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Old 29 July 2013, 10:33   #1
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Newbie Help - Using my Honwave

Hi there, first time poster and boater so please forgive any complete ignorance or stupidity in these questions!! I'd be really grateful if any of you could take the time to help me out.

I recently purchased a Honwave T-30AE, and have taken it out on the water a couple of times around the Christchurch area. The second time I launched at Wick Lane and learnt a lot navigating it through all the boat traffic. I have a 2.3hp Honda four stroke outboard which is owned by my landlord but he lets me use it.

I intend to use the Honwave as a small inshore fishing boat, and have some questions after my recent experiences:

1. I can see with the 2.3hp I am actually the slowest thing in the whole ocean, however I am a bit shocked at the prices for a 10hp Honda. What other makes are a bit more reasonable but still offer good reliability and where should I look for good second hand engine?

2. Would the 2.3hp be dangerous in the sense that I might not be able to steam against tidal flow? In particular I am thinking at the entrance to Christchurch harbour, but we seemed to get through it ok. What states of tide and timings of tide should I watch out for?

3. I seemed a bit stuck without a gps - we were just fishing blindly off Hengistbury Head and getting snagged all the time. I need one therefore, but I also would like a fishfinder. I can however only find one combo unit thats in my price range, (Humminbird Fishfinder 581i HD DI Combo). Would this be able to run in my boat on batteries, or would it need full rigging up to power? Would two seperate units be as economical? I have found the humminbird for 181.

4. We managed to snag the anchor against some rocks and had to cut it off after much heaving. Has anyone got any tips on freeing a stuck anchor.

5. Could anyone point me in the right direction concerning navigation charts for the area, possibly online?

Any further advice on boat ownership, good launching spots in the area, safety and fishing from a dinghy much appreciated.

Stuart
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Old 29 July 2013, 11:14   #2
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Hi Stuart - firstly welcome!

There are a few of us who know Chirstchurch well who I am sure will comment in due course.

where to start ?.....

Engine - walk up to Mike Vincent at South Coast Outboards in Bridge street or Simon at Ribs Marine . They can both be very bust at the mo - so bear with them and ask about 10hp ish motors and what they may have. Or do the ebay route etc

2.3 hp - You wont get in the run with that when its at full flow - you'd end up having to walk it round the end of Mudeford Spit - which is fine , but not a fun way to spend 20 minutes ! If you use it - only aim to get in or out an hour either side of either low or high water ( depending on which way your going!) . It can also get rather choppy at the entrance (read that as ' unpleasant' in a SIB) due to the waves bouncing back off the quay and the sandbank.

GPS etc I'll stay out of as I have no clue !

Sounds like you managed to find the line of rocks that run South out from Hengistbury head ( beerpan rocks from memory) - whcih catch lots of stuff - anchors, boats, gearboxes etc ) . Good fishing though by all accounts .

Again have a walk up bridge street and just after mike you'll find Christchurch boat shop ( tucked away on the left) - they will have a suitable chart , or something like http://www.visitmyharbour.com/

All in all its a great place to boat - but can be very busy with a small fast running entrance and lots of boats. But once you've mastered it its huge fun.

Happy to go for a spin out with you for a look around.

Pete
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Old 30 July 2013, 05:35   #3
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Thanks for the advice Peter, that's really helpful. So I would need to possibly drag the boat over the spit - didn't think of that, but some handy info if I get stuck!
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Old 30 July 2013, 07:19   #4
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Thanks for the advice Peter, that's really helpful. So I would need to possibly drag the boat over the spit - didn't think of that, but some handy info if I get stuck!
Not really over. More walk it round the end in the shallow water, one not though it shelves steeply on the spit side of the run...virtually 45' ..so don't try and wade out to far!
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Old 30 July 2013, 08:08   #5
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Thanks again.. Any tips on freeing an anchor Peter?
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Old 30 July 2013, 08:19   #6
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Thanks again.. Any tips on freeing an anchor Peter?
Try not to think about it ...or wait until low tide and go for a swim (I know a good diver who'll go get it if you know where it is ...but he'll cost more than a new one ! )

If you do a search on here there are several threads about 'technique'...
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Old 30 July 2013, 11:42   #7
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Thanks again.. Any tips on freeing an anchor Peter?
I'm not Peter, but this is what I do.

When weighing anchor (directions relative to a static position, i.e. the direction your boat sits at rest relative to the anchor):

1) Don't use the anchor rode to pull the boat to the anchor's location. Use the motor to idle forward as you take up the slack, until you are at or slightly beyond the hook-up site, then start pulling. Alternating pull and slack may "bounce" the hook loose.

2) If the anchor does not come loose, slack the line and motor a good distance further on ( like a hundred feet or so, if you have enough rode) and try again, which should pull the hook out more horizontally. Should that not work, do the same, but offset even with the site of the hookup, but off to the side. Then try the other side. You are trying to get different angles on the anchor to get it loose from whatever it's hung up on.

