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Old 26 August 2012, 17:48   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Rossendale
Boat name: Anemone
Make: Maxx Pro
Length: 3m +
Engine: Mariner 6 outboard
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New to operating a RIB, 5 questions...

Hi all, fairly new to RIBS and bound to ask some daft questions, your experience and expertise is appreciated. I asked some of these questions in an earlier post but under a heading unlikely to get a respone, so I've done a new one, hope that's okay.

Question 1: I just bought a 3.8m Maxx Pro RIB from Dulas Boats in Amlwch on Angelesy (brokerage), but there is no manual. I'm not sure where to fit two of the planks that presumably reinforce the hull (below or above, what looks to me to be an inflatable keel tube which runs from bow to stern, is what I need to know). On top of that keel tube sits the inflatable floor.

Question 2: It came with a Mariner 6 2008 outboard. The toolkit that comes with new engines is missing. I cant find where to order a new one, any ideas and do I need to bother? The manual mentions emergency starting of the engine which requires the kit so I guess I need one.

Question 3: When launching a RIB with wheels at the stern, does it go stern or bow into the water first?

Question 4: The manual mentions connecting a hose to flush the engine after use in the sea. It mentions some kind of hose adapter that flushes the cooling system, but it is missing. I have searched the web, but am not sure where to get the hose adapter from and exactly what part I need, can you help? There are generic 'muff' kits but I dont know what will work. Does flushing using this method (which the manual says does not involve starting the engine) clear each part that needs flushing (the manual mentions the exhaust needs doing to but isnt clear whether the hose method works for this too) or do I still need to submerge the prop in fresh water and start the engine?

Question 5: I took the RIB out for the first time yesterday in the sea of Anglesey, but didnt manage to find a safe way of securing the engine to run fresh water through it to flush the system until 24 hours later - have I already created a salt build up in the engine? Someone said I could hold the motor in my hands with the prop in a bucket, but I declined on what I would call 'common sense' grounds.

Question 6: I rang the coatguard for advice, they said buy a flare and a VHF radio. Do I need a licence for the said radio? The radios are either 80 or 160 with the sales staff saying the dearer ones are better, I dont want to chat, just to call help if required, what would an experienced person buy in my shoes? I just want to go less than a mile from shore and catch mackerel! Is anyone selling a handheld VHF radio or where can I buy the cheapest practical one, please? I am low on cash after buying the RIB. Do I really need one?

Many thanks in anticipation of any help, and all the best.
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Old 26 August 2012, 19:04   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godi View Post
Question 1: I just bought a 3.8m Maxx Pro RIB from Dulas Boats in Amlwch on Angelesy (brokerage), but there is no manual. I'm not sure where to fit two of the planks that presumably reinforce the hull (below or above, what looks to me to be an inflatable keel tube which runs from bow to stern, is what I need to know). On top of that keel tube sits the inflatable floor.
Your boat is known in these parts as a "SIB" rather than a "RIB" (soft rather than rigid) - which whilst partly pedantry will also help you understand what others are talking about, and find specific relevant info on the forums.

