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Old 26 January 2011, 16:09   #11
ashbypower's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Salisbury/Poole
Boat name: Blue C
Make: XS 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: 125hp Opti
MMSI: 235082826/235909566
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,439
Why not rig the straps with a spreader, to reduce the angle fron the flange and lifting point on whatever your lifting with.. leave the tubes deflated ,

Brian C
Harbour Sea School & APS Marine Centre
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Old 26 January 2011, 17:10   #12
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Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x 115 Etecs/DF140a
MMSI: 235060745/235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,406
I have a couple of eyebolts set into the concrete floor behind the boat, to get the boat off the trailer I attach ratchet straps to the towing eyes on the stern & to the eyebolts & slowly pull the trailer out from under the boat. As the trailer pulls forward I chock up the hull on timbers behind the trailer. Getting the boat back on is basically a reversal of the operation. Use the winch to pull the trailer back under, removing the chocks as you go. Simples!!
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Old 27 January 2011, 03:50   #13
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,538
Originally Posted by ribraff View Post
Can you not use the winch and put it down on to some tyres?
Wot I did.

Granted my hull at the time was covered in a 4" thick multiple layers of antifoul (slight exaggeration, but you get the picture! ) so I wasnlt too concerned about what it landed on. Next time I would use carpet. (A/F now removed & it's all shiny & polished)

On a more helpful note, there will be a point where the whole trailer will tip back, at which point you put the capet / tyres / foam / whatever under the transom, and that is the time to get a couple of tyres / blocks of wood under the hull to stop it tipping. Then as described in the previous posts.

To get it back on, the first bit is a pain, as you need to either lift the bow onto the rollers or lift the hitch to drop the rollers to the bow. Then use one hand to hold the trailer nose up, winch with the other (no real winch load at this point). Once you can't turn the winch with one hand above your head (!) the riollers should have properly engaged with the hull, and you may find the weight of the trailer will flatten it out and lift the bow clear of the ground. Then it's a simpkle case of winching with due caution.

Spreader bar - I built one from wood for my open trailer to prevent the sides getting bent in when I carried stuff that needed weird ratchet strap angles. Bit of sizeable timber, and use a couple of ply offcuts to create "jaws" to locate the spreader on the stap.
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Old 27 January 2011, 12:48   #14
Country: UK - Wales
Town: west wales
Make: humber destroyer 5m
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90 yamaha
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 200
We tip ribs off on to car tyres all the time,just put three or four tyres in a row,tip the trailer up so that the bottom of the transom sits in the furthest one then give the boat a shove and keeping the trailer lifted pay the winch strap out as she slides off,if the rollers are shot then get a couple of guys to lift her as you pull the trailer out,put the rest of the tyres in place as you go,most of the weight is in the engine anyway.
I can do this to a 5m humber with a 70 on my own so its more to do with technique than strength.
Important to keep the winch strap on and pay it out slowly or it will go with a rush and then you can hurt yourself.
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Old 28 January 2011, 16:47   #15
Country: UK - England
Town: Northumberland
Boat name: Dr Doof
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury 125hp
MMSI: 235082981
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 297

Seen this on ebay earlier.

Don't know if it would be any good for what you want to do?

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