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Old 25 July 2012, 19:41   #21
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The perished rubber gaiter on the steering ram can be purchased here (scroll down): Marine/boat steering components from Anglesey Marine Supplies.

As suggested by BumbleAbout the other rubber gaiter for the throttle cables - can be sourced from Ribcraft direct. Use a little grease (on the inside of the grommet) when hauling the cables through it. It has a recess on it and fits snugly on the side of the console to provide a watertight seal.

I'd fill the holes on the console once you've installed your new kit. Any water ingress is bad news for electrics.
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Old 26 July 2012, 04:43   #22
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Just as Dave said - a spacer is the easy answer !

There are Mariner/ Quicksilver ready drilled spacers available (from memory we have 3 in place) or they are easy to make from something like a plastic kitchen chopping board (just use the existing spacer as a template). On many installations the bolts are already long enough to accomodate this modification.

TurboDiesel on this forum can supply most Mariner/Mercury/Quicksilver parts with a discount for forum members - so it's worth sending him a PM (no connections to the company apart from being a happy customer).
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Old 26 July 2012, 17:08   #23
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Welcome!

(i) its ugly which suggests it wasn't done by someone who knew what they were doing or who was in a rush. However if you can't get any flex or movement it is probably OK.
Thats probably the worst advice you given on here unless anyone knows otherwise. Just because it doesn't move or flex doesn't mean its ok. I should know!
I thought mine was solid but a rather heavy landing and 15 stone of prime Yorkshire beef trying to grip it with his legs proved too much and it all went tits up...
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Old 28 July 2012, 14:28   #24
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15 stone of prime Yorkshire pudding
There, fixed that for ya Chewy
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Old 28 July 2012, 16:11   #25
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There, fixed that for ya Chewy
Cheers flower, reminds me Sunday dinner tomorrow!
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Old 05 August 2012, 10:09   #26
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Thats probably the worst advice you given on here unless anyone knows otherwise. Just because it doesn't move or flex doesn't mean its ok. I should know!
I thought mine was solid but a rather heavy landing and 15 stone of prime Yorkshire beef trying to grip it with his legs proved too much and it all went tits up...
I went out on my first outing on Southampton water yesterday. All was fine until I hit a larger wave and the passenger jockey seat failed and broke free from the mounting . I have removed the pod and tidied up the remains of glass fiber (photos below). If I was to take off the deck paint and glass it down to a clean deck surface would this suffice, or is a professional approach recommended (cost wise)? I may end up changing the position and adding another seat pod to create a side by side position, it looks very tight but I have seen another RC 4.8 set up like that. Ideally I would like to get a OEM factory finish (see last photo). Cheers again.








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Old 05 August 2012, 10:10   #27
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Originally Posted by BumbleAbout View Post
Just as Dave said - a spacer is the easy answer !

There are Mariner/ Quicksilver ready drilled spacers available (from memory we have 3 in place) or they are easy to make from something like a plastic kitchen chopping board (just use the existing spacer as a template). On many installations the bolts are already long enough to accomodate this modification.

TurboDiesel on this forum can supply most Mariner/Mercury/Quicksilver parts with a discount for forum members - so it's worth sending him a PM (no connections to the company apart from being a happy customer).
Thanks for the chopping board tip, its all sorted and has made a huge difference
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Old 06 August 2012, 11:04   #28
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Ouch - looks like chewing gum was used to fix the rear seat !
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