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Old 18 January 2014, 08:31   #1
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Love my new bow roller.

Couple of us who have Protectors were unhappy with the bow arrangement when anchoring. The winch and capstan pole is set well back - which means that the lead to the anchor rides over the front tubes. This area has a groove which the rope is meant to run in.
http://cdn.rib.net/forum/images/sk/attach/jpg.gif
However as the boat swings the rope jumps out and runs over the tube black area and when pulling up the anchor the rope / chain bites into the rubber – not good! So we got our heads together and Dick came up with this great design to improve the anchor lead.
http://www.rib.net/forum/attachment....3&d=1390051855
The whole unit pops on and off in a second as there is not much point in having a soft boat with a hard area at the bow! The guy who did the stainless work is from Poole and does a lot for Sunseeker apparently – maybe Biffer knows him? This works great – all I need to do now is un-seize the winch!!
http://www.rib.net/forum/attachment....4&d=1390051855
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Old 18 January 2014, 10:37   #2
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Thats a nice solution. Impressed.

(On a mildly related topic, whats the name of the knot used to tie the anchor line to the painter in a normal RIB/anchor situation ?)
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Old 18 January 2014, 11:28   #3
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(On a mildly related topic, whats the name of the knot used to tie the anchor line to the painter in a normal RIB/anchor situation ?)
If you were tying rope to metal ring you would use an Anchor Bend - however rope to rope you have to be careful - sheet bend only works safely under load. So I would use two Bowline Knots as a quick solution.
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Old 18 January 2014, 11:40   #4
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......... So I would use two Bowline Knots as a quick solution.
If you only ever learn to tie 1 knot, make sure it's a bowline.
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Old 18 January 2014, 11:41   #5
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A nice solution and something I have been looking at doing on mine. But I have two questions.

1. Looking at the arm and in particular the hoop at the tip, how do you take the anchor rope off it for storage?

2. I notice there is no catch on where the arm sits under the Sampson post. What stops the arm from coming off during recovery or deployment and falling in the water?
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Old 18 January 2014, 11:44   #6
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So if I chuck the anchor in, put a loop in the line and then bowline the painter into that loop I should be fine.

My painter is firmly attached to the 'D' ring on the front of the RIB, the final end of the anchor line is firmly attached to an eye in the anchor locker.
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Old 18 January 2014, 11:45   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
If you only ever learn to tie 1 knot, make sure it's a bowline.
+1 - bowline every time
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Old 18 January 2014, 12:01   #8
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If using 3 strand, and anchor bend is fine so long as you tuck the tail through the lay of the rope.
Likewise I've heard people say a bowling will never come out, which is true so long as it's always under load, if the tail goes slack a bowline can come undone, best to tuck the tail through the lay or if using multiplait put a half hitch in the tail to secure it.
The great thing about a bowline is that it will always come out even if you need to use a hammer to break the back of the loop.

Or if you can't tie knots.......tie lots.........
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Old 18 January 2014, 12:38   #9
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Quote:
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If you only ever learn to tie 1 knot, make sure it's a bowline.
+1 n learn to tie it one handed, you never know when you'll need one n can't let go with the other hand
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Old 18 January 2014, 12:47   #10
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A nice solution and something I have been looking at doing on mine. But I have two questions.

1. Looking at the arm and in particular the hoop at the tip, how do you take the anchor rope off it for storage?

2. I notice there is no catch on where the arm sits under the Sampson post. What stops the arm from coming off during recovery or deployment and falling in the water?
You have very wisely spotted two modifications I am now considering. The "hoop" is not particularly relevant but dose add some strength to any lateral forces. So i will either get rid of it or will make a modification so it undoes very quickly.

The weight of the unit, the tight locking fit and the chain /rope forces keep the unit in position - and down. However I am going to make another modification where it locks securely to the Sampson post. Needs to be quick and easy however as the unit lives in the locker.
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