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Old 08 November 2015, 02:17   #31
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do you have better pictures?

how old is the hull btw?
I will have much better pictures after I have made the 7 hour journey to St. Andrews in Fife early next Saturday.

I have no idea about the hull age - will ask the the vendor.

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things to check-

Hull-

check keel condition.

check the chines for damage.

press hard (a fist punch) on the hull in various places and see if anything untoward.
All understood.
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Tubes-

who made the tubes and what material, may have a warranty left on them. check all the seams and ask how often they need pumped up. the tubes will fluctuate with temperature so you need to keep this in mind if they go down a little when you are on the trial.

the lettering if it comes off may always be visible due to sun bleaching.
All understood. A good point about the lettering being visible even if removable. Are there any possible solutions to such a problem? Covering with some sort of design or the use of some professional cleaning service... anything but a re-tube?
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Deck-

the rear seats are a different orange from the console, check how they are attached to the deck and they are watertight, very important or you will be putting a new deck in down the road.

as the boat has been through a refit, walk all round the deck and feel for soft patches, especially the transom/knees and the base of the seats.

if the boat has a drain well, give it all a good push to feel for soft spots.
I had not noticed the seat colour change. (must be something to do with potential owner blindness and long distance love affairs ) What method of attachment for the rear seats should I see if the job has been well done?
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Inner Hull-

pull the transom bung before you go out, if water is in there see if it is fresh or salt. if the boat is used exclusively in salt and you taste fresh water then the deck has a leak somewhere. ask the last time they emptied the hull out. i'd be VERY wary of any water in there period TBH no matter the reason.

pull the bung when you come back, more water in there...problems.
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Transom-

what is that on the transom and why it is there.

vigorously bounce the engine while down, some people stand on the engine to do this while looking for transom/knees flex

check the elephant's trunk area for cracks where the hole has been bored through. again looking for clues as to why that plate is on the engine.

carefully check the entire transom, especially along the top and where the engine bolts go through. if you see the bolts being pulled into the glass you may have a soft transom. i.e look for any reason to have that plate there.
I feel that I now may have a clue as to what to look for. Is there likely to be any any sort of deal breaking caveat in the reason for the plate?
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Gubbins-

make sure all electronics work correctly.

i assume the fuel tank is in the console, general inspection would do.

you may see some gelcoat crazing in a few places, depending on where they are would depend on potential issues down the road. maybe just cosmetic or could be something starting, hard to say.
Gubbins is not a word I have seen or heard for many a year and I was reminded of some time spent in mechanical engineering... everything unknown was referred to as that/this/some or a gubbins. My pictures may help to identify issues with gelcoat.
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Trailer-

if you are getting a trailer, ask when the bearings were changed and ask them to re-grease before you leave. carry spare bearings with you if possible as i assume you have a long journey, and have a decent tool kit on hand.
I have no towbar on my car and I am not intending to buy the trailer.
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Engine-

engine service history and who done it, needs to be dealer to keep the warranty.

has the engine always been flushed after each use.

look for signs of rust under the hood and the engine mount, it is unlikely you will see anything though given the age and little use.

dipstick on engine, check for oil level. if it is very high and smells of petrol the engine probably hasn't been ran in correctly. i.e the rings have not seated (making oil is the common term).
All understood.
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if i think of anything else i'll add.

I suspect the boat is in good nick though or they wouldn't have refurbed it in first place.
This was a really helpful post, dubrus.I feel that my supporter's fee to RIBnet has paid for itself with your missive on buying a RIB secondhand. Thank you very much.

more anon...
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Old 08 November 2015, 03:21   #32
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Jepho's RIB purchase search thread

[QUOTE=jepho;699266][FONT="Palatino Linotype"][SIZE="3"]I will have much better pictures after I have made the 7 hour journey to St. Andrews in Fife early next Saturday.



I feel that I now may have a clue as to what to look for. Is there likely to be any any sort of deal breaking caveat in the reason for the plate?


Why don't you get the seller to send you pictures of the inside of the transom and the metal contraption on it.
It may save you a 14 hr round trip .......
I saw that rib in St Andrews harbour 3 weeks ago ......
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Old 08 November 2015, 03:33   #33
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I will have much better pictures after I have made the 7 hour journey to St. Andrews in Fife early next Saturday.
Ask for pics of deck before you go. Ideally a few from each angle to see the way the seats are in and the transom.

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I have no idea about the hull age - will ask the the vendor.
Come back with that info when you have it.

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All understood. A good point about the lettering being visible even if removable. Are there any possible solutions to such a problem? Covering with some sort of design or the use of some professional cleaning service... anything but a re-tube?
Depending how long the letters have been on there you will probably need to live with it. If the boat lives outside without a cover you can pretty much assume you will always see traces of something even when well cleaned. You could cover it with a big patch if you wish ofcourse. If it is stored inside then you have a better chance for sure though.

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I had not noticed the seat colour change. (must be something to do with potential owner blindness and long distance love affairs ) What method of attachment for the rear seats should I see if the job has been well done?
Best is glassed externally with the deck back to glass around the seats, flow coated again, expensive to do though.

Good opion is also glassed but done internally round the entire base. Also needs deck inside back to bare glass, not the original flow coat or they will come off in a good wave.

If it is screwed down with silicon then it has been done on the cheap. Probably have water seeping into deck via the screws at some point.

