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Old 30 April 2015, 09:22   #1
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Making jockey seat water tight.

Put this up A while ago but can't find the thread anyway.....

I bought some rubber edge car door sealer fitted it all nice and snug then gave it the water test and bollicks it didn't work.
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Old 30 April 2015, 09:30   #2
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So looks like I will have to raise the witches hat then drill a couple of weep holes at floor level at the rear of the jockey console. If water is getting in I might as well do it this way...... stick the 3 plastic circles together with sealant to give it height (had to be 3 couldn't get one on it's own for the thickness I wanted) then cut down the middle raise the witches hat then enclose the two halfs around the cables then seal with sikaflex and sit the hat on top so that when water gets in there is enough height to stop the water going over the hat and down into the trunking / hull.

You're thoughts please.....
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Old 30 April 2015, 09:38   #3
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That's one of Nugent's tricks. Works well.
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Old 30 April 2015, 09:44   #4
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The plastic was cut to size and drilled by that very man Nos

He also made me some backrests out of the same stuff which can be stapled for upholstering..... just had mine reupholstered. Good stuff and never rots
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Old 30 April 2015, 10:00   #5
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Kerney

That is only a new rib the seats couldnt need doing allready?
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Old 30 April 2015, 10:39   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two stroke mick View Post
Kerney

That is only a new rib the seats couldnt need doing allready?
Just the backrests.
Its 4 year old now TSM....
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Old 30 April 2015, 12:34   #7
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Steve, am I missing summat? Shouldn't the seats fit over the raised lip on the seat base rather than just sit on the seal. The rebate around the top of the grp base should bear the weight of the seat & your fat arse body & the seal should just touch against the underside of the seat base. In theory you shouldn't need a seal as you form a labyrinth with the seat, if that makes sense. It looks to me that the 2 lateral bits of wood under the seat need shortening.
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Old 30 April 2015, 13:09   #8
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This is the stuff I put on Dave

Medium Car Door Rubber EDGE TRIM SEAL - Van Boat Truck Caravan - Bonnet Boot | eBay


I thought of putting a bead of silicon on the grp first but it's that tight a fit it would just rub the bead off. The two lateral blocks could do with a bit taking off but with a push they do drop inside the seal.

Water is actually finding it's way under the seal not the seat

It seems a lot of fekin about for an old nowty council waller like me the rubber mallet I was using nearly went through the garage widow but luckily bounced off
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Old 30 April 2015, 13:29   #9
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I'm not following this properly I don't think. I know it's re upholstery but wouldn't a flap on the seat work?
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Old 30 April 2015, 13:31   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.mccrirrick View Post
I'm not following this properly I don't think. I know it's re upholstery but wouldn't a flap on the seat work?
No Neil because the water is getting in at the front when it runs down the slope / dashboard from the steering wheel.

If it was a pod seat flaps would be the answer
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Old 30 April 2015, 13:44   #11
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[QUOTE=kerny;676337]So looks like I will have to raise the witches hat then QUOTE]

This is how I raised a witches hat.

This weeks little project.

Nasher
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Old 30 April 2015, 14:09   #12
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Making jockey seat water tight.

Instead of raising it, how about putting trunking through it.

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This pipe goes all the way to the engine. Note I drilled a small hole at floor level to let the water escape.

The larger hole is for the A Frame and steering cables.
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Old 30 April 2015, 15:53   #13
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[QUOTE=Nasher;676379]
Quote:
Originally Posted by kerny View Post
So looks like I will have to raise the witches hat then QUOTE]

This is how I raised a witches hat.

This weeks little project.

Nasher
Interesting thread that Nasher

Quote:
Originally Posted by A1an View Post
Instead of raising it, how about putting trunking through it.

Attachment 104932

This pipe goes all the way to the engine. Note I drilled a small hole at floor level to let the water escape.

The larger hole is for the A Frame and steering cables.
I want to keep the existing cables where they are A1an everything is underfloor so for me it would be much easier.
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Old 01 May 2015, 01:52   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
Steve, am I missing summat? Shouldn't the seats fit over the raised lip on the seat base rather than just sit on the seal.
There is no raised lip on the seat base it's flat Dave.
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Old 01 May 2015, 04:12   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerny View Post
There is no raised lip on the seat base it's flat Dave.

In that case, that's your problem. You need to form one.


.....sh1t happens.......
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Old 01 May 2015, 09:39   #16
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Crap picture but you can see that there is not much room to form one and the seat is very heavy so even if you could form one the repeated movement would eventually break the lip.





Looks like I will have to go with raising the hat.
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Old 01 May 2015, 10:18   #17
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How about get a piece of 1/2" marine ply, cut it to the same size as the outside of the seat base top( so you basically make a lid for the seat base) cut out the middle of the ply to give you access into the base & then screw & seal the wooden frame you have now made to the seat base. This gives you a 1/2" upstand all around the hole. Sit the seat cushion in the wooden frame. It might need tweaking, but that's the principle.


.....sh1t happens.......
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