Quote:
Question 2: It came with a Mariner 6 2008 outboard. The toolkit that comes with new engines is missing. I cant find where to order a new one, any ideas and do I need to bother? The manual mentions emergency starting of the engine which requires the kit so I guess I need one.
any mercury dealer will be able to supply - but its probably overpriced. Usually they contain (i) A screwdriver (with interchangable + and - ends); (ii) A socket for the spark plugs; (iii) the worlds nastiest pair of 'pliers'; (iv) a piece of rope with a small bit of plastic on it for pull starting! The rope is important but in theory any bit of rope tied round something like a screwdriver would do. You'll be able to pick up a spare at any good chandler / outboard dealer / ebay etc though.
Quote:
Question 3: When launching a RIB with wheels at the stern, does it go stern or bow into the water first?
convention is to launch stern first - which means you stay drier!
Quote:
Question 4: The manual mentions connecting a hose to flush the engine after use in the sea. It mentions some kind of hose adapter that flushes the cooling system, but it is missing. I have searched the web, but am not sure where to get the hose adapter from and exactly what part I need, can you help? There are generic 'muff' kits but I dont know what will work. Does flushing using this method (which the manual says does not involve starting the engine) clear each part that needs flushing (the manual mentions the exhaust needs doing to but isnt clear whether the hose method works for this too) or do I still need to submerge the prop in fresh water and start the engine?
you may find opinions are divided! Any merc dealer should be able to supply the relevant adapter for the hose. Alternatively either a large bucker or muffs will work to flush the engine.
Quote:
Question 5: I took the RIB out for the first time yesterday in the sea of Anglesey, but didnt manage to find a safe way of securing the engine to run fresh water through it to flush the system until 24 hours later - have I already created a salt build up in the engine? Someone said I could hold the motor in my hands with the prop in a bucket, but I declined on what I would call 'common sense' grounds.
I might have said, "Can you show me?" ! Many engines never get flushed and last for years. Once off is not going to kill it.
Quote:
Question 6: I rang the coatguard for advice,
that is pretty sensible. Its worth investing in an RYA PB2 course at some point to learn some skills and avoid some expensive mistakes etc. For general safety advice speak to RNLI for a "Sea Check" (its changed its name but someone there will know what you mean). You can expect helpful, non-patronising advice that is targeted to the type of boating you are planning.
Quote:
they said buy a flare and a VHF radio. Do I need a licence for the said radio?
technically yes (both you and the boat/radio) need 'licenses'. The boat version comes from ofcom and is free on their website! The operators license comes from the RYA and will cost about 100ish including the course. If you only use it in an emergency then a license may technically not be required - and certainly nobody is likely to complain. However you don't really want the first time you use a VHF to be the middle of a Mayday call. Where budgets are tight it would not be uncommon for someone to buy the radio and do the training later.

Quote:
The radios are either 80 or 160 with the sales staff saying the dearer ones are better, I dont want to chat, just to call help if required, what would an experienced person buy in my shoes?
possibly neither! Do a search for "which handheld VHF" or similar and you will find various discussions. The general advice is go for Standard Horizon or Icom for robustness and reliability. The Standard Horizons are usually a little bit cheaper for similar spec. The SH280E (around 100) would be fine - the only obvious downside over the next spec up being it doesn't float (so tie it to your lifejacket). If you want to splash the cash and improve safety then a handheld DSC version (your radio course will explain all) would give you 'red button distress call' and 'GPS' functionality for about double the cost of a standard hand held.

Quote:
Do I really need one?
Difficult question to answer. 30 yrs ago someone in your position would almost certainly not have had one; and most of them survived! If you put your mobile phone in a waterproof case then you would at least be better equipped - but mobile coverage at sea can be very unreliable. If I was going out without a radio I would definitely want want to ensure (i) everything was in absolute perfect order so the likihood of a problem was very low; (ii) that I had otherways of getting help - e.g. several flares (not just 1); (iii) that someone on shore knew where I was going and how long I would be - with a clear brief to call the CG if I was at all late; (iv) that I had an alternative way to get to safety and/or anchor if the engine failed (bear in mind that you may be out of anchoring depth) and a tide or wind may make rowing impossible! (v) that I was equipped for a long delay on the water (suitable clothing for being out for many hours) and preferably clothed so that if I ended up in the water I might survive long enough to be found (flotation suit / dry suit / wetsuit etc).
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Old 27 August 2012, 04:52   #3
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Country: UK - England
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Thanks Poly

Cheers Poly, I really appreciate the time you took to reply to my questions, really informative and very helpful! So I have a SIB and not a RIB! Thanks again
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Old 27 August 2012, 04:59   #4
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I really would recommend an RYA powerboat level 2 course. It's well worth the money, as Poly has said, and will explain all of the above questions. Better to spend 200 doing that now and knowing what you're doing than spending the same money (or more!) on repairing your boat as a result of a mistake that would otherwise have been averted with a bit of training :-)
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Old 27 August 2012, 05:08   #5
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Thanks Tim M, I'll look into it.
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Old 27 August 2012, 16:35   #6
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Godi, it's also worth recommending that you do your RYA Powerboat level 2 (or National Powerboat Certificate as it's now known) at a coastal (tidal) centre.

I don't live far from you, and did my PB2 at Plas Menai near Caernarfon, but I'd also recommend Dave Mallett at Wavelength Training, up in Fleetwood. I did my VHF course with him, and would definately recommend him!
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Old 27 August 2012, 16:48   #7
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Country: UK - England
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Thanks Tim, Fleetwood is close, but the Menai Strait is my favourite place in the world so I'll check it out.
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Old 28 August 2012, 15:14   #8
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DM on here does training over that neck of the woods, might be worth a PM.
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