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Old 30 July 2013, 18:52   #11
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Another way of freeing an anchor if its not for serious overnight anchoring is instead of shackling it to the normal hole at the top of anchor
shackle it to the bottom then run the chain (Tight)up the shank and fasten it with a tie wrap couple of turns will do ,
The main anchor / boat strain will be on the bottom shackle but with a bit of sideways tugging about the cable tie snaps& hopefully pulls the anchor out backwards ,
Though in most stuck anchor cases it's as was mentioned in the other posts usually its that the boat is not right above vertical or beyond the anchor position .
If there's any current of tide flow you may think your right above the anchor but the tide may be still putting a catenary in the rope especially if your pulling up to the anchor position by hand & not using the engine .
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Old 30 July 2013, 19:41   #12
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Tohatsu 9.8 HP, top of it's class light weight punchy engine, If 2 strokes still available much lighter & portable than same 4 strokes version.. Thumbs UP...

Happy Boating
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Old 31 July 2013, 00:05   #13
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A grapnel type anchor with bendable times is very useful in places an anchor might hang up. Make sure you have a way to store it safely onboard as you don't want a puncture.
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Old 17 August 2013, 12:37   #14
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Hi - thanks for all the replies to the above, they were really helpful and I'll remember all the information on anchors for next time.

Following the advice I went out and got a Tohatsu 9.8 hp 2 stroke engine, for an amazing price off a well known auction site. The best thing is it was used as an auxiliary, so is like new!

Again please forgive my ignorance, but I take it I now need a fuel tank and fuel line. Could anyone point me in the direction of the right ones that would fit my motor?

I need to mix the fuel too. Having never owned a 2 stroke anything, what type of oil should I be mixing with the petrol and in what ratio?

When using the engine in salt water do I need to flush it with fresh after every use? Any other tips on engine care appreciated.
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Old 17 August 2013, 12:38   #15
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Here's the motor, in pretty good nick
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Old 17 August 2013, 13:47   #16
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while fishing over rocks I dont use my anchor..... I use the orange plastic mesh onion sacks filled with large pebbles from the beach. This holds the boat without any issue, and on retreival, if it gets stuck the bag just tears leaving the stones on the bottom, and you free to pull in the bag. Next time (if it got caught) either use another bag, or get the needle and thread out and set to it "fisherman style". the third option would be get your mum to darn it for you!
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Old 17 August 2013, 13:54   #17
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The oil ratio for this engine is 50:1, use TCW3 oil.

Neat trick on the bag anchor friend.
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Old 17 August 2013, 14:10   #18
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Originally Posted by Stuzzer View Post
Again please forgive my ignorance, but I take it I now need a fuel tank and fuel line. Could anyone point me in the direction of the right ones that would fit my motor?
Some of the really small OB's have an internal tank +/- the option of an external tank. In that resepect really small means <5HP. For the 9.8 you'll need a seperate tank which is good coz you don't want to be carrying the 9,8 into the petrol station and you will need some way to get fuel...

Portable plastic tanks come in roughly two designs: a 12l size and a 30l (someone will be along with other examples in a moment). A 12l is possible big enough and is light enough to carry. example 11.3L Outboard Motor Boat Fuel Tank with Gauge | eBay - shop around this was just one I found on the well known auction site you frequent and there may be better deals to be had.

You then need a pipe with a bulb on it to join that to your OB... fittings on the OB vary between some manufacturers. Searching that same site will reveal a complete tank and pipe for a Tohatsu.

Quote:
I need to mix the fuel too. Having never owned a 2 stroke anything, what type of oil should I be mixing with the petrol and in what ratio?
The official answer is that there are 2 stroke marine oils rather than motorbike. I gather the difference is in the cooling for a marine engine being water so the engine runs cooler. As you can imagine when you use marine in the name the price increases!! You need a TCW3 oil.

You need to use 50:1 mix. So If you know you've put 10litres in the tank you need to add 200ml of TCW3. Someone will be along to say thats wrong too!
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When using the engine in salt water do I need to flush it with fresh after every use? Any other tips on engine care appreciated.
If you possibly can you should. Using muffs or a bug barrel or bin.

Pull the fuel line off when you've finished rinsing with engine still running it will drain the fuel in the engine and stop it evapourating and going gummy inside the engine.

Either store tanks as full to the brim as possible or don't store at all, with the lid off to avoid condensation.

Carry spare fuel.
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Old 17 August 2013, 15:14   #19
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Here's the motor, in pretty good nick
Very clean. You know you have purchased a long shaft engine?
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Old 17 August 2013, 16:25   #20
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Yep that is definitely a long shaft I have a LS it will work but you may loose a little on top end speed and may get a bit of splash back because the leading edge of the leg will be deeper in the water and it is flat edge rather than tapered edge which you will see nearer the bottom of the leg so it doesn't slice through the water. If I was you and you have a bit of cashflow I would buy a short shaft then sell the long shaft afterwards. This way while your waiting for a short shaft to turn up on eBay or whatever you can still get out and have some fun.
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