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Old 27 August 2004, 09:43   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDog
I feel it would be necessary to have reinforced ends on the cut part of the A frame as, being tubular, it has little scope for a hinge without beefing it up.
Agree

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Originally Posted by ScottyDog
Are there cables running up or in it ? There would be enough slack, I am sure, but it may make things fun when sawing through the tube.
There were cables running up the back tube but I have had to remove the whole lot to get it throught the garage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDog
Is it single or double ? How far down does it need to hinge ?.
Double i'll post a picky . between 90 and 180 degs - I want to fit a VHF aerial

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDog
Why do you mention the biminis ? Does this affect your plans for the A frame ?
Nope - just thats the only sort of diy stuff I've seen.

Oh and Ideally I would like it to be a hidden hinge - just for asthetic reasons.

Cheers

Phil
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Old 27 August 2004, 09:54   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Des
I'm Intrigued are you importing these brakes? Des
Sorry just the trailers with or without brakes
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Old 27 August 2004, 10:02   #33
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Hinging A frame

I think the hinging would have to be fitted to one half of the A frame and the other half would have to have some sort of spigot fitting to relocate it when righting the frame again. There will ultimately be cable for the navlight and coax for the VHF, but this should not cause a problem. As for not wishing to weld, drill etc I fear it would not be possible to make a suitably strong assembly without the aforementioned reinforcements. Cabling could be split with IP sealed connectors and the four pieces of tubing could be cut and fitted with 2 pairs of interlocking ferrules/pegs and secured with a pip pin or similar, even a split pin.

If there seems to be interest in demountable sections for A frames it would be quite possible for me to knock up insertable ferrules that could be used to mate the two halves. Different internal diameters would dictate several dimensions would have to be turned. It might be a good method for introducing carriers for poly bottles and other attachments.

I shall ponder some more.
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Old 27 August 2004, 10:12   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDog
I think the hinging would have to be fitted to one half of the A frame and the other half would have to have some sort of spigot fitting to relocate it when righting the frame again.

As for not wishing to weld, drill etc I fear it would not be possible to make a suitably strong assembly without the aforementioned reinforcements.

I shall ponder some more.
Very happy too have it hinged at the back where the cable runs.

Don't mind drilling /cutting prefer not to have to weld.

Look forward to the results of your pondering.

Cheers

Phil
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Old 27 August 2004, 13:59   #35
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Scotty Dog,

You got PM!

Cheers

Tim
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Old 27 August 2004, 15:09   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geoff
How about a set of trailer wheels where the brakes will still work after one season's use. Having just replaced the axle of my trailer after only four years, the inside of the wheel drums was brown mush, even though it was regularly serviced. It can't be right to continually dunk a load of steel and iron into salt water and then drive on it and expect it to continue working.
Rapide are offering disc brakes (maybe this is the answer).
And dont get me started on brake cables!!
How about a piggy back trailer for ribs,the piggy back part would only be immersed in water and designed with bunks and docking arms.
The brakes would never get wet,the main part of the trailer to stop just short of the water,so no problems with deteriorating brakes through immersion in salt water.
The whole set up to be quite low height wise perhaps so the bottom of the rib hull is only inches above the bottom of the wheels on the piggy back and the piggy back to be securely fixed for transit.
The piggy back could be lower at the front so that the piggy back provides a level platform for the rib to float onto.
Starter for ten anyway.
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Old 27 August 2004, 15:54   #37
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'piggy back' trailer

Are you talking about a sort of 'combi' trailer, like they use for sailing dinghies, with a road base and a seperate launching trolley? I used an old dell quay dory once with this arrangement- it worked quite well, the only problems being with the tyres - it is hard to find ones to support the weight of even a small RIB/ powerboat, and the bit where you have to get the trolley aligned with the base so that it runs onto the base freely.

If you want to design one it might be a good idea to look at some of the ones for larger sailing dinghies as an example.

Good luck!

Matt
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Old 30 August 2004, 08:00   #38
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In fact all the trailers I've got are without brakes since the max weight on the boats (the 700RSR is just 750-850kgs and the the 640SRs are a lot less than that so no need).
Don't forget the laws are different in the UK compared to Greece - as I understand it the max permissable gross weight (boat and trailer combined) is 750 KG - and then there is the issue of whether the tow vehicle is heavy enough!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 30 August 2004, 10:18   #39
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I thought that it was the same for all of Europe Cookee and the towing weight depends on the weight (size I suppose) of the trowing vehicle and a vehicle provided its weight permits it can tow up to 3tonnes. May be the UK is different I suppose ............. still driving on the wrong side of the road (just kidding)
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Old 30 August 2004, 10:40   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyDog
it has little scope for a hinge without beefing it up.
The Italians make hinged and width adjustable A frames. Nautequipe chandlers sell them. There's also loads of products for warp runnels for the bow and side tubes. You can also get hinged stainless/plastic ladders for afixing to A frames and even foot straps which drop back into their own recess.

Is anyone interested in this round thing with spokes that I've invented?

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