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Old 08 February 2015, 18:31   #1
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Mercury Ocean Runner 430 Build Thread

Hi everyone,

I'll try to use this thread to document my progress, and more importantly, ask for help.

Here's what I am starting with, a new Mercury Ocean Runner 430 hull:



and build it into something like this:




I've never done anything like this before. The closest thing I have done that could be remotely called DIY is to change a flat tire. So it would be, eh, fun.

Let the journey begin.
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Old 08 February 2015, 18:48   #2
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Seat installation

The boat hasn't arrived yet, so I am just buying parts and planning.

I don't like the look of the standard seat from Mercury. Also it's too big and wastes a lot of deck space.





The boat will be mainly used for fishing, so I am thinking of getting a cooler seat instead. The problem is the part of the deck that's flat is too narrow. The deck under the pontoons (really it's just the sides of the boat) are slanted. This becomes a challenge for installing any seat that's wide enough for two people.

You can see that the standard seat bottom is slanted on both ends to allow for the shape of the deck.



But all the cooler seats that I can find have flat bottoms:

Wise 70 Qt Swingback Cooler Seat:




Wise 15.5 gal livewell/cooler seat:

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Old 08 February 2015, 19:03   #3
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Seat Installation

So here's what I am planning to do:



I'll bolt the seat to a stainless steel sheet cut to the same size as the bottom of the seat. The SS sheet will be screwed on top of a few King StarBoard studs.

At the front bottom of the seat, I will seal the space with a piece of 3/4" King StarBoard, screwed onto the front end of the studs. I don't want any toes or fish to be wedged in there.

Some gaps will be left at the bottom to allow water to flow through. I will probably cut a few holes bigger than depicted above.

Depending on the width of the seat and the angle of the deck, I may need more than 1 inch height of stud.



QUESTION: what thickness of SS sheet should I use? I think .1 inch (.25cm) should be more than enough, but it would cost about $100 to be cut-to-size and shipped to my home. Can I get away with something thinner and cheaper?
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Old 08 February 2015, 19:28   #4
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Why not build the base for the seat out of ABS? Then you could make it yourself with a pattern and a router. It would be reasonably light weight, completely weather proof for more years than the tubes, and easy to "glue" together. Starboard could even be utilized through the middle for support as your drawing shows.

Either way, first make a cardboard pattern, then a wood one to use as a pattern against a router follower bit.

Where are the battery, fuel tank, and boat accessories going to go? Did you decide on a console yet?

I bet you are getting excited.
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Old 08 February 2015, 20:38   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
Why not build the base for the seat out of ABS? Then you could make it yourself with a pattern and a router. It would be reasonably light weight, completely weather proof for more years than the tubes, and easy to "glue" together. Starboard could even be utilized through the middle for support as your drawing shows.

Either way, first make a cardboard pattern, then a wood one to use as a pattern against a router follower bit.
Not sure about ABS, so I will read more about that first.

I thought about building a fiberglass base for the seat, but I am not sure if I can make it to the right strength (e.g., if I messed up with mixing the resin), and I don't want to find out only when the seat breaks free.

Quote:
Where are the battery, fuel tank, and boat accessories going to go? Did you decide on a console yet?
The portable fuel tank goes behind the seat. I'll just tie it down.

The battery goes inside the console. My console (from Defender) should arrive tomorrow.
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Old 20 February 2015, 00:03   #6
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The motor arrived today. The boat should arrive tomorrow. I'll have to buy a chain hoist from Home Depot to lift the motor. It's a Suzuki DF30ATL, at 168lb it's claimed to be the lightest of its class. Still, I'll get two buddies to help with the lifting and mounting.

The motor came by fedex on a pallet.
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Hopefully my ladder will be strong enough. It's rated for 600 lb

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There's a lifting hook once you remove the cowling.
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Old 20 February 2015, 00:45   #7
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ABS or Starboard - no need for any stainless. Everything looks good so far!
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Old 20 February 2015, 03:04   #8
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This is my 340 that I converted last year


Sent from my iPhone using RIB Net
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Old 20 February 2015, 16:23   #9
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You should be able to toss the motor in place with two reasonably strong people. If you want to use a crane of some kind I can understand as that is how I move my outboard around. You can use shims once in place on the transom to get everything set before drilling.

Today West Marine special is...
LOWRANCE HDS-5 Gen2 Fishfinder/GPS Chartplotter with 50/200kHz Transducer | West Marine

The reviews are bad there but better on Amazon.
Amazon.com: Lowrance HDS-5 Gen2 Lake Insight Transducer: GPS & Navigation

It does not appear to come with maps so factor that into the price, but it does come with the transducer. Very good price for brand new. Your call, just throwing it out there.
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Old 20 February 2015, 20:56   #10
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Peter, I saw the west marine ad, too. Yes, tempting. I was looking at the Lowrance HDS7 touch with the structure scan bundle. It costs $1000 after rebate. It might be good for finding rocks where the rock fish live, but not sure if it's that much better than the HDS5.

Also I went to harbor freight trying to buy a chain hoist, but the guy there heard my plans about putting it on a ladder and dissuaded me from doing it for safety reasons. So I'll just get a couple of guys to help me lift it.
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