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Old 08 May 2014, 02:20   #51
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Humber build quality

Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL View Post
Reply is "Good Afternoon Mr Smith,

I can confirm that the internal structure on all of our crafts are resin
sealed. I hope this helps if you have any queries please do not hesitate
to contact me."

So not primed or glassed.

Not bothered if sealed. Am I right?


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Alex Whittaker / Shedpix Donations for Round Anglesey Macmillan 2014 https://www.justgiving.com/Rib-net


Sell that old piece of wood with tubes stuck on and buy a Ribquest if i was you mate


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Old 08 May 2014, 02:21   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1eyedjim View Post
What is the best way to protect the floor underneath? I am in the process of replacing the floor in my sparrowhawk and will flocoat be sufficient for the underside or will it need to be glassed?
Personally I would laminate the underside of the ply. A thinned coat of resin straight on the ply then a couple of layers of CSM and flowcoat to seal.
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Old 08 May 2014, 03:38   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL View Post
Reply is "Good Afternoon Mr Smith,

I can confirm that the internal structure on all of our crafts are resin
sealed. I hope this helps if you have any queries please do not hesitate
to contact me."

So not primed or glassed.

Not bothered if sealed. Am I right?
I guess it depends on what they mean by resin sealed, obviously there are some on here with much more experience of these things than you n me Paul, to the un-initiated resin sealed does sound like it's been sealed but then if that's acceptable for the under deck surface where it can't be seen, why go to all the trouble of applying a different material to the top of the deck? all very confusing, as is most of what goes on with the various rib builders and their version of what goes into making a solid rib, but as Humber have been in the game for so long you'd like to think they were on the ball with the basics! having said all that, knowing that your rib sits on a mooring each season, then I'd want to be very sure that any water that does get into the hull isn't just providing a nasty environment to attack a "resin sealed" surface. every time I remove the bung from the Revenger I'm surprised by just how much water gets in there, and that's with a self draining deck have you got a hatch you can poke one of those USB camera thingys in through to have a good look around
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Old 08 May 2014, 12:25   #54
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No comment !!!!
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Old 08 May 2014, 12:46   #55
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You would be surprised at the amount of ribs built with plywood being slapped down and chopped strand matt put on the top and the underside ignored!

I think the only way to make a deck that is sealed is on a deck mould. This means the top of the deck is gel coated and the core material can be cover top and bottom with chopped strand matt and then the underside of the deck can be flow coated on the areas that are exposed, ie. not boned on to stringer / bulkheads and the flange around the hull to deck mould....

This practise is not used much as you have to make a mould, which is perceived as being expensive / time consuming.....

It's quicker and easier to make boats a certain way and to a fixed price it would seem. This is not my opinion, just to clarify.
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Old 08 May 2014, 12:49   #56
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Having to choose my words care fully,,

but one has stirred Sumat up,, had a call today to discuss this matter ,
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Old 08 May 2014, 12:57   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alystra View Post
Bit shocking I must say. However, I have never seen a Humber tube end look like the one in the picture, and there's lots of Humbers around here. Nor have I ever seen the Humber 'H' logo placed where that one is either. Perhaps this is the latest version.

If it's a genuine Humber build, I'm really surprised I must say.
Don't be mean Matt...tell em where you took the Picture!
I must say in my experience of Humber RIB's..(we had a couple in our Dive Club)which took and withstood a lot of Abuse! (80's 90's Vintage) they were strongly made and pretty well built...And they had a Reputation to Match.
I can't really comment on the later models/builds and standards may well have slipped...but Nugents Boat is pretty shocking!
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Old 08 May 2014, 13:17   #58
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resin sealed should be totally acceptable for the underside of a deck. If you "glass" it then it's resin and fiberglass fabric, the fabric adds structural integrity for impact and such. I had spent plenty of time on a plywood boat building forum when I was researching how to work with the stuff, I still frequent it. As their entire boats are made with a plywood core they stress the importance of resin coating everything. Fabric is only needed for structural or mechanical (impact abrasion) resistance.

Jason
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Old 08 May 2014, 13:23   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nugent View Post
Having to choose my words care fully,,

but one has stirred Sumat up,, had a call today to discuss this matter ,
not like you to stir summat up Ed
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Old 08 May 2014, 15:37   #60
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My thinking is if its sealed both sides and got screw holes in and water gets in that's what's going to happen them
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