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Old 10 May 2010, 14:01   #1
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Humber Destroyer Manual??

Just a quick question.

Has anyone got a manual / user guide for a circa 2003 5.5 Destroyer?

I'm not really bothered enough to pay for one from Humber, but if anyone has one, doesn't mind doing a scan of it (assuming it's not too many pages) it would be interesting to read what they say re the draining hull and the order of tube inflation etc.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 10 May 2010, 14:13   #2
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Originally Posted by Mike B View Post
Just a quick question.

Has anyone got a manual / user guide for a circa 2003 5.5 Destroyer?

I'm not really bothered enough to pay for one from Humber, but if anyone has one, doesn't mind doing a scan of it (assuming it's not too many pages) it would be interesting to read what they say re the draining hull and the order of tube inflation etc.

Cheers

Mike
You could try here you may find one.

http://safemanuals.com/index_google....sa=Search#1592
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Old 10 May 2010, 14:21   #3
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Its about 28 pages but mine doesn't say anything about order of inflation.
Whats the draining hull query?
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Old 10 May 2010, 14:47   #4
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Sonar - Cheers I did a brief trawl of the net and couldn't find anything.

Bruce - No specific query, would just be interested to see what they say in general - now I know that it is reasonably sizable I will stump up the readies for one from Humber.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 10 May 2010, 15:12   #5
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A lot of it is about inbuilt fuel tanks, CE certification and nav lights etc, very little useful (IMO) really within the manual that would be worth shelling out more a couple of quid, and maybe not even that........
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Old 10 May 2010, 15:17   #6
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Cheers - in that case I will use the money for a few pints instead!

M
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Old 10 May 2010, 23:39   #7
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A lot of it is about inbuilt fuel tanks, CE certification and nav lights etc, very little useful (IMO) really within the manual that would be worth shelling out more a couple of quid, and maybe not even that........
What Bruce said! A few pints would be a better plan!
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Old 11 May 2010, 07:28   #8
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..... it would be interesting to read what they say re the draining hull and the order of tube inflation etc. ...
Pull the bung from the drain hole on a cold day then refit it, that way, when the hull warms up, its contents will increase in pressure and tend to prevent the ingress of water.

I posted this, re inflating the tubes, a number of years ago and I still use the system ...

With the tube baffles I work from the rear inflating both sides. The cones will be pushed forward, the next will also be pushed forward as will the next. Finally, I inflate the front section to be harder than I'd made the others. This will pressurise all the other sections to the same pressure by forcing the cones back toward their respective sections. It also allows a bit of deflation of any section whilst keeping all the pressures the same because the cones can move to compensate.
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Old 11 May 2010, 07:52   #9
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Pull the bung from the drain hole on a cold day then refit it, that way, when the hull warms up, its contents will increase in pressure and tend to prevent the ingress of water.

I posted this, re inflating the tubes, a number of years ago and I still use the system ...

With the tube baffles I work from the rear inflating both sides. The cones will be pushed forward, the next will also be pushed forward as will the next. Finally, I inflate the front section to be harder than I'd made the others. This will pressurise all the other sections to the same pressure by forcing the cones back toward their respective sections. It also allows a bit of deflation of any section whilst keeping all the pressures the same because the cones can move to compensate.
We do it the other way starting at the bow so the baffles are push back.
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Old 11 May 2010, 08:09   #10
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It doesn't work well the other way because you'd need to equalize the pressures in both rear compartments, which is hardly convenient, unless you connect them together while inflating them. The idea is to both ensure that all compartments are the same pressure without the need to measure the pressure and to ensure the baffles are floating, not under load and have them equalise the pressure to some extent during the air leakage and variation in temperature which normally takes place.
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