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Old 20 October 2013, 19:16   #21
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Outside Biff.. i gotta do something,, its undrivable as it is in the current position
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Old 20 October 2013, 19:16   #22
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The deck is about 15mm ish. Just don't like the consequences if they don't hold.
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Old 20 October 2013, 19:18   #23
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If internal lip you could use Brolley or toggle anchors,,
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Old 20 October 2013, 19:19   #24
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Outside Biff.. i gotta do something,, its undrivable as it is in the current position
Can't you glass it in. .
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Old 20 October 2013, 19:23   #25
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I could do, but wanted to keep it original. also the consols are so small and space being limited , i may need to tilt it forward to get to tops of fuel tanks and Fuel filters etc..

If i were gonna go down the route of glassing it in, i would probally change the consol to a double as that would involve re flowing the deck which is edging on a major project and great expense etc
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Old 20 October 2013, 19:25   #26
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There's not much to glass in on a 4.7 console, they are quite weak to be honest.

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Old 20 October 2013, 19:34   #27
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You could make a stainless frame about 75 mm wide that fits under the flange. You can bond and multiple screw that to the floor and have the fixings on that. If you use 3 mm stainless that will be the only height you will gain. Easy enough to do. Could weld about 10 stud around it and have dome nuts and penny washers showing around flange. Take it off when you like but you'll never rip it off the floor again
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Old 20 October 2013, 20:06   #28
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You could make a stainless frame about 75 mm wide that fits under the flange. You can bond and multiple screw that to the floor and have the fixings on that. If you use 3 mm stainless that will be the only height you will gain. Easy enough to do. Could weld about 10 stud around it and have dome nuts and penny washers showing around flange. Take it off when you like but you'll never rip it off the floor again
I'm probably a bit out of touch, but all the rivnuts I've ever used have been on relatively thin plate, upto around 1/8" (3mm for anyone under 50 ) so not sure how they would hold on a deck

I think I would go with either Nugent or Biffers idea
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Old 20 October 2013, 20:15   #29
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You could make a stainless frame about 75 mm wide that fits under the flange. You can bond and multiple screw that to the floor and have the fixings on that. If you use 3 mm stainless that will be the only height you will gain. Easy enough to do. Could weld about 10 stud around it and have dome nuts and penny washers showing around flange. Take it off when you like but you'll never rip it off the floor again
Gotcha.. thats the way to go go.. or even above the flange have an additional bar to wrap around the foot of the grp. to match up with the studs, would look better than penny washers poss..
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Old 20 October 2013, 20:28   #30
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Gotcha.. thats the way to go go.. or even above the flange have an additional bar to wrap around the foot of the grp. to match up with the studs, would look better than penny washers poss..
That's what my old one had, much better this way
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Old 20 October 2013, 20:35   #31
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Gotcha.. thats the way to go go.. or even above the flange have an additional bar to wrap around the foot of the grp. to match up with the studs, would look better than penny washers poss..
+1 would look much much better than penny washers and give you a larger area to fasten to deck, deffo the way to go
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Old 20 October 2013, 20:42   #32
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If I remember right it had a strip of rubber under the bar too
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Old 20 October 2013, 20:56   #33
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RIBase
did not must rib have a problem where big heads were used to hold the jockey in place in the RI 2013.
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Old 20 October 2013, 21:02   #34
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did not must rib have a problem where big heads were used to hold the jockey in place in the RI 2013.
but flipper wouldn't ever over stress anything ...would he ?
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Old 21 October 2013, 07:03   #35
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Ha ha i will try harder next time!
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