gues there'll be signal wires for each of these bits. There is power to the unit but the LCD display is scrambled so I suspect the whole unit is U/S. Is there a good place to get S/H ones? Have heard on here new ones are bit pricey.

Hi Moller, when you say the Yams make good money how much would I get for each? I presume they get good money cos they are desirable so isn't it better to keep them? The reason we chose a boat with twins was for long range safety as hoping to get to France in it eventually.

The max hp for the hull is 200hp so how much would a 10yo 200 opti cost? Also, As it appears there is two independent fuel tanks would it be an issue to fuel just the one engine?
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