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Old 12 September 2002, 11:19   #21
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Back to seats.....

When specing my rib

Bench seats - Out - no use in any weather (well I do have one in front of the console!)

Jockey Seats - The way to go! - My Ribcraft seats are very comfortable. They are tall, quite narrow at the top making getting a bag inside quite difficult, but comfortable when you are standing and the most important part - firm foam - the harder the better

Jools
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Old 12 September 2002, 12:20   #22
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? I thought the whole point of a rib was that it is inherantly stable at rest, due to the tubes.

Keith (puzzled) Hart
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Old 12 September 2002, 12:28   #23
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Keith

RIBs are stable at rest, and handle rough weather much better than the average plastic boats, but you have to realise that there are limits, and seating for the passengers - and driver - is an important aspect of handling difcult seas, where the motion can be somewhat unpredictable to say the least.
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Old 12 September 2002, 12:45   #24
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Hi Graeme

I was refering to the boat with holes in the hull (to make it stable at rest). Perhaps I have it wrong and the boat refered to isn't a rib?

Keith Hart
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Old 12 September 2002, 13:08   #25
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Keith, greetings, the searider is a rib with a facility to have a chamber between the deck and hull flooded with water. I think the weight of the water alters the centre of gravity of the boat when at rest appearing to make it more stable, especially when loaded with four squids and their gas bottles etc. i f you're interested, I use Upton on Severn midweek for a quite fish so you're welcome for a ride and better explanation. Not as exciting as the sea due to the speed limit but at least you're on the water. Even the local fire brigade have a rib based at Upton and they play with it quite regularly, but why the squirters need a rib is beyond me. Probably conned their gaffers into thinking it was an indispensable piece of equipment. DM.
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Old 12 September 2002, 17:12   #26
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Keith,

A rib's stability at rest is also driven by how the tubes are set in relation to the hull and the water. If they are flush with the water line when stationary then the tubes provide a high degree of stability. Traditionally (if thats the right phrase) Dive type RIBS are designed this way as stability at rest is a definate bonus. My old DS21 was extremely stable at rest being very beamy and having the tubes well in contact at rest.

Higher performance RIBS will have the tubes set well clear of the water and are thus more "tippy" whilst stationary as the boat has to heel over further before the tube makes contact with the water. My Scorpion is very much in this category.

SIBS of course have their tubes in contact all the time so are very stable at rest!

Cheers,
Alan
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Old 13 September 2002, 08:17   #27
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Back to jockey consoles then: ribtec 3 man is as follows:

Length 45"
Height 20"
width at bottom 14" (plus 1.5" flange for glue and self tappers)
width at top 11.5"

then a foam seat 7.5" high, semi circle in shape made in hard foam mounted on a 0.75" base of Oroko. You can buy the semi circle foam in long lengths and its about 11" wide at the base

This console is for 2.5 - 3 people. If a mould was made for this size, one man consoles can be glassed by putting in a fillet say half way along and just glassing just half a console. Pasticine is used to fair in the fillet. Osprey used to recon 20 - 30 hulls before a mould needed to be replaced. Seems resonable. Hope this helps the debate. Pete
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Old 13 September 2002, 15:26   #28
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I have posted on this slite a couple of times when the good old battle of cost versus building it yourself.....
I made a plywood version coated in epoxy about 4/5 years ago for an A-level design project...think I just about got everything covered height stowages etc...places for instruments...all space was utilised...I have the designs still but am on a ship in Scotland...useless i know...but I sold the boat before I finished my A-levels and then sold the console for 250.... It certainly wasn't going to fall apart being well built using many many techniques.... it cost about 100-150...I don't have the details with me...But designing it yourself means u can tailor your every need....Like measuring the height you prefer maybe use a bike to judge saddle height then reduce by a percentage about 5-10 to judge your idle height.... Also in the true design spirit i made a full size cardboard model....this then lets u play with heights etc.... As regards seat padding...definately harder foam in layers...
Alex
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