New to the Forum and some questions...

[BenSlammin]

New guy on board from California. Been doing as much homework as I can but still have some model specific questions, any insight is much appreciated!

I am a few days away from taking possession of a new Zodiac SeaRider 4.7 (2011 floor model). It has no console or bolster and I will be adding these once I bring it home. I am having trouble finding any specific dimensions of the hull (under the deck) though. I see in some very generalized pictures that there are air chambers under the deck but I can't find specific location or dimensions for my model.

I need to cut a few holes in the deck to through bolt the console and leaning post, but do not want to accidentally cut into the bulkhead between an air chamber and the flooding hull. Does any one have a fairly close estimate of where the aft and forward chambers begin/end?
-Side note: I ordered some Tempress 6" thread in deck plates to make access for fastening the console and bolster. They have an o-ring and claim to be weather tight, but should I be concerned about mounting them over the flooding hull portion of the deck? I'd hate to have water seeping up onto the deck while I'm out diving.

I plan to mount a console that is 24" wide and would prefer to offset it to the RH side of the deck. I will be using this as a dive boat and will typically be travelling with one other diver. I want to be to one side and leave room for the second person to lean up against the bolster. BUT, am I at risk of the boat riding goofy or chine walking when I am out solo?

The boat is getting a new ETEC 60, which does not come with a prop from the dealer. I really hope to get the right prop the first time. Any info on this engine coupled with this hull would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for reading and I hope to learn a lot from you guys!

Benny

[Max...]

Welcome! This is the place for SR info and experts who will be along shortly I'm sure.

[whisper]

Hey dude and welcome

A very cool rib you have there

[Poly]

Originally Posted by BenSlammin

The boat is getting a new ETEC 60, which does not come with a prop from the dealer.

really? has the makings a clever way to extract extra money from the customer for something the manuf provides...

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Poly

really? has the makings a clever way to extract extra money from the customer for something the manuf provides...

In the UK Etecs don't come with a "standard" prop. The rationale being that there's no such thing. When you buy an engine, it usually includes an allowance for a ally/stainless prop of your choice, depending on engine model.

[Mollers]

Hi Ben. Great choice!!

Prop choice is the eternal conundrum.

Our SR4 runs a stainless 14P, which gives a lot of pull out and grip, but loses some top speed.

I'd guess that you'd be looking at 15/16P depending on your requirements.

[jwalker]

Can't help you with the underdeck layout but mounting the consol to the right is probably a good idea. The torque reaction at the prop will cause the boat to lean left when under power. It's common to mount the engine with an offset to couner this but then the thrust line is also offset which is undesirable. Balancing the torque with boat load is a much better way to go imho. It's no good having a big bloke sitting on the left tube because there's more space there though!

Welcome.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by BenSlammin

-Side note: I ordered some Tempress 6" thread in deck plates to make access for fastening the console and bolster. They have an o-ring and claim to be weather tight, but should I be concerned about mounting them over the flooding hull portion of the deck? I'd hate to have water seeping up onto the deck while I'm out diving.

Won't be a huge issue either way. The tubes will make sure the boat stays where it's supposed to be (rather than visiting you on the dive site), and once you start moving, any water on deck should drain fairly quickly (assuming a decent deck drain setup.)

I plan to mount a console that is 24" wide and would prefer to offset it to the RH side of the deck. I will be using this as a dive boat and will typically be travelling with one other diver. I want to be to one side and leave room for the second person to lean up against the bolster. BUT, am I at risk of the boat riding goofy or chine walking when I am out solo?

That setup is similar to what I have (though my boat is likely a bit heavier than yours.) I've never noticed a problem with it (though when I get several people on board, and they all want to congregate on one side, the boat does ride low to one side. Not really sure why people do that, but there you go.)

The boat is getting a new ETEC 60, which does not come with a prop from the dealer. I really hope to get the right prop the first time. Any info on this engine coupled with this hull would be greatly appreciated!

Prop setup can be a challenge. IMO, it's largely a trial and error deal. See if you can find a supplier who has props you can borrow and test. You may want to find a couple of props, one for your "normal" load, and one a inch or two shorter in case you end up with more divers than normal (which ups the load factor considerably.)

Luck;

jky

[whisper]

You shouldn't cut or drill the deck on a Searider. I would look to glass something in above deck like how the transom stays are done.


www.customrib.co.uk

[BenSlammin]

Originally Posted by Poly

really? has the makings a clever way to extract extra money from the customer for something the manuf provides...

Ya I was a bit bent out of shape when I learned the prop wasn't included. Not the end of the world but it would be nice to have one included to use as a baseline, that way I can have SOMETHING to go off of when I go looking for a new prop. I will seek out a dealer that has a few props to loan out.

Originally Posted by whisper

You shouldn't cut or drill the deck on a Searider. I would look to glass something in above deck like how the transom stays are done.


Custom Rigid Inflatable Boats RIBs For Sale and Repairs

Is this due to the structural integrity loss when cutting a hole, or because it opens the chances of water seeping onto the deck? I'm sure it will quickly drain once moving, but I don't want to come back to inches of standing water every time I drop anchor for an hour or two


Thanks you all for the reply! Judging by the responses its probably unlikely to nail the right prop on the first go, so I will definitely try to get in with a dealer that has loaners to throw around.

As far as the access plates, I might look into something better than the thread in's, maybe more of a permanent plate the gets sealed and screwed down. This is hopefully not an area I will have to access ever again, unless I opt to change out seating/console. If I do cut holes I will definitely epoxy and possibly glass the exposed material.

Not sure how thick the deck is, but has anyone had success with epoxying in threaded inserts to mount the console or even the seat? Or is this just asking for trouble? I am torn between using an aluminum tube bolster like the Zodiac Rec Pro have, or the MILPRO box style with dry storage. I think the box style would be a good candidate for mounting to threaded inserts if the deck is thick enough to install them. I'll attach a pic of the stuff I plan to install, let me know what you think

I feel better about mounting the console off to the side now too, and have come up on a few pictures of similar dive boats set up the same way.

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by Poly

really? has the makings a clever way to extract extra money from the customer for something the manuf provides...

From memory, mine was included in the price, it just had to be chosen from the BRP range.

[office888]

I prefer the Rec Pro's leanpost. You can fit tanks underneath quite easily, then just run some bungees to secure them. On my personal boat, I'm probably going to go ahead and bolt on some XS-Scuba tank holders.