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Old 19 April 2012, 12:27   #11
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DURITE MARINE BATTERY ISOLATOR SWITCH 300 AMP ROTARY OF/1/2/BOTH 0-605-09 | eBay


just purchased one of these my self
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Old 20 April 2012, 04:04   #12
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Ive used these for many years no probs
Absolutely sure your battery is disconnected
Prior to that the isolators were crap
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Old 20 April 2012, 04:56   #13
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I don't think having no isolator at all is a good idea on a boat, for fire safety reasons.

For example, I once lost an outboard off the back of a boat at speed which left me with a bunch of cables and live wires inc battery cables and fuel hoses hanging in the breeze. The first thing I did was isolate the power at the battery switch, I would've hated to not be able to do that.
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Old 20 April 2012, 06:32   #14
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Used the BEP unit for 3 years now with no problems. Had to red key ones on a Sunseeker for 7 years and changes them twice, and they were in a really dry well protected position compared to the rib!
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Old 20 April 2012, 07:19   #15
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Risky moment here ....

I've not got one on my Avon ( despite being 'professionally' rigged from new) . I had one on the old boat that was painful due to corrosion when it wasn't looked after before I got it.

My car doesn't have one and it doesn't burst into flames , but of course when you crash a car one of the first things the fire & rescue ( can I call them brigade any more ? ) service do it cut the battery wires under the bonnet ( assuming its located there).

I think they can cause more hassle than is really worth it, but of course in the situations like Martini describes well worth it.

I wonder how many fires start due to dodgy switches etc .....

I'll get my coat .....
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Old 20 April 2012, 12:27   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM View Post
Risky moment here ....

I've not got one on my Avon ( despite being 'professionally' rigged from new) . I had one on the old boat that was painful due to corrosion when it wasn't looked after before I got it.

My car doesn't have one and it doesn't burst into flames , but of course when you crash a car one of the first things the fire & rescue ( can I call them brigade any more ? ) service do it cut the battery wires under the bonnet ( assuming its located there).

I think they can cause more hassle than is really worth it, but of course in the situations like Martini describes well worth it.

I wonder how many fires start due to dodgy switches etc .....

I'll get my coat .....

Stating the obvious..
The problem with heavy electrical cables coming direct from the motor to the battery, means that in the event of any fire whether it is caused by petrol or oil, once the flames get to grips with electrical stuff and a short occurs, the cables themselves short and spread the problem along the length of the vessel to wherever the battery is situated. With the electrics isolated at least it should hopefully be limited to the source of the problem. With a car you can stop, get out and walk to a safe distance and there are likely to be other people about to give assistance.
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Old 20 April 2012, 12:36   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougcrock View Post
Ive used these for many years no probs
Absolutely sure your battery is disconnected
Prior to that the isolators were crap
I had these on a rib a few years back and quite liked them. For those who haven't seen them they use a quick lever action to clamp the wires on/off the battery terminals. So you can isolate but not so easily by accident and battery location can make a big difference to their practicality.
The only thing I didn't like about them is they didn't appear well protected against corrosion.
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Old 20 April 2012, 15:59   #18
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I fitted a Blue Sea M-series switch. Feels solid, seems waterproof, and worth every penny.
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