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Old 07 June 2005, 13:27   #11
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Bruce, you frustrate me. I told you this type of damage was likely when you were having your boat built and you were asking for advice. I recommended you have the bow protection extended right down to the hull. Now you know why.
Do you think it would be possible to bend that findering around the damaged area?

Ours comes down to just above the damaged area, and i cant see how you would stick it to such a tight bend.
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Old 07 June 2005, 13:58   #12
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Bruce, that is a critical area. If the hypalon joining strip fails, you've got the start of a tear which will allow the tubes to part from the hull. It needs new hypalon over the damage followed by a considerably larger piece over the top of the first one and then the snubbing strake taken down as far as you could possibly envisage damage occuring. The additional snubber could be joined to the present section by undercutting the end of the present piece so that the new piece fits into that undercut. With good work, the joint could be pretty sound.

It frequently surprises me how little boatbuilders appear to know, or bother to acknowledge, about the actual usage of a rib. Consols are an area where I'm constantly surprised by poor design. IMHO, as usual, of course.


Edit: I've just had a peak at your pic in full size. It looks to me as though there are air pockets trapped in the hypalon overlaps. You might like to get them to do this properly too.

Oops, I think I might be in trouble now. "Maybe it's an optical illusion."......he said, backpedalling.
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Old 07 June 2005, 14:57   #13
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http://www.compassmarine.co.uk/produ...?CategoryID=48

The fenderstep looks ideal
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Old 07 June 2005, 16:38   #14
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Bruce,
Very sorry to hear of your misfortune that must have made you slightly cross! Being somewhat of a newcomer I'm not exactly sure as to how your damage occurred, I gather that when the Scorpion was moved this slackened off your mooring lines and allowed Farfetched to move sufficently to cause the damage? If so what should the Scorpion owner have done to prevent any damage, was it simply a case of tightening your mooring lines?
(sorry if this is a simple question but living in Cornwall I've yet to see another Rib on the water let alone had chance to moor alongside one! )
Regards
Kernow
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Old 07 June 2005, 17:13   #15
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we normally have a minimum of 2 thicknesses of fabric in the bows sometimes as many as 5 thicknesses and then overlay this with vertical strips of flat rubbing strake . we also wrap a layer of fabric around the edge of the flange before fitting the tubes the also helps to take some of the hardness out of the edge
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Old 07 June 2005, 18:23   #16
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To answer Kernow's question:

The Scorpion was moored alongside a secondary jetty which joined at 90 degrees to a longer jetty.

Her nose was secured a reasonable distance from the longer main jetty.

We were told to moor alongside her to her right. We tied up to the cleat on the main jetty at her bow loosely. We tied up off our A frame onto the Scorpion's A frame. We ran an additional line from the Scorpion's A frame to my console, which helped hold Farfetched back from the main jetty.

Had the Scorpion taken our lines off his boat and tied them both up to where his aft line was originally attached onto the secondary jetty (the lines were long enough) then Farfetched would have stayed clear of the main jetty.

He only tied our A frame line relatively to the cleat on the secondary jetty, allowing Farfetched to swing towards the main jetty, into the gap left by his rib, and nuzzle and rub against that jetty.

Tombuoy, who was triple attached to our right, also swung inwards to the left, rubbing her nose on the jetty also.

Hope this makes sense. Have attached a couple of photos to help make the geometry clearer.
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Old 07 June 2005, 18:39   #17
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Gosh Bruce...just caught this thread.


So sorry this happened to your beautiful RIB.

Hope it can be sorted soon,


missus
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Old 07 June 2005, 18:42   #18
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Considering the repair etc in more detail.

I attach three photos. One shows the bubbles - air bubbles - mentioned by jwalker. Are these serious? How do they get corrected?

The second two show how far the damage extends around the bottom of the tube. If I had simply run the snubber (fairlead - whatever the correct term is) down to the bottom of the tube, as jwalker suggests, there is still an area to either side of the snubber which might have been damaged.
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Old 07 June 2005, 18:45   #19
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Originally Posted by brucehawsker
Considering the repair etc in more detail.
I attach three photos. One shows the bubbles - air bubbles - mentioned by jwalker. Are these serious? How do they get corrected?
If I'm looking at the right part, it appears to be an area where the grey underlayer stops (looks as if the bow underlayer is two pieces, too.)

May not be bubbled at all.

jky
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Old 07 June 2005, 18:45   #20
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Final question for the night. Does this damage need to be sorted soon or can it be left to September when she goes back for her 1 year service - warranty sort out?

Thanks for the help, support, ideas and sympathy. Please don't forget Dave and Harry in their hour of need too
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