3) If all else fails, use the motor to try and break it loose (tie off the rode, and motor back to break it loose.) Use caution, as there will be a surge when something does give - make sure everyone is seated and braced for the movement. Be aware that you may well damage the anchor or break a line or shackle doing this. Use gradual power, not sudden throttle inputs, and watch the boat's reaction under power so as not to swamp the boat.

4) If nothing works, note the location, and be prepared to pay a diver to recover the anchor. Or eat the loss.


If you're anchoring in areas that are prone to snagging the hook, get an anchor with an eye forward of the flukes (or whatever it has to hold), and rig a trip line (enough strong line to reach the surface and a float.) It will help by allowing you to pull from the front of the anchor rather than levering from the end of the shank.

Luck;

jky
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Old 30 July 2013, 16:52   #8
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I've never lost one (I don't stop much....)
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Old 30 July 2013, 17:40   #9
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Anchor: All of what's already been said. Plus if you need to dump it and would be able to return at different tide etc attach a float to the top of the line (fender?)

If its choppy you can use the boat's bouyancy to your advantage, provided your tubes are properly pumped up.
- Get the boat over the anchor so the line is dropping dead vertical. (motor rather than pull the anchor line as mentioned above).
- Take all the slack out of the line.
- take a turn round the most secure fitting you have on the boat like a cleat. As the boat drops down a wave take in the slack so that in a 2ft wave you've probably just pulled in 2ft of rope when you get to the trough of the wave. As you hit the bottom cleat off the rope and use the bouyancy of the boat pulling up against the wave to pull the line.
- The Honwave has 43cm tubes and is 3m long, Volume of tube = 140litres. 1litre of air displaces 1litre of water which weighs 1kg. So will exert 10N of force. So an empty Honwave with no outboard or crew would exert a force of up to 1400N... A typical man can pul a 75lb object on a rope a pull of about 340N. So you have the potential to exert a much greater pull.
- No waves? You can create the same effect by bouncing the bow.
- BEWARE - if you really are snagged and the waves are big enough you can pull the bow under so you mustn't tie the rope off just belay it round something so that if you are about to flood the bow you can release it.
- Can take several bounces of pull like this to pull free.

Still stuck?
if you don't have a spare boat to hand Attach as big a float as you can find - all your fenders?
Take a seperate length of rope. Tie a bowline with the anchor line running through the bight (loop) of the bowline. Attach a heavy weight to the bight and drop it over the side keeping hold of the other end. You are aiming for the bight to get over the stem of the anchor. Now slowly pay out as much line as you've got so that the pull on this line will be as close to horizontal as possible. Travel in the direction opposite to the anchor was pulled when it was doing what you wanted it to. Now use the engine to slowly pull back against the anchor stem...
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Old 30 July 2013, 17:56   #10
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1. I can see with the 2.3hp I am actually the slowest thing in the whole ocean, however I am a bit shocked at the prices for a 10hp Honda. What other makes are a bit more reasonable but still offer good reliability and where should I look for good second hand engine?
The Tohatsu 9.8 (2 smoke) is considered the holygrail of SIB engines. Best compromise for weight power etc.

Quote:
3. I seemed a bit stuck without a gps - we were just fishing blindly off Hengistbury Head and getting snagged all the time.
How are you expecting the GPS to help with that?

Quote:
I need one therefore, but I also would like a fishfinder.
I think that'd help you not get snagged more than GPS. Not saying you don't need GPS but I think in terms of knowing whats under you a fishfinder will help far more.

Quote:
I can however only find one combo unit thats in my price range, (Humminbird Fishfinder 581i HD DI Combo). Would this be able to run in my boat on batteries, or would it need full rigging up to power?
You need a 12V power supply. That could be a 12V battery. Your little honda presumabaly has no power output so you cant recharge the battery. It draws 400mA. So you could probably use one of those mobile car starting packs: 12v 8Ah Car Battery Jump Starter Booster Air Compressor on eBay! (other models exist) and expect 12-14hours before you'd flatten it. Trouble is keeping all that sh*t dry as its not designed for marine use... If you had a feed from the engine you could re-charge it easy enough. You could probably use something like a burglar alarm battery too but they have relatively low capacity so maybe 3-4 hours.

