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Old 17 May 2013, 18:09   #31
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Nice idea but it'd become tiring on the hands after a while and you'd have to keep a grip round all parts of the wheel. You'd also be relying on a rotating contact round the wheel continuing to work.

I have a far simpler idea.

Run a version of an 'alternator field disconnect' on the ignition swich, so you can ONLY stop the motor (ie, stop the alternator putting out power) by pulling off the kill cord.
Turning the ignition switch to 'off' won't stop the motor so the kill cord has to be removed and refitted to restart the motor. Once the motor has stopped, the ignition key will work as normal.


Simple and easy to fit and to retrofit (would simply mean a replacement ignition switch).


It's very hard to leave a killcord dangling if you have to remove it to stop the motor.
Doesn't have to be a rotating contact as the ring would be attached to the wheel (and rotate with it), and I don't see how it would be tiring as the pressure to pull back the ring doesn't need to be particularly heavy.

As for taking both hands off the wheel for a few moments, the trip switch could have a delayed activation of say 5 to 10 seconds.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:16   #32
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It'd need to be a rotating contact from the wheel to the console, unless you want a piece of wire that twists 4 times every time you go lock to lock.

Ref the 'tiring', try holding a motorbike throttle for a long period at the same opening. Even with a minimal return spring you get white knuckles.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:22   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
It'd need to be a rotating contact from the wheel to the console, unless you want a piece of wire that twists 4 times every time you go lock to lock.

Ref the 'tiring', try holding a motorbike throttle for a long period at the same opening. Even with a minimal return spring you get white knuckles.
Not if it was a battery powered remote switch.

And you can at least change hands on the steering wheel, which is not something you can do with a bike throttle.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:27   #34
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Not if it was a battery powered remote switch.

And you can at least change hands on the steering wheel, which is not something you can do with a bike throttle.
How are you going to connect it to the engine loom?

It's getting more and more complex, with more potential fail points.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:29   #35
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10 seconds at 20kts = 100m.
If the boat goes straight thats a big swim.
If the boat goes circular based on the pictures on the Kill Cord thