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Old 25 September 2015, 07:27   #11
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Richard M if my instructions are followed the tube will be holding air when the patch is put on as it will have been sealed with the sealant and the reinforcing patch will then be easier to glue to a hard tube .
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Old 01 October 2015, 12:01   #12
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Hey guys

I couldn't get the valve out so I couldn't remove what water there was inside. I'm sure it was a small amount.

I used the sealant from WM and at first it would bubble out the leak. Let it cure for a week. Just filled it completely and the smallest amount of bubbling still occurs.

In terms of patching the outside, it is on the underside and because of its attachments to the fiberglass hull it would be nearly impossible to deflate, bend it facing up and keep it flat enough to do a proper patch job.

Do you think it could be done upside down and inflated??

My other thought is this "flex seal" stuff in a can they sell on Tv. It might be enough I'm guessing, at least to protect the edges of the seem from opening any further on the water in travel. I can also see that going horribly wrong lol.
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Old 01 October 2015, 14:51   #13
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This is what is looks like now. Crusty from the sealant with some of the seals still pulled back a little.
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Old 01 October 2015, 14:52   #14
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Old 01 October 2015, 17:38   #15
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Hello, you have to make sure you have the correct glue and material to repair it as well as the necessary hands on practical skills. Do you have any of these, you need the two pack glue for example as starters, a good acetone cleaner and some correct grade hypalon, not pvc patches. Once you have this stuff sorted I can talk you through it.....
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Old 01 October 2015, 17:48   #16
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yes sir, I do..

I bought a hypalon patch kit with hypalon glue and hypalon patches, sand paper. I haven't moved forward with it yet because:

-last weekend it was still bubbling the internal sealant.
-It has been cool and rainy here.
-as mentioned the awkard positioning on the underside of the boat gives me pause; and...
-I was still hoping the 3M 5200 or Rustoleum LeakSeal spray rubber solution would get the thumbs up from someone

It is supposed to remain cool and rainy for the next week and I thought the hypalon glue needs 70 degree temps (F) to cure. But my hands are your instruments and I'm all ears.

If it has to wait for warmer weather, is there a shorter-term fix so I can take my buddy fishing this saturday?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 01 October 2015, 20:59   #17
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actually let me retract part of that...the glue is not a "two-part" type of deal, it's a use-alone tube.
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Old 02 October 2015, 16:25   #18
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two part is better than single component glue as it gives a stronger bond otherwise tube manufacturers would use the single part
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Old 04 October 2015, 00:12   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porkpiehat View Post
I bought a hypalon patch kit with hypalon glue and hypalon patches, sand paper. I haven't moved forward with it yet because:

-last weekend it was still bubbling the internal sealant.
-It has been cool and rainy here.
-as mentioned the awkard positioning on the underside of the boat gives me pause; and...
-I was still hoping the 3M 5200 or Rustoleum LeakSeal spray rubber solution would get the thumbs up from someone

It is supposed to remain cool and rainy for the next week and I thought the hypalon glue needs 70 degree temps (F) to cure. But my hands are your instruments and I'm all ears.

If it has to wait for warmer weather, is there a shorter-term fix so I can take my buddy fishing this saturday?

Thanks for the help!
Gluing is more dependent on humidity than temperature. It needs to be below 65% RH. Gluing in the rain or in direct sunlight will result in premature failure.

3M 5200 and Rustoleum LeakStop have no place on an inflatable boat.

The only way to repair the boat is to reglue the seam.

You could probably reglue it with one part glue, but the strength and longevity will be poor.

Try to get in there with some 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to sand both pieces of hypalon. Wipe the dust out with a rag of toluene. Then wipe it again. And wipe it again to be sure...allow about 10 min between wipings to ensure evaporation of solvents.

After the toluene has evaporated, apply the glue with a fine brush. I recommend an artist's brush rather than a chip brush in your case. Trim the bristles so they are about 1/2" long. Then simply paint an even coat of glue on all surfaces. Work very quickly with deliberate, quick strokes. Don't just "pack glue in".

Most 1-part glues specify a 20-30 min cure on the 1st coat. On the 2nd coat, allow 5-15 min for curing before pressuring the pieces together.

I recommend having some vice clamps ready with some wood blocks. After the gluing is complete and you have burnished the unglued spot together, fold the material over itself, then position the wood blocks, and clamp them down. Allow 2-3 days for maximum cure strength.

FYI, this gluing should be done while the boat is uninflated.
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Old 04 October 2015, 16:46   #20
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For a patch that covers a few inches onto where the cone tapers, any tips on how to avoid wrinkles? Dont laugh too hard, this was my first try at a patch

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