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Old 13 March 2015, 18:19   #51
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Aluminum plate for the steering wheel -- that's a good idea. Will do the same!
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Old 15 March 2015, 01:17   #52
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I screwed up one of the transom holes and it's not perpendicular to the transom. I worried that long term this may cause stress and crack the gelcoat.

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So I used a circular file to 'tilt' the hole by enlarging one corner. Now it looks perfect

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I'll fill the bottom side of the hole with epoxy and drill again to make the hole the right size.
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Old 15 March 2015, 01:23   #53
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Opened the motor to put in some extra cables for a NMEA 2000 network. That way I can show instruments like trim level, RPM, hours, error codes, etc, on the fish finder.
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Also installed the main wiring harness into the motor, to connect it with the control box. The smaller wire is the NMEA2000 cable.

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Old 15 March 2015, 01:28   #54
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Now I have lots wires coming out of the motor, and that's not counting the two control/shift cables and the steering cable.

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Lots of stainless fasteners. The cheapest I found is Home Depot.

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Old 15 March 2015, 01:34   #55
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I've bought lots of tools, including this drill press for drilling the aluminum angles. It's much more precise than a hand drill.

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Some dremel bits for hollowing out the wood portions of the transom holes. I will then fill with epoxy and redrill.

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Old 15 March 2015, 01:41   #56
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Made one more alum angle to re-enforce the bottom of the console. That way hopefully it will hold up if I accidentally kick it with a heavy rubber boot.

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Old 15 March 2015, 01:44   #57
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The NEMA2000 cable.

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Old 15 March 2015, 02:02   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by office888 View Post
A friend of mine installed the same exact polyethylene console on his dive boat.

We stiffened it up just like you did. We also added a plate of aluminum behind the steering wheel, and added some aluminum plate pieces to the track piece where the floor mounting bolts go through. We thrubolted with backer plates too (although togglers would work).

Zero problems in 4 ft+ chop at 20-25 mph.
Did you drill over-sized holes on the bottom of the console (where it meets the fiberglass) to allow for expansion? I heard that plastic expands much more than fiberglass, but I am not sure if I need to worry about it since the dimension is just about 15x15 inch.
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Old 15 March 2015, 17:38   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_fisher View Post
Lots of stainless fasteners. The cheapest I found is Home Depot.

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Good chance they are A2 stainless rather than A4 (316). Still stainless but may rust in salty water especially if surface gets damaged during install...
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Old 15 March 2015, 17:42   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_fisher View Post
I screwed up one of the transom holes and it's not perpendicular to the transom. I worried that long term this may cause stress and crack the gelcoat.

Attachment 103581

So I used a circular file to 'tilt' the hole by enlarging one corner. Now it looks perfect

Attachment 103582

I'll fill the bottom side of the hole with epoxy and drill again to make the hole the right size.
I may be wrong but do people not usually bolt from outside to inside. Assume to reduce crud on the thread when time comes to remove?

Are they stainless? Look like zinc dipped? Should there be a large washer to spread the load properly...?

Is the other side also not flush or is the transoms cross section not a parallelogram but a trapezoid?
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