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Old 05 January 2009, 10:39   #11
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I had problems on releasing the steering wheel from the spindle on mine last year. In the end I unbolted it it and took it the garage gave it a good soak in WD40 or one of the other penetrating oils. I also backed off the locking nut so it still had some threads then attached a puller to the whole set up, a couple of days later after a few more squires and tightening up on the puller, each day I found it separated.
Hope that helps, its always amazes me how little corrosion it needed to make a taper fit lock solid.
Have fun
James
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Old 05 January 2009, 19:28   #12
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Originally Posted by bedajim View Post
So gentle heat on the hub (boiling water) and a freeze spray on the shaft
That may well work or at least break the bond, all the other advice sounds good as well. But patience is the thing you would be amazed how tight things can get with a bit of corrosion if you just keep pulling at it you are more likely to bend the steering wheel than get it off.

Once the penetrating oil has done its thing (I would leave it overnight) put the nut back on to protect the thread and to restrain the wheel when it eventually does give. Try and get hold of a soft metal drift and a hammer and give the shaft a good sharp thump if someone else can pull the wheel rearwards at the same time that will help, if you get no joy then spray some more oil on and leave it. When you reassemble it put copperslip on the shaft.
Best of luck.
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Old 05 January 2009, 19:49   #13
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When you reassemble it put copperslip on the shaft.
Don't use coppaslip on a boat. Ever. It's rather good at promoting galvanic corrosion.

High zinc content grease or specific marine anti-seize grease is what you need.
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Old 06 January 2009, 03:22   #14
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Don't use coppaslip on a boat. Ever. It's rather good at promoting galvanic corrosion.

High zinc content grease or specific marine anti-seize grease is what you need.
Molyslip http://www.molyslip.co.uk/anti_sieze_compounds the manufacturer of Copaslip® specifically recommend their product in conditions such as high humidity and salinity, they even mention the marine inviroment in their write up. I have used it myself with no problems (yet ).

If you have a prejudice against copper then there are products such as Never-Seez [SIZE=3]http://www.bostik-us.com/TDS/TDSFiles/NSMarinersChoice.pdf that do not contain copper I have used this on aircraft engines but not on a boat, I may give it a try.
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Old 06 January 2009, 04:47   #15
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Molyslip http://www.molyslip.co.uk/anti_sieze_compounds the manufacturer of Copaslip® specifically recommend their product in conditions such as high humidity and salinity, they even mention the marine inviroment in their write up. I have used it myself with no problems (yet ).

If you have a prejudice against copper then there are products such as Never-Seez [SIZE=3]http://www.bostik-us.com/TDS/TDSFiles/NSMarinersChoice.pdf that do not contain copper I have used this on aircraft engines but not on a boat, I may give it a try.

Hmmm... Copaslip itself may be ok then given what they say about insulating properties (but I still wouldn't use it) but the 'proprietary copper based anti-seize greases' I've used are often almost completely gone leaving just a thin film of copper behind. There's absolutely no way I'd put that in a high salinity environment.
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Old 06 January 2009, 09:46   #16
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We can only give our best advice, just because a manufacture has said that a product is suitable doesn’t mean that our own experiences will back this up, not everything does what it says on the tin, especially when another company copies a product.
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Old 06 January 2009, 13:40   #17
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Mm... some good advice...but.. the guy said he had problems "unscrewing" and the photos show the nut still in place. PlusGas..NOT WD40.. all over..leave to soak and then someone holds the wheel and an air powered nut runner/ Impact wrench should do the trick.. if you ain't got one try towing it to your local tyre shop and bunging the tyre monkey a couple of quid to do it for you.... Then the next stage is removing the wheel from the shaft.. see above posts for different methods...
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Old 06 January 2009, 15:37   #18
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If you get the nut undone, i always use 2 shallow gradient wooden wedges either side of the main shaft. Ideally lined up over the screw holes that secure the plastic surround.
Once you have the wedges in place and with a gentle tap from a mallet to lock them in place.
Then a good blow with the mallet onto each should do the trick. If not, keep the wedges in place, and a swift blow with the brass drift mentioned above onto the nut / shaft.

When you come to reapply, "duralac" is the best solution to apply to prevent corrosion and bonding.

If it doesnt come off with this method, chances are that the internal workings of the helm could and most likely would on the water at the worst possible time.
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Old 06 January 2009, 20:13   #19
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Mm... some good advice...but.. the guy said he had problems "unscrewing" and the photos show the nut still in place. PlusGas..NOT WD40.. all over..leave to soak and then someone holds the wheel and an air powered nut runner/ Impact wrench should do the trick.. if you ain't got one try towing it to your local tyre shop and bunging the tyre monkey a couple of quid to do it for you.... Then the next stage is removing the wheel from the shaft.. see above posts for different methods...
Yep.Bang on now I've read the post properly-specially about not using WD40. It's worth putting a blowtorch onto the nut CAREFULLY and for a couple of seconds only just to dry the plusgas off the nut before you try to remove it too. One of the big drawbacks of penetrating fluids is that it makes the tools slip if the nuts aren't perfect.
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Old 07 January 2009, 04:01   #20
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Then the next stage is removing the wheel from the shaft.. see above posts for different methods...
Tis not a problem. As I said angle grinder and chuck the lot in a skip and start again, manky old steering wheel anyway.

Pete
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