Quote:
Any further advice on boat ownership, good launching spots in the area, safety and fishing from a dinghy much appreciated.
Do powerboat 2 course.
Have you got VHF radio?
Lifejackets
Kill cord.
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Old 30 July 2013, 18:52   #11
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Another way of freeing an anchor if its not for serious overnight anchoring is instead of shackling it to the normal hole at the top of anchor
shackle it to the bottom then run the chain (Tight)up the shank and fasten it with a tie wrap couple of turns will do ,
The main anchor / boat strain will be on the bottom shackle but with a bit of sideways tugging about the cable tie snaps& hopefully pulls the anchor out backwards ,
Though in most stuck anchor cases it's as was mentioned in the other posts usually its that the boat is not right above vertical or beyond the anchor position .
If there's any current of tide flow you may think your right above the anchor but the tide may be still putting a catenary in the rope especially if your pulling up to the anchor position by hand & not using the engine .
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Old 30 July 2013, 19:41   #12
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Tohatsu 9.8 HP, top of it's class light weight punchy engine, If 2 strokes still available much lighter & portable than same 4 strokes version.. Thumbs UP...

Happy Boating
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Old 31 July 2013, 00:05   #13
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A grapnel type anchor with bendable times is very useful in places an anchor might hang up. Make sure you have a way to store it safely onboard as you don't want a puncture.
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Old 17 August 2013, 12:37   #14
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Hi - thanks for all the replies to the above, they were really helpful and I'll remember all the information on anchors for next time.

Following the advice I went out and got a Tohatsu 9.8 hp 2 stroke engine, for an amazing price off a well known auction site. The best thing is it was used as an auxiliary, so is like new!

Again please forgive my ignorance, but I take it I now need a fuel tank and fuel line. Could anyone point me in the direction of the right ones that would fit my motor?

I need to mix the fuel too. Having never owned a 2 stroke anything, what type of oil should I be mixing with the petrol and in what ratio?

When using the engine in salt water do I need to flush it with fresh after every use? Any other tips on engine care appreciated.
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Old 17 August 2013, 12:38   #15
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Here's the motor, in pretty good nick
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Old 17 August 2013, 13:47   #16
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while fishing over rocks I dont use my anchor..... I use the orange plastic mesh onion sacks filled with large pebbles from the beach. This holds the boat without any issue, and on retreival, if it gets stuck the bag just tears leaving the stones on the bottom, and you free to pull in the bag. Next time (if it got caught) either use another bag, or get the needle and thread out and set to it "fisherman style". the third option would be get your mum to darn it for you!
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Old 17 August 2013, 13:54   #17
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The oil ratio for this engine is 50:1, use TCW3 oil.

Neat trick on the bag anchor friend.
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Old 17 August 2013, 14:10   #18
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Again please forgive my ignorance, but I take it I now need a fuel tank and fuel line. Could anyone point me in the direction of the right ones that would fit my motor?
Some of the really small OB's have an internal tank +/- the option of an external tank. In that resepect really small means <5HP. For the 9.8 you'll need a seperate tank which is good coz you don't want to be carrying the 9,8 into the petrol station and you will need some way to get fuel...

Portable plastic tanks come in roughly two designs: a 12l size and a 30l (someone will be along with other examples in a moment). A 12l is possible big enough and is light enough to carry. example 11.3L Outboard Motor Boat Fuel Tank with Gauge | eBay - shop around this was just one I found on the well known auction site you frequent and there may be better deals to be had.

You then need a pipe with a bulb on it to join that to your OB... fittings on the OB vary between some manufacturers. Searching that same site will reveal a complete tank and pipe for a Tohatsu.

Quote:
I need to mix the fuel too. Having never owned a 2 stroke anything, what type of oil should I be mixing with the petrol and in what ratio?
The official answer is that there are 2 stroke marine oils rather than motorbike. I gather the difference is in the cooling for a marine engine being water so the engine runs cooler. As you can imagine when you use marine in the name the price increases!! You need a TCW3 oil.

You need to use 50:1 mix. So If you know you've put 10litres in the tank you need to add 200ml of TCW3. Someone will be along to say thats wrong too!
Quote:
When using the engine in salt water do I need to flush it with fresh after every use? Any other tips on engine care appreciated.
If you possibly can you should. Using muffs or a bug barrel or bin.

Pull the fuel line off when you've finished rinsing with engine still running it will drain the fuel in the engine and stop it evapourating and going gummy inside the engine.

Either store tanks as full to the brim as possible or don't store at all, with the lid off to avoid condensation.

Carry spare fuel.
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Old 17 August 2013, 15:14   #19
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Here's the motor, in pretty good nick
Very clean. You know you have purchased a long shaft engine?
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Old 17 August 2013, 16:25   #20
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Yep that is definitely a long shaft I have a LS it will work but you may loose a little on top end speed and may get a bit of splash back because the leading edge of the leg will be deeper in the water and it is flat edge rather than tapered edge which you will see nearer the bottom of the leg so it doesn't slice through the water. If I was you and you have a bit of cashflow I would buy a short shaft then sell the long shaft afterwards. This way while your waiting for a short shaft to turn up on eBay or whatever you can still get out and have some fun.
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