No drill dole fin fitted

Devonmark35 · 07 June 2011, 09:29

Hi

I decided to opt for a 'no drill' stingray junior to try and cure my bow high issue during take off. Many helpful guys have informed me that, for my set up, a set of dole fins might work well for me. I liked the idea but did not want to drill my cav plate.

I found these in the US with mixed feedback. Alot of people sugested they work if they dont fall off! I had to trim a couple of mm here and there but it fits like a glove now. The anode bolt has plenty of thread and Im going glue the bolt into place to make sure it does not fall off.

Looks good too (well as good as it could be).

I will let you know how it goes when the weather gets better.

solos60 · 07 June 2011, 17:04

I've used the Stingray model XR111 for the last 3 years on my 70 HP Tohatsu and had no problems.
It works ready great !
Welcome To Marine Dynamics

Devonmark35 · 07 June 2011, 18:08

Thats great to hear. What type of thread lock did you use? I am considering super glue but not sure if the bolt would ever come out again!

jyasaki · 07 June 2011, 18:24

You will need to remove that bolt to get to impeller, and for anode replacement. Go with Loctite thread locker. Permanent (red) would be OK, but I'd personally go with the removable, medium strength stuff (blue? Green? don't remember now.)

jky

Devonmark35 · 07 June 2011, 18:44

Yep good advice - blue is medium strength so I'll go with that.

Cheers

Poly · 08 June 2011, 12:32

Stupid question - does threadlock on an anode bolt risk poor electrical connectivity?

martini · 08 June 2011, 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polwart

Stupid question - does threadlock on an anode bolt risk poor electrical connectivity?

I shouldn't think so, the thread lock will only live in the areas where there's no physical contact, ie the roots and crests

The correct mounting bolt for the anodes above my props comes with threadlock on it from the factory

Devonmark35 · 08 June 2011, 17:12

I did think about that but as said it already had traces of red thread lock on. I used blue which is medium strength - locktite 232.

Im more concerned about the big plastic hydrofoil isolating the entire anode! Not sure if that will cause problems!?!

longjohn · 01 July 2011, 23:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by solos60

I've used the Stingray model XR111 for the last 3 years on my 70 HP Tohatsu and had no problems.
It works ready great !
Welcome To Marine Dynamics

Which model do you have? I just bought a XRIII Junior - as suggested for up to 75HP motors - its far too small - won't even fit over the cav plate of my Suzuki DF70 - so I guess I need the Senior?

Or should I bother at all - was just being curious really - would like to plane at a lower speed tho. Currently can just about plane at 12knots - like to reduce this to 10 knots or so

longjohn · 23 July 2011, 18:38

Was worried the XRIII senior would be far too big as its more than double the size of the Junior so did a bit more research and came up with this:

Force 4 Marine Dynamics Stingray Stealth Hydrofoil - Only £89.95 - Force 4 Chandlery

another no drill hydrofoil from Stingray - fits like a glove. Fitted it yesterday and took it out for sea trials today. Have to say first impressions are very favourable. Instant holeshot - not that was ever a real problem, but even better now. I used to be able to maintain a plane at just over 12knots - this have been reduced to about 9 - great for the Poole Harbour speed limit of 10knots. Boat is also much more comfortable at speed with much less fore and aft pitching.

So - so far highly recommended and it didn't fall off on first use! Still looks very firmly attached despite a pretty high speed dash in fairly choppy water (over 30knots) and some tight turns.

John

Devonmark35 · 24 July 2011, 09:18

+1 for John comments

Very impressed with overall increase in boat usability. It now starts to plane much earlier and the bow high attitude has been completely cured. The foil is still tight and in place. I did put some creep marks on just to keep an eye on any bolt movement but I think the thread glue has done a good job. If anything it feels like the boats energetic tendancy to jump around has been slightly damped down which suits me very well.

I guess its horses for courses and this foil for this (4S 50HP/4M shallow V hull) application works well.

