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Old 05 March 2008, 12:56   #11
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I thought about trim tabs too. Then there was the question of hydraulic, fixed, one or two, and ofcourse room is tight, then, how big, and I just thought its a poor way of fixing the problem
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Old 05 March 2008, 16:03   #12
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I have the volvo QL trim tabs - electric and really easy to fit. I happen to have a spare set still in the box but they are the smaller 300mm ones suitable for boats up to 24' if anyone is interested.
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Old 06 March 2008, 02:48   #13
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I looked at those QL tabs and they would be great because they could fit between the auxiliary and the transom however it looked to me like the bit that sticks into the transom (must be the motor?) would be under the deck - and in my case under the transom boxes. They look well suited to a normal hardboat hull where you can get to the transom/hull join from the inside. If you were building from scratch you could easily accomodate these I would have thought.
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Old 06 March 2008, 02:55   #14
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I would have thought that as the hull (and trim tabs) leaves the water, for a moment the prop torque will be unresisted until it also clears the water imparting a tendency for the hull spin to port. This effect must be more pronounced on a deep V hull with the greater height between the side of the hull & trim tabs and the prop.

Richard
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Old 10 March 2008, 08:48   #15
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Results of sea trials

Took of the (45 kg) auxilliary engine at the weekend and fixed a plastic skip to the floor next to the transom at the starboard side about 21 inch offset. Took 50 kg of chuckies (gravel) to the pontoon and progressively filled the skip until the boat started to run level at full power. With the full 50 kg in, the boat was running nice and level even when leaving the water - major improvement. Took the boat home and modified the transom to take the aux on the starboard side.

The aux does not fit so neatly on the starboard side. The massively oversized Yamaha tiller wants to foul the rod on the steering ram so the spacing needs to be increased - the aux is about as far to starboard as the tubes will allow. Its going to make fitting trim tabs that bit harder but perhaps I dont need them now.

Will sea trial it again this weekend to see the results. I am hoping that I will be able to move the main engine back to the centre and pull the aux in to match.

Richard
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Old 14 March 2008, 19:14   #16
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wedge

I would suggest to add a wedge on the starboard side of the skeg; it will counter-act the propeller torque and keep effectiveness when the boat jump and flies, because the skeg is the last thing remaining into the water when you jump !

You can easily try it by adding an epoxy filler on the skeg to create a wedge, with sharp trailing edge, say 6mm.
If it doesn't work, it's easy to grind.

This kind of wedge was sold by Land n'Sea USA to solve this kind of problem
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