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Old 06 August 2010, 08:38   #11
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Thanks guys - I may as well post a few questions while you experts are here!

Call me Mr Picky but the boat is minty but just want to tidy up a couple of bits:

1. The bolt on the bow reinforcement - can this be replaced - the 'inside' must be buried within the tube/hull junction and looks totally inaccessible - it will shear off for sure so I won't touch it probably...

2. On the strakes - want to glue these down just where a few inches are loose - Matt gave me an original repair kit with P2990 adhesive - is this a contact adhesive? Any tips for use please?

3. On the other hand I need to remove this bag which simply looks bonded to the hull (need to make a bow locker). What's the best way to break the bond without any damage to hull finish/bag so it is reversible?

4. Last one! Have no idea on trailer set-up - but the rollers seem to be supporting just the apex of the Vee hull - what's the guidance on this - thinking I may be able to move them out so further up the sides and this may gain me an inch or so of height clearance and support the hull better?

Thanks all for your help.
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Old 06 August 2010, 08:55   #12
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Trailered home lovely Matt but my pesky garage door is 1" too low so had to take the A frame out.
Let air out of the wheels and lift the drawbar up. Job done!

Cracking boat by the way.
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Old 06 August 2010, 09:05   #13
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the most desirable 4.7 I've seen -
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Old 06 August 2010, 09:26   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max... View Post
1. The bolt on the bow reinforcement - can this be replaced - the 'inside' must be buried within the tube/hull junction and looks totally inaccessible - it will shear off for sure so I won't touch it probably...
It'll shear judging by the condition of it. I'd leave well alone, otherwise you'll need to drill out the remainder. Looks like a galvanised bolt that's taken a knock at some point.

Quote:
2. On the strakes - want to glue these down just where a few inches are loose - Matt gave me an original repair kit with P2990 adhesive - is this a contact adhesive? Any tips for use please?
Yes P2990 is a 2-part contact adhisive. Normally needs 2 coats (apply second one as the first one loses tack). Preparation is key. After sanding surfaces to be glued - degrease area with solvent. http://www.polymarineshop.com/adhesi...container.html

Quote:
3. On the other hand I need to remove this bag which simply looks bonded to the hull (need to make a bow locker). What's the best way to break the bond without any damage to hull finish/bag so it is reversible?
You might be able to soften the adhesive using a hot air gun. For obvious reasons - care is required and I would shield the tube from heat before starting. Any adhesive residue left on the hull may need to be sanded off and new flowcoat applied to the area.

Quote:
4. Last one! Have no idea on trailer set-up - but the rollers seem to be supporting just the apex of the Vee hull - what's the guidance on this - thinking I may be able to move them out so further up the sides and this may gain me an inch or so of height clearance and support the hull better?
In order to adjust properly - take the boat to a local slipway, launch, adjust rollers and then retrieve. You can add hull rollers specifically for the keel which means the rollers can move further up the sides onto the next sprayrail, distributing the weight better.
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Old 06 August 2010, 10:28   #15
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Jealous jealous jealous jealous!!!!!!!!! Nice boat. SR4.7 was my other option, but couldn't find one

Even if you don't get the PB2 before the SR gathering there will be enough ribnutters around to help you out - one of the good things about cruising in company.

As for the garage door- lift the drawbar, that's what the jockey wheel is for! (somewhere I think does slightly longer post jockeys (if the one you have isn't quite long enough), just can't think wherw I saw them.... possibly an Ifor Williams dealer? )
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Old 06 August 2010, 11:35   #16
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I will try that - I think we lifted it as much as we dare to try clearing the door - big slope leading up to the garage which makes it v. tricky to manouvere by hand. A couple of feet in from the jockey is a bracket on the draw bar - not sure what it's for but fitting a second jockey there may do the trick and enable a higher lift due to the angle.

Spartacus - thanks for the input, what's on the other side of that bolt do you know - a captive nut/plate??

Looking again at the rollers - I can shoulder it up each side at a time and prop it to adjust the rollers but the rear one (with most of the weight) will only go out another inch or two anyway. The front ones have more like 8". How do other people set their trailers?

