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Old 03 October 2009, 17:00   #31
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Looks good. What thickness ply is that? Still haven't got round to finishing mine; 2/3 of the deck is in.
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Old 03 October 2009, 17:33   #32
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MDT and Tim,
something I can't work out is how you glass the underside down on a searider deck. You've only got a small area where it comes into contact with the hull haven't you?
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Old 03 October 2009, 18:50   #33
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MDT and Tim,
something I can't work out is how you glass the underside down on a searider deck. You've only got a small area where it comes into contact with the hull haven't you?
Right then I have used 9mm marine ply. This is braced via ribs. I have cut the hull out right out till the hull and there is about an inch of deck to glue the hull to.

I have stuck the deck down in 60cm sections so is quite easy to sort out the supports and glass the underside as you go.

I shall post some photos if you would like ?
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Old 08 October 2009, 17:32   #34
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Come on then lets see some pictures............

About to start on exactly the same job on a 4m so trying to get as many hints and tips as possible!
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Old 08 October 2009, 17:37   #35
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I flo-coated the underside of the ply, and then bonded the deck sections onto the hull using a product made by the Sikaflex people (high strength component bonding compound or something, £50 a tube!). I then fiberglassed around the edges and over the top of the deck (there is a decent amount of hull to glass onto). As has been said there is still one more section of deck to go in (did it in three sections). Once all is in and glassed over, I will flo-coat it and install the console.
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Old 08 October 2009, 17:49   #36
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Come on then lets see some pictures............

About to start on exactly the same job on a 4m so trying to get as many hints and tips as possible!
shall get some photos tomorrow for you showing how I have done the floor and under it. not saying it is right mind you
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Old 09 October 2009, 04:44   #37
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Thanks for the info Tim and MDT.
As your keeping the hull original Tim it's your way that most interest me. Looking at MDT's pictures of the hull with the deck removed it looks such a small surface area to bond too.
And did one tube bond the whole lot? (50 quid )
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Old 09 October 2009, 05:23   #38
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It will have used three tubes when I'm done.
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Old 09 October 2009, 06:07   #39
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Looking at MDT's pictures of the hull with the deck removed it looks such a small surface area to bond too.
There is over an inch of hull that is available for bonding the deck to on each side. But this is still almost a meter wide so there would be quite a lot of flex in the deck so I have braced it with ribs and glassed these in to provide support.

And SO far the deck I have replaced and the bow locker is ROCK solid. I have used west system fairing compound mixed in with resin to seat the new deck into the hull. £7 spent so far plus the resin. It is top stuff you can mix it up to the consistency you want and flow it into the gap between the ply and the hull.

Shall take some photos tonight unless the red wine calls stronger than the garage.
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Old 09 October 2009, 06:35   #40
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There is over an inch of hull that is available for bonding the deck to on each side. But this is still almost a meter wide so there would be quite a lot of flex in the deck so I have braced it with ribs and glassed these in to provide support.

And SO far the deck I have replaced and the bow locker is ROCK solid. I have used west system fairing compound mixed in with resin to seat the new deck into the hull. £7 spent so far plus the resin. It is top stuff you can mix it up to the consistency you want and flow it into the gap between the ply and the hull.

Shall take some photos tonight unless the red wine calls stronger than the garage.
I think you've done it the best way if the flooding hull is to be permanently no more mate. Where as Tim's approach still leaves that option.

How much weight do you think the rib supports will add?
Oh and
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