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Old 13 October 2016, 05:11   #11
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Not convinced the battery is at fault, and I know it's impossible to diagnose on a post, was just wondering had anybody else had problems with a battery causing overcharging. It would seem not, I'll get a proper look later and post what I find. Could still be a poor connection, I'll get the meter out and go through it with a fine tooth comb
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Old 13 October 2016, 06:24   #12
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It worked fine the first week I was out with the new battery, the only difference the second week was that I had charged the battery fully and added electronics
If the battery was low and required charge on the first outing that might explain why you got no overcharge warnings as the battery was absorbing the overcharge.
Second trip with a full charge then you would see the full overcharge
As said probably the reason the original battery was fried & will fry the new battery if not sorted
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Old 13 October 2016, 16:09   #13
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Update so far!! All connections and wiring are ok, fitted another battery which seemed to lower the voltage at higher revs but probably due to battery having been sitting on a shelf for months and absorbing the charge!
I then replaced the regulator for the second hand unit I bought and the readings were at the other end of the scale reading only battery voltage even at higher revs!! At this point I assume the worst, that I have been taken for a mug and relieved of 30!!
As it was getting late and I live in a built up area I decided to call it a night but looked online for a Suzuki manual, after searching for a while I found something of interest, it states not to expect the charging system to charge a battery that is already above 12.5v ( both are 12.7+12.9 )
Even when running for a while with my multimeter connected the newest and lowest voltage battery never dropped below 12.6v
The manual recommends draining the battery by turning on all components and using PT+T to achieve sub 12.5v and then checking the system again!
I will report back tomorrow on my findings, does this ring true with any of you guys??
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Old 13 October 2016, 16:37   #14
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Run the motor up on muffs/in a tank/water.
At tickover check the voltage with a multimeter. Blip the fast idle and see if the voltage rises. Should top out at 13.8-14.5v and drop again as the revs drop.

If it doesn't do that then your rec/reg unit is goosed. it sounds like it is anyway, but that'll tell you for sure.

It's not your battery.
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Old 13 October 2016, 16:40   #15
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looked online for a Suzuki manual, after searching for a while I found something of interest, it states not to expect the charging system to charge a battery that is already above 12.5v ( both are 12.7+12.9 )
Even when running for a while with my multimeter connected the newest and lowest voltage battery never dropped below 12.6v
The manual recommends draining the battery by turning on all components and using PT+T to achieve sub 12.5v and then checking the system again!
I will report back tomorrow on my findings, does this ring true with any of you guys??
No - it sounds like a way to ruin batteries. I must be misunderstanding what you are doing or reading. With the engine on your voltage at the battery should be a little over 14V. If it is only 12.?V then you aren't charging it.
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Old 13 October 2016, 16:57   #16
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A quick blip still just showed battery voltage only, I'm used to working on motors, MX bikes, road bikes and commercial vehicles for 20+ years and would ordinarily instantly diagnose a regulator fault! But due to not being familiar with outboard charging systems I thought I'd try and do a bit of research first. The mind boggles!!! Some say only use lead acid, some say agm batteries won't work and the others just have no clue!!
My reason for even suggesting that the battery voltage may be too high for the regulator to start charging was due to an extract from a Suzuki workshop manual, I have tried to attach a photo to show you all that I'm not mad....😂
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Old 13 October 2016, 17:30   #17
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it states not to expect the charging system to charge a battery that is already above 12.5v
that is not what it says!

it says you must have a battery with <12.5V to TEST the charge system output. Presumably because with an almost dead (<12.5V) battery it puts out a bigger current than when the battery is nearly full.
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Old 13 October 2016, 17:38   #18
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So there is no marine trickery? It's all just the same as anything else I've ever worked on and I just need to fork out for a new regulator! Got it...😂😂
Thanks for putting me straight👌
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Old 13 October 2016, 18:12   #19
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So there is no marine trickery? It's all just the same as anything else I've ever worked on and I just need to fork out for a new regulator! Got it...����
Thanks for putting me straight��
Pretty much. The only real differences are the cooling,the mechanical advance, the ignition being an independent system from the battery on most outboards and quite how many bolts you'll break...

Too many people overcomplicate these things. 1st principles work
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Old 14 October 2016, 02:59   #20
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Similar to MX or trials bikes then! I'll pick up a regulator later if I can and let you know how I get on
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