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Old 10 November 2008, 18:01   #21
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Chine walk

seafreak - your chine walking might be cureable - your situation sounds pretty typical for a performance hull. You may also wish to check out my article on "Chine Walking")

Chine walking can arise with most high performance hulls. As the hull accelerates, lift increases and the wetted running surfaces that are required to support the hull are reduced (more Speed = more Lift = less Surface). As the speed increases throughout the velocity range, the hull often gets to a point where the lifting surfaces become very much reduced and the hull is now “balancing” on a small area of the hull. When that surface becomes sufficiently small, it becomes very tricky to “balance” the hull on its vee or pad. The result is a rocking of the hull from side-to-side, from port-chine to starboard-chine, back and forth. This rocking can tend to get a little more extreme with each motion, and so the “balancing” must then be provided by additional driver (steering/throttle/trim) input in order to maintain the hull in a balanced state.

If left unchecked, the boat will rock from side to side with increasing drama. This is because the boat is now “inherently unstable” – meaning that if left alone, the “imbalance” of the hull is more likely to get worse on it’s own, not better (the worse it gets, the worse it gets). If it gets out of hand, you can get into real trouble!

Setup of your hull and driver “seat-time” are the best solutions to the problem. Usually an alteration to the hull, or hull setup and/or modification to your driving methods (read seat-time) will improve the problem. There are definately some things you can do to minimize the problem.
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Old 11 November 2008, 09:21   #22
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Boat name: aquaplane
Make: humber assault 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: opti 115
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thanks for info
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Old 11 November 2008, 09:24   #23
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Jonathan - got your PM. I have sent to you copies of the 2 articles (chinewalking and porpoising). Hope this helps.

If you are interested in any other articles, check out on my website at: aeromarineresearch.com

/Jim
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Old 11 November 2008, 11:02   #24
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Jonathan - thanks for your email. i'm pleased that you found the articles helpful. The advice of your manufacturer seems to be in the right direction. the setup of each boat is always a little different.

As you read in the articles, there is always great advantage to be gained by making changes to your boat's setup. Try these approaches first...
1. Motor height
2. Check & adjust steering
3. Use solid mounts
4. Clean Hull Lines
5. Weight balance of hull
6. Propeller selection

And be sure to allow for sufficient "Seat time" so that you're comfortable with "driving through" the hump zone safely - that's always the most important factor with performance boats - be safe!
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Old 11 November 2008, 12:38   #25
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Whats seat time?

Had a quick search but couldn't find out?
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Old 11 November 2008, 13:04   #26
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for seat time, read experience
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Old 11 November 2008, 15:52   #27
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Country: UK - Wales
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Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
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You could buy yourself a 5.5m Destroyer hull and transfer all your current rigging (engine, console, trailer, etc) over to that.
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.
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then chuck the Insult hull in the skip. I've got a skip, if you need one
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Old 11 November 2008, 18:18   #28
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Make: Humber ocean pro 6.3
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Engine: Mercury 150 opti
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You would get 40 knt out of a 5.5 Destroyer with your opti 115 and have a much better ride with a lot more room in the boat for more seating
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Old 11 November 2008, 18:44   #29
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Now where could he get one of them from?
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Old 11 November 2008, 19:12   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
then chuck the Insult hull in the skip. I've got a skip, if you need one
I second that, want to know where a skip is to put it in?
I am not biased at all, just had one for a few years and couldn't wait till I could afford to get rid of it and get a decent hull...........
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