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Old 23 February 2013, 15:52   #11
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Looking at the pics, someone has fitted a green facing forwards (kinda) and I presume a "matching" red facing backwards (kinda). An @rse of a mess.

Whisper is correct - get two 180 degree whites or wig that tab off the top of the A-frame and fit a single 360 degree white (proper job). Green and red to the sides of the A-frame.

(Tidy looking RIB otherwise!)
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Old 23 February 2013, 19:33   #12
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I think there is a ???90degree (maybe 120degree) red and green on the front of the tab.

Depending how they mount (as whisper says - you need the boat there to look) they might mount on the side of the frames. Then I'd want to move the tab to be horizontal and stick an all round white on it.

I wouldn't put the white directly on top of the coloured as it will bleach the colour out to the distant viewer...

Never had to feed a wire down an a-frame but assuming the tube is hollow inside it *should* be straighforward for the side ones. Drill the hole in the tube at light level. Drill the exit hole at the base and feed some U shaped thin stiff wire into the bottom hole. Push enough in that the wire will go round the inner circumfrance of the tube. Mark a length of fishing line with the distance between the two holes. Put the fishing line with a weight on it into the hole and let it run past the mark. Assuming gravity is working (!!) your weight is below the wire U - pull the both sides of the U and you should get the fishing line... use the line to feed the wire.

Top wire will be harder, ideally use the green red wire already there to do the job. Stiff wire needed to push along the horizontal (or maybe the weight with a good tilt on the boat to the appropriate side). Then use the hole for the side light as an access point to do the vertical.

Wire size - depends on what light you fit... if its LED it could be a lot thinner... Several factors will affect your choice of wire thickness:

Current Draw. Most nav lights are 10W bulbs, which allowing for a low battery would draw about 1amp. For safety you might assume 1.5amps.

Cable length. You get voltage drop over wires which is more pronounced at lower voltages (i.e. 12V systems). You need to look at the cable run. Where is the battery, the switch and the ducting route. I take it thats a 6m RIB? So 5m from console to the frame, alow a 1m from battery to console? and then 2m up the frame? Thats 16 there and back ~ 55ft.

Is each bulb running its own wire to the battery and back or will you run say to the A Frame and then split the port & startboard (you never need to switch red on without green) so in effect you are running 20W? Or run all 3 (red, white & green) back through the one ground wire - 30W. That is still only 3amps.

Size of fuse? I'll guess the smallest fuse you have is about 5amps. So the wire needs to run 5amps otherwise the wire melts before the fuse blows if you have a fault!

So if we assume a current draw of 1.5amps/bulb and a cable run of 55ft, ( Stealth 316 - Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator ) Most people say you should aim for <2-3% voltage loss (= 0.36V), not sure that for incandescant bulbs they are that fussy but you are probably looking at a 16 AWG (multistrand) wire for a single bulb or 12 AWG for all three using the one wire. A 12 AWG wire should be OK with a 5amp load on it so a 5amp fuse would be OK, and I think most 16G wire would be OK at 5amp too but worth checking when buying that its OK or use a smaller fuse.
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Old 24 February 2013, 00:39   #13
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You could just leave the Red/Green bi- light as it is and mount an All around White light above it on a short mast though the rule is that it has to be at least 1 metre above it .

Then If you put a separate switch on the white you could then switch off the Red/Green & use the All around white just on its own as an Anchor light .

Even if you do away with the Bi- light & mount 2 seperate lights on the outer A frame you will still need a White at least 1metre above , either an all around or a forward facing ( Steaming ) one then you would need a seperate white (sternlight) too.
you would still need an All around White for use as an anchor light so you might as well just fit an All around white in the first place .

For the cable use (tinned )wire otherwise normal copper wire will just corrode away within a few years .

Also using the Bi light which will usually just have a single bulb does away with using up more electrical power than if you have 2 seperate nav lights .
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Old 24 February 2013, 04:14   #14
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must say its one best sea rider ive seen
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Old 24 February 2013, 05:35   #15
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Hi
I take it there is power to the lights already there?

If so just underneath them on the A frame plate there are two sets of holes. I'd be looking at adding a small plate and using these mounts to hold the red and green lights - or you may find some that fit the holes already. May have to move the flag though. I'd then put the flag into the middle of the plate and mount a single white on the end of the flag - can't see a flag at night so can remove when needed. May not quite be 1m but won't be far off.

Then add a switch unit at the back by the lights so you can pick navs or white.

If you don't have a power supply to the navs already there you can do as above and feed through, cheat and cable tie on the back of the frame - or use battery powered lights if you don't intend on using them often.
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Old 24 February 2013, 05:46   #16
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Originally Posted by falcon0310 View Post
must say its one best sea rider ive seen
I don't think it is a searider, is it an Avon 560?
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Old 24 February 2013, 07:33   #17
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Old 24 February 2013, 13:06   #18
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I don't think it is a searider, is it an Avon 560?
Thanks for the input guys! I have ordered some sure signal 25s thought about removing the cleats and using those plates but I think once the ribs up on the plane they will be too low and obscured! Also ordered two mounting brackets (can always return them if they not needed)

What I think I'm going to do is move port and starboard out to each side of the a-frame (top) and then put an all round white in the middle not sure I will have 1m between port and starboard lights but at least it will be more correct... Will think about putting the all round white on a separate switch so it can also be used as an anchor light!

Also bought myself a Garmin gpsmap 551s + transom mount transducer! With the cover I'm having made up that's my bonus gone! These ribs can become expensive toys


An avon adventurer.. 560 (not very popular on here it seems!)
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Old 24 February 2013, 13:09   #19
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Thanks for the input guys! I have ordered some sure signal 25s thought about removing the cleats and using those plates but I think once the ribs up on the plane they will be too low and obscured! Also ordered two mounting brackets (can always return them if they not needed)

What I think I'm going to do is move port and starboard out to each side of the a-frame (top) and then put an all round white in the middle not sure I will have 1m between port and starboard lights but at least it will be more correct... Will think about putting the all round white on a separate switch so it can also be used as an anchor light!

Also bought myself a Garmin gpsmap 551s + transom mount transducer! With the cover I'm having made up that's my bonus gone! These ribs can become expensive toys

An avon adventurer.. 560 (not very popular on here it seems!)
1m between all round white and port and starboard!

Hopefully if the gear arrives by the weekend I can fit my chart plotter, take her out for a test run on saturday and then think about the lights on Sunday
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Old 24 February 2013, 13:12   #20
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Don't forget the pics once you've played
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