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Old 13 May 2014, 12:55   #11
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Try this gauge instead.
BRAVO SP-125 Pressure Gauge | West Marine

If you don't put it inline with your pump just plug the extra hole where the hose would go. West Marine also carries a cap/checker type but I couldn't find it on their website.

I will try to take a pic of the U bolts at home. They just go through the top of the transom like on any hard boat. Then 2 ratchet straps hold the transom down to the trailer bunks.
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Old 13 May 2014, 17:16   #12
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What's your altitude between boating points. Are going from sea level to a high altitude ? Accorrding to my Andean Experience with inflatables a sib/rib with its tubes inflated to 3.0 psi at a close garage at 9 K feet and driven to sea level, will arrive with 1.0 psi.

On that matter if you boat all day long at sea level with 3.0 psi and don't deflate sib to same pressure as previously arrived while going to same elevation will burst tubes on its way up.

Need a pressure gauge to be on the safe side specially if ascending from a low to a high altitude, remove engine as transom will rock accordingly along tubes when deflation shines in.

Happy Boating
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Old 13 May 2014, 17:24   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjah View Post
In regard to monitoring the pressure, I've been considering buying a screw on gauge but the only one I can find is online here: Screw Cap Pressure Gage

Problem is it's going to cost me like $60+ which seems expensive. I'm sure its [well] worth it but can anyone recommend anything else?
Zodiac has its own pressure gauges, no other one that works on Halkey Roberts valve will work/read. Better ask before you buy if that model will match your Zodiac sib valves. A pressure gauge is the way to go if don't want to hear a load kabummm on it's way up.

Happy Boating
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Old 13 May 2014, 18:07   #14
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Are you carbureted or fuel injected? The power loss on my old carbureted Honda was amazing. It was running very rich due to the altitude. I forget the numbers but the altitude and power loss were right on.
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Old 13 May 2014, 18:24   #15
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Heed everyone's advice.

I started at 39 degrees in the AM in southern OR with super soft, flaccid tubes -headed south on the 5 - hit 70 degree at the summit by Lake Shasta - popped a 4 ft gash in my tube.
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Old 13 May 2014, 23:01   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjah View Post
Also, captnjack, I'd be curious to see photos of what you did with those Ubolts.
I am not captnjack, but I do have U-bolts in my boat. Of course they are reversed to be used as lifting rings for hoist launch at Still Water Cove and Pt Arena (They have backers on them now). On the outside I have an eye that can be used for attaching most anything like a wakeboard rope. My boat came with two galvanized eye bolts in the transom. The u-bolts now go thru the eye bolts original location. I would recommend putting some u-bolts on the transom if you don't currently have some. I got mine from Amazon.

You can see one of mine on the upper left of my transom. The right one is hidden by the elephant trunk. My tie off points that I use when trailering are clearly my wheel brackets. I have an ugly boat, and I don't care, as it gets the job done!
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Old 14 May 2014, 11:21   #17
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For lowering the pressure, I don't think a gauge is necessary (though you may want one for the final filling.) Get a feel for how stiff the tubes are for normal running conditions, and deflate so you get 3 to 4 times the deflection when bashing the tube with your fist (or other measurement - it's not that critical.) Should be softer than when you're on the water, but not so soft that it flaps around in air wake from the car.

Last time I went to Tahoe, I left Oakland in 65ish degrees, hit 90s to 100s through Sacto, then hit the hills. I must have dropped pressure 6 times to the pass, then had to stop and refill on the way back down to the lake (temp back to the 70s.) That was prior to the mussel inspections, so no experience with that.

jky
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Old 16 May 2014, 12:29   #18
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Hey guys. So I'm headed to a lake at 2000ft (from 20ft) for memorial day. I expect the temperature to start around 70-75 and get close to the 90s+. Any ideas on what pressure to start at and at what temp/elevation to start letting air out?
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Old 16 May 2014, 12:36   #19
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better safe than sorry. I usually deflate them to squishy but not floppy to start with and with rising temps and altitudes when I see they have regained their form I usually stop and check them. It's all very off the cuff.

Temperatures have been a bigger issue for me. On the trips to the Channel islands I leave the water at 50 and foggy and can drive to 100+ in the valleys.

Again better safe than sorry. Take it easy, you are towing a boat so another 10 minutes in stops won't be the end of the world.
Jason
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