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I feel that I now may have a clue as to what to look for. Is there likely to be any any sort of deal breaking caveat in the reason for the plate?
Yes, you don't want to be putting a new transom in. That is potentially why that plate is there in the first place. Most people who add a plate do it for extending the transom life. it is just another large area for water to be trapped otherwise. I would be concerned about that plate and would spend a lot of time around that area. I'm curious if there is also a plate in the inside.........
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Old 08 November 2015, 04:05   #34
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[QUOTE=69cmw;699272]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jepho View Post
[FONT="Palatino Linotype"][SIZE="3"]I will have much better pictures after I have made the 7 hour journey to St. Andrews in Fife early next Saturday.



I feel that I now may have a clue as to what to look for. Is there likely to be any any sort of deal breaking caveat in the reason for the plate?


Why don't you get the seller to send you pictures of the inside of the transom and the metal contraption on it.
It may save you a 14 hr round trip .......
I saw that rib in St Andrews harbour 3 weeks ago ......
Yes, good idea. I now understand that a transom replacement would be a deal breaker. Did you form any opinions when you first saw the RIB in St Andrews harbour?
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Old 08 November 2015, 04:11   #35
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Quote:
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Ask for pics of deck before you go. Ideally a few from each angle to see the way the seats are in and the transom.



Come back with that info when you have it.



Depending how long the letters have been on there you will probably need to live with it. If the boat lives outside without a cover you can pretty much assume you will always see traces of something even when well cleaned. You could cover it with a big patch if you wish ofcourse. If it is stored inside then you have a better chance for sure though.



Best is glassed externally with the deck back to glass around the seats, flow coated again, expensive to do though.

Good opion is also glassed but done internally round the entire base. Also needs deck inside back to bare glass, not the original flow coat or they will come off in a good wave.

If it is screwed down with silicon then it has been done on the cheap. Probably have water seeping into deck via the screws at some point.



Yes, you don't want to be putting a new transom in. That is potentially why that plate is there in the first place. Most people who add a plate do it for extending the transom life. it is just another large area for water to be trapped otherwise. I would be concerned about that plate and would spend a lot of time around that area. I'm curious if there is also a plate in the inside.........
Thank you for the technical information, dubrus. I will request more relevant images from the vendor. It may well save me a fruitless trip.
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Old 08 November 2015, 04:14   #36
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Someone has spent a lot of money refurbing that so decent chance things are good.

Good luck!
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Old 08 November 2015, 04:22   #37
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Someone has spent a lot of money refurbing that so decent chance things are good.

Good luck!
I thought that too. Thanks for wishing me luck.
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Old 08 November 2015, 06:19   #38
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**LOW HOURS**Ribquest 5.8 with Suzuki 90 - 14,995.00

Option maybe at top of your budget.

I bought my boat from them, I'm sure a haggle would be doable.
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Old 08 November 2015, 07:39   #39
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**LOW HOURS**Ribquest 5.8 with Suzuki 90 - 14,995.00

Option maybe at top of your budget.

I bought my boat from them, I'm sure a haggle would be doable.
Yes, thanks dubrus. I have noted that boat as a possible one on my list previously. I did do my powerboat 2 course with JBT and they have a dry stack facility too. Seemed like a helpful group of people to me. The 3 months warranty would be useful, if one could use the boat during that time.

I suspect that the worsening weather may play a part in limiting that usage from now on. I have a tiny insight concerning their particular stretch of the Solent after the powerboat 2 course. Boats at that end of my budget might restrict me when paying for a dry stack for the whole year. hmmm... I wonder what sort of discount one could achieve by not buying the trailer. I will give them a ring during the coming week. Of course the option to wait and squirrel away a few more squid is also a possibility.
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Old 08 November 2015, 08:37   #40
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updated information

Quote:
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do you have better pictures?

how old is the hull btw?
Better images are on the way. The hull was produced in 1997. The retube was carried out by Humber in 2012/13. The different seats are apparently screwed down with self-tapping screws. The plate on the transom was an addition by the previous owner. The boat was purchased in Stornaway and the previous owner had told the current owner that the plate was used to strengthen the transom. This was ostensibly so that a 200hp engine could be fitted!

Even I know that 200hp would be excessive for such a small craft. Humber's own recommendation does not exceed 130hp for the 5.8 metre Destroyer model RIB. It seems that a 200hp engine on their Destroyer class of RIB would not be within specified limits unless you own the 7 metre model. This frankenrib now appears to be less of a good purchase than I had thought initially. Any fool who wanted to attach a 200hp engine to a 5.8 metre leisure RIB probably did not know enough to care for the boat very well. The transom adjustment may be little more than a DIY bodge if the intention was just to go faster.

The 18 year age of the hull is disappointing and I think that I can do better by reassessing my budget and taking care not to buy someone else's problems. Realistically speaking the engine may well be worth a bit in secondhand value with its lean burn technology and low usage hours; with the proviso that it has been properly run-in and appropriately serviced. The self-tapping screws holding the aft seats onto the deck concern me. I know something about mechanical engineering and the hold provided by self-tappers is anything but secure.

I would probably value the whole plot (one 18 year old RIB which has been substantially mucked around structurally by someone who in all probability is not a professional) as worth considerably less (about 60% less would be my own guesstimate) than the current asking price. Ultimately, I would prefer not to buy what was in effect an abandoned and poorly conceived project... at any price

see that... I have had just one week on RIBNet and I am already able to value boats. The subscription to RIBNet was well worth the money. Thank you for opening my eyes dubrus. I am very much obliged to you.
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