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Old 04 October 2015, 21:39   #21
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For a patch that covers a few inches onto where the cone tapers, any tips on how to avoid wrinkles? Dont laugh too hard, this was my first try at a patch

Attachment 109055
What exactly is the purpose of the patch?


You want to lay the material diagonal to the warp and weft so you can stretch the material while burnishing. If you lay parallel, you cannot stretch against the polyester base weave.
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Old 04 October 2015, 22:11   #22
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Hypalon patch

Sorry OP, didnt mean to highjack but maybe your leak was caused by the same thing I did to my boat. Lower rear seams gave out. Richard, you mentioned that being a symptom of under inflation, which I have done while owning my Zodiac. I tried to go by "feel" with the pressure, then finally got a gauge and realized I was no where near the proper psi (1.5 vs 3).

One side let go while I was at speed and last year and I didnt notice fast enough. Water speeding by caught the open seem and tore the rear cone half off. Had that side repaired and he did an identical "patch" but no wrinkles and it looks nice.

A few weeks ago, the other side started to slightly leak at the very bottom so I opened it up and re glued. That patch is just a reinforcement because I have nightmares of being at speed and looking back to see half the cone flapping in the water again. Also, there are some hard scratches on the tubes there that went to the weave). Thanks for the advice Richard, I may experiment again with it but will most likely bring it to the shop. I am glad we have ribnetters here to share good advice. I appreciate the helps guys!
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Old 05 October 2015, 00:38   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tworotorturbo View Post
For a patch that covers a few inches onto where the cone tapers, any tips on how to avoid wrinkles? Dont laugh too hard, this was my first try at a patch

Attachment 109055
tworoto, the patch piece is a curve - you made it straight. Template it first and transfer to the hypalon to cut the exact shape.
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Old 05 October 2015, 08:42   #24
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tworoto, the patch piece is a curve - you made it straight. Template it first and transfer to the hypalon to cut the exact shape.
Even with the curve, it is still important to mind the warp/weft so you can stretch the material properly.

With stern transverse seams, start burnishing in the middle and work outwards. Typically, I try an exterior repair first.

Glue the seam back together, burnish, then clamp over the weekend. On monday, I return and air test at ~250 millibar. If the assembly leaks, I find a close by handle or logo, and cut in to the tubeset. At the leak location on the inside, I grind away any mastic and grind the surface of the hypalon. Then I patch the boat internally, and apply mastic around my patch.

Then, inside/outside patch, and I place the logo or handle back over my exterior patch to hide it.
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Old 06 October 2015, 13:15   #25
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This is one of the most significant areas of a pontoon to repair. If it's not done properly your looking at far more damage and then large replacement pieces or even possibly new tubes.

If you have any doubt, use a professional and ask for photos of what they have done similar in the past.
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