If anyone knows anymore about this build with the foam collar and tube inside I'd be interested. As far as I can see there are only two valves so presumably just two chambers?
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Old 06 August 2010, 12:47   #17
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hi Max, lovely pictures, hey found that info on the tubes www.zodiacmilpro.com
its the new system called durarib series 2.

or the info on below link at the bottom section


http://www.zodiacmilpro.com/news/new...spring2003.pdf

ref the height, if you were place the rollers wider it should drop down 2-3 inches for you!! hopefully

ref the bolt, it could be trouble trying to remove it, i THINK there is a metal threaded collar inside the fibreglass about a inch long. i removed one once and wasnt that tight, you could have a tiny go at it and fingers crossed.

Zodiac of North America
540 Thompson Creek Road
Stevensville, MD 21666
Tech Talk:
The Scoop on Foam
Sometimes it’s difficult to decide which Zodiac collar
system – foam or air – is best for specific mission
needs. The following information is presented to help
you make informed decisions.
Q: What is the science behind foam-filled buoyancy
tubes?
A: First of all, foam collar boats are extremely tough and
durable. Zodiac’s new DuraRib II foam collar uses either
a tough polyurethane outer coating or neoprene
hypalon, a hollow block of flexible closed-cell foam, and
an inner inflatable bladder. Because of this durable
design, it would be nearly impossible to severely
damage the tubes with punctures or air leaks. However,
in order to have a high-performance boat, the quality of
the foam must be well-adapted to its intended use.
Therefore, Zodiac has designed its foam collar systems
with these characteristics:
• Closed cell
• Non-reticulation foam (i.e., doesn’t shrink, as most
foams do)
• Excellent adhesion qualities
• Maintains its original integrity in extreme cold and
heat (i.e., doesn’t crumble under pressure)
• Excellent tolerance to hydrocarbons, mild acids,
salt water, solvents, and UV spectrum.
There is more than meets the eye in designing a
durable foam tube. Unfortunately, there are many foam
collar boats out there that don’t meet the above
characteristics!
Q: When is foam advantageous?
A: Boats with foam-filled buoyancy tubes are
advantageous under a number of circumstances. The
rugged, durable design of foam collar boats makes
them ideally suited for tougher missions. For example,
foam collar boats can be used as “pushers” for other
boats, and they are also good choices for missions
that frequently involve coming alongside other
boats for boarding. In addition, foam collar boats
better endure extreme cold and hot weather
conditions because the foam does not shrink or
expand in the same manner as air buoyancy tubes.
Furthermore, foam collar boats can be deployed at
a moment’s notice, as they don’t require topping up
the air.
Q: If storage or weight limitations are important
considerations, is foam the right way to go?
A: Unlike fully inflatable boats, foam collar boats
obviously cannot be deflated and folded up for
minimal storage. Therefore, if you have tight
storage restrictions, then a collapsible inflatable
collar system may be a more practical choice.
Another item to consider is your weight limitation.
Foam collar boats, although much lighter than
traditional hard shell boats, are still somewhat
heavier than boats with inflatable collar systems.
However, when compared with traditional hard
shell boats, foam collar boats have many
advantages. They are:
• significantly lighter which means they are easier
on your davits
• more buoyant so they can carry a higher payload
• safer to operate as they do not sink when
swamped with water
• more deck space due to the fact that their tubes
are “half-moon shaped”
Q: Do foam collar systems share most of the
advantages of inflatable collar systems?
A: The short answer – Yes. The inflatable bladder
inside the foam collar serves as a tensioning
element for the collar. Both the inflatable bladder
and the foam collar are designed to produce a
shock-absorbing effect when the boat re-enters the
water in choppy seas. It also provides superb
reserve buoyancy and stability, remains relatively
light and highly portable, and is light enough to
prevent serious injury to persons unlucky enough to
come into violent contact with it. In addition, the
foam collar tubes can be removed for air transport.



interesting reading!!
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Old 06 August 2010, 13:27   #18
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Matt h - do you have an aversion to owning a boat for more than a month at a time?
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Old 06 August 2010, 14:17   #19
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Thanks Matt, great stuff. I think I'll leave that bolt alone (for now anyway!) - been there many a time and it always ends in tears...

Just been out and adjusted the rollers - shouldered it and moved out one set at a time - my back is fooked now but I'm bit happier that the load is spread out more - still got a few rollers on chines but it's unavoidable.
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Old 06 August 2010, 14:44   #20
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Just been out and adjusted the rollers - shouldered it and moved out one set at a time - my back is fooked now
Don't you have a trolley jack and a piece of timber?
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