Xk59D · 25 July 2011, 14:59

been debating one of these myself for curing too many fat gits at the back of my back and trying to get onto the plane :-). boat thinks it is a nasa rocket briefly before going up and over so wondering about trying one of these to cure.

have you noticed any drop in top speed/fuel etc?

how exactly are they fitted? annode bolt?

cheers

longjohn · 26 July 2011, 08:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xk59D

been debating one of these myself for curing too many fat gits at the back of my back and trying to get onto the plane :-). boat thinks it is a nasa rocket briefly before going up and over so wondering about trying one of these to cure.

have you noticed any drop in top speed/fuel etc?

how exactly are they fitted? annode bolt?

cheers

very simple fitting - just slips over the anti can plate and then helps in place with 6 grub screws horizontally tightening to the sharp edge of the can plate - there is a gripper bar between the screws and the plate. You can see the 3 grub screw holes from the underneath shot attached.

Been out twice now and still firmly in place - still good for well over 30knots but haven't really maxed out - possibly a knot or two reduction not sure. Can't really tell on the fuel consumption yet but would expect that plane initialisation a lot less much much easier to maintain a just on the plane speed.

9D280 · 27 July 2011, 14:28

I guess the top speed / drag thing will depend where your cav plate sits relative to the water when on the plane..... I discovered last time out that mine is (just) clear of the water!

Xk59D · 27 July 2011, 15:09

thanks for info, debating getting one even more now.

never been in a boat with one fitted to see any difference and 80 quid is a tank of fuel versus buying this!....decisions :-)

cheers

longjohn · 27 July 2011, 19:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

I guess the top speed / drag thing will depend where your cav plate sits relative to the water when on the plane..... I discovered last time out that mine is (just) clear of the water!

I would have thought that if the anti-cav plate was clear of the water - your prop will be cavitating or ventilating - not what you want! Maybe just on the surface bit definitely not clear of the water

Are you sure you don't mean the fins above the anti-cav plate?

9D280 · 01 August 2011, 08:56

It does let go at the slightest provovation........

Pic shows it at 20-ish knots. To put it in perspective there is a roughly 1.75" gap between the plate you can see & the cav' plate. Looking at the front of the leg, I estimate that is about 1.5" (having scaled it in the warmth & dry of the garage) so my suspicion is that add 5 knots & a bit more lift from the hull...... Also it's got a relatively small diameter prop, with a good 1.5" gap from TDC to the underside of the plate. If I slide my old Yam K series over the splies that gap reduces to about 0.5".

My next test is to stick a bit of luminous tape round the front at cav plate height & take the pic again.

longjohn · 02 August 2011, 09:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

It does let go at the slightest provovation........

Pic shows it at 20-ish knots. To put it in perspective there is a roughly 1.75" gap between the plate you can see & the cav' plate. Looking at the front of the leg, I estimate that is about 1.5" (having scaled it in the warmth & dry of the garage) so my suspicion is that add 5 knots & a bit more lift from the hull...... Also it's got a relatively small diameter prop, with a good 1.5" gap from TDC to the underside of the plate. If I slide my old Yam K series over the splies that gap reduces to about 0.5".

My next test is to stick a bit of luminous tape round the front at cav plate height & take the pic again.

Would be good to see what your lower leg lower looks like out of the water (ooh err misses!) but it looks to me like the top fins rather than the actual anti can plate.

Was looking at mine yesterday - doing 24kts four up it looked like you could just see the Stingray almost at the surface when trimmed horizontal (i.e. mid way on the trim gauge)

I have to say, having now had a good few hours with the Stingray - I think its transformed the boat. Went from Poole to Durdle Dor yesterday - comfortable cruise all the way at between 20-25kts (just over 4K rpm) - took about an hour each way and used about 30 litres of petrol. (Stingray still firmly attached!!)
John

9D280 · 03 August 2011, 08:35

Yeah, I am plotting a cameara bracket on a pole with the camera using the "photograph yourself" timer to get it right down in fornt of the leg. I think there is a lot of downward spray there which is obscuring the view below, but looking at the spray patterns I'd say the spray plate is about the dist to the cav plate out the water.

There are a couple of pics here - it isn't mine, but has the same bottom end. The gap between the cav & spray plates is about 1.75".

http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/putting...ine-36576.html