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Old 24 July 2011, 05:18   #11
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+1 for John comments

Very impressed with overall increase in boat usability. It now starts to plane much earlier and the bow high attitude has been completely cured. The foil is still tight and in place. I did put some creep marks on just to keep an eye on any bolt movement but I think the thread glue has done a good job. If anything it feels like the boats energetic tendancy to jump around has been slightly damped down which suits me very well.

I guess its horses for courses and this foil for this (4S 50HP/4M shallow V hull) application works well.
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Old 25 July 2011, 10:59   #12
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been debating one of these myself for curing too many fat gits at the back of my back and trying to get onto the plane :-). boat thinks it is a nasa rocket briefly before going up and over so wondering about trying one of these to cure.

have you noticed any drop in top speed/fuel etc?

how exactly are they fitted? annode bolt?

cheers
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Old 26 July 2011, 04:53   #13
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been debating one of these myself for curing too many fat gits at the back of my back and trying to get onto the plane :-). boat thinks it is a nasa rocket briefly before going up and over so wondering about trying one of these to cure.

have you noticed any drop in top speed/fuel etc?

how exactly are they fitted? annode bolt?

cheers
very simple fitting - just slips over the anti can plate and then helps in place with 6 grub screws horizontally tightening to the sharp edge of the can plate - there is a gripper bar between the screws and the plate. You can see the 3 grub screw holes from the underneath shot attached.

Been out twice now and still firmly in place - still good for well over 30knots but haven't really maxed out - possibly a knot or two reduction not sure. Can't really tell on the fuel consumption yet but would expect that plane initialisation a lot less much much easier to maintain a just on the plane speed.
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Old 27 July 2011, 10:28   #14
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I guess the top speed / drag thing will depend where your cav plate sits relative to the water when on the plane..... I discovered last time out that mine is (just) clear of the water!
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Old 27 July 2011, 11:09   #15
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thanks for info, debating getting one even more now.

never been in a boat with one fitted to see any difference and 80 quid is a tank of fuel versus buying this!....decisions :-)

cheers
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Old 27 July 2011, 15:02   #16
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I guess the top speed / drag thing will depend where your cav plate sits relative to the water when on the plane..... I discovered last time out that mine is (just) clear of the water!
I would have thought that if the anti-cav plate was clear of the water - your prop will be cavitating or ventilating - not what you want! Maybe just on the surface bit definitely not clear of the water

Are you sure you don't mean the fins above the anti-cav plate?
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Old 01 August 2011, 04:56   #17
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It does let go at the slightest provovation........

Pic shows it at 20-ish knots. To put it in perspective there is a roughly 1.75" gap between the plate you can see & the cav' plate. Looking at the front of the leg, I estimate that is about 1.5" (having scaled it in the warmth & dry of the garage) so my suspicion is that add 5 knots & a bit more lift from the hull...... Also it's got a relatively small diameter prop, with a good 1.5" gap from TDC to the underside of the plate. If I slide my old Yam K series over the splies that gap reduces to about 0.5".

My next test is to stick a bit of luminous tape round the front at cav plate height & take the pic again.
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Old 02 August 2011, 05:21   #18
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It does let go at the slightest provovation........

Pic shows it at 20-ish knots. To put it in perspective there is a roughly 1.75" gap between the plate you can see & the cav' plate. Looking at the front of the leg, I estimate that is about 1.5" (having scaled it in the warmth & dry of the garage) so my suspicion is that add 5 knots & a bit more lift from the hull...... Also it's got a relatively small diameter prop, with a good 1.5" gap from TDC to the underside of the plate. If I slide my old Yam K series over the splies that gap reduces to about 0.5".

My next test is to stick a bit of luminous tape round the front at cav plate height & take the pic again.
Would be good to see what your lower leg lower looks like out of the water (ooh err misses!) but it looks to me like the top fins rather than the actual anti can plate.

Was looking at mine yesterday - doing 24kts four up it looked like you could just see the Stingray almost at the surface when trimmed horizontal (i.e. mid way on the trim gauge)

I have to say, having now had a good few hours with the Stingray - I think its transformed the boat. Went from Poole to Durdle Dor yesterday - comfortable cruise all the way at between 20-25kts (just over 4K rpm) - took about an hour each way and used about 30 litres of petrol. (Stingray still firmly attached!!)
John
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Old 03 August 2011, 04:35   #19
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Yeah, I am plotting a cameara bracket on a pole with the camera using the "photograph yourself" timer to get it right down in fornt of the leg. I think there is a lot of downward spray there which is obscuring the view below, but looking at the spray patterns I'd say the spray plate is about the dist to the cav plate out the water.

There are a couple of pics here - it isn't mine, but has the same bottom end. The gap between the cav & spray plates is about 1.75".

Putting Power tilt and trim on a Manual tilt Engine
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