New 'old' RIB - Page 2

Rogue Wave · 12 December 2003, 16:03

Quote:

Originally posted by simmons0

Oh yer, and nobody use Tameside marine. The Director is a very nice chap who knows his stuff but none of his workers have a clue!

Yes I have met the nobber that does there deliveries for them a few times and he is Clueless, he can't even get it together to put petrol in a boat. I think he does the odd job for Jahno enterprises also

DM · 12 December 2003, 16:30

Quote:

Originally posted by Rogue Wave
Yes I have met the nobber that does there deliveries for them a few times and he is Clueless,

Yep, I know the slaphead as well. I believe he delivered a Searay 28' Sportscruiser from Poole to Bassetts Pole, Birmingham, yesterday. The trouble was that it should have gone to Essex.

DM

whitingiom · 12 December 2003, 16:41

I've got a 70 Johnson VRO - 1988 model

Goes beautifully, but do disconnect the VRO if it's an old one and 'mix' your 2 stroke oil in your unleaded. (100-1)

Plenty of blue smoke on start up but it soon settles down to a nice idle.

Only issue I've had with mine is make sure you give it a turn each week or you may find the steering sticks. Some nice new grease seems to have sorted it out.

Jon

Hightower · 12 December 2003, 16:54

Got myself a genuine Yamaha Engine Manual from Crayside Marine and I'm very happy with it! Haven't got any probs with the motor, I just wanted it just in case and it's got loads of info on factory set specs. that might come in useful.

They've got some Jonson ones, perhaps one of these would help you solve your PTT probs and any other probs in the future.

www.craysidemarine.co.uk

Go to Specials and click on Bargains and look for Manuals.

Good luck and Welcome to the Forum

Andy

Suzuki416 · 12 December 2003, 21:42

Yep,

The manual for the engine arrived this morning!

It is a 1986 VRO - disconected - I'm running a mix of 50/1!

The PT&T works fine using the switch 'on the engine' & the remote switch is now working fine. I think that the cabling may need checking - tomorrow.

The 'good' hub is now off, & the bearings looked in fair condition although I didn't even need a socket to undo the castle-ated nut! which is not usually good news.
There is a large trailer centre near me so I'll be heading there also

The tubes go from hard to soft ish in 5 hrs...
haven't yet checked the valves! will tip a load of water over it tomorrow if him upstairs stop pissing on it!

Pete

jwalker · 12 December 2003, 23:39

Quote:

Originally posted by Suzuki416

The 'good' hub is now off, & the bearings looked in fair condition although I didn't even need a socket to undo the castle-ated nut! which is not usually good news.

Pete

That will be the case for trailer hubs with taper roller bearings. The system is very iffy and wouldn't be allowed on a car. The washer, which provides the end thrust against the bearing, does not have any form of key and it is free to rotate. Very bad practice. The wheel(s) on the near side turn so as to undo the castellated nut because the washer is free to spin. The split pin is, therefore, load bearing rather than just a locking mechanism. The bearings will need an end clearance of about 4 thou. The only way to provide this is to have the nut loose! On the other side, the rotation attempts to tighten the bearings. It's all very dodgy.
If you are a practical person, you could make up a couple of washers with a flat on the inside hole and file a corresponding flat on the thread section of the stub axle. This will prevent any rotational force on the nut.
Trailers often appear to loose wheels. When was the last time you saw a car wheel passing you? Although trailer wheels get a dunking, I believe the keying is the critical factor.

jwalker · 12 December 2003, 23:46

Quote:

Originally posted by MeMe
QUOTE Nonsense. Provided your brain and hands work, it's easy peasy.QUOTE

Thanks for those remarks JW, very constructive.

Thanks, I'm pleased you appreciated it.

I was a bit abrupt. Apologies for that, Meme.

tinker · 15 December 2003, 08:24

hi,
check these hubs dont know if there the right ones but they are cheap
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...category=36632

and if there not the ones how about
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...category=36632

Suzuki416 · 15 December 2003, 13:56

I've now got the bearings all sorted & the wheels are back on the trailer.
There is damage to 1 of the hubs (was quoted £120! today for a new hub) but as the damage is not in a load area, I will give a quick test this weekend & see if the hub gets hot. It does spin fine though so the only potential problem is that the water washes the grease out! Won't know until I try.

Thanks for the ebay info, will send measurements tonight to see if they will fit.

The trailer had on the nearside a 175 x 14 & offside 165 x 13 inch wheels. These were changed to 3 x 165 x 13 (£25) from a Skoda so I now have a spare wheel also!

The wiring on this boat is something to see! NOT!

The more I check the centre consul the more wires I pull out to rewire!

Oh, the PT&T is now NOT working at all - suspect my removing wires had something to do with that though.

I also need to find out how big the fuel tank is?

I need to find the puncture / s.

Finish wiring up the GPS & Fishfinder.

Fit a throttle spring etc, etc!!

Pete7 · 15 December 2003, 15:26

Take your time and make a good job of it, bouncying around in a lumpy sea is not the time to wish you had sorted the wiring out properly. Daniel did some pics recently of his wiring and it looked superb, better than many of the top manufaturers.

Final thought "KISS" (Keep it simple stupid) really does apply to ribs. the greater the complication the more there is to go wrong,

You will know this boat intermately by spring and problems will be simple to fix. Post some pics as you are doing it so we can all go ooh, arr and hmm.

Regards

Peter

simmons0 · 15 December 2003, 15:49

Quote:

I also need to find out how big the fuel tank is?

Fill it ful of fuel the first time you use it and read off the pump.
No other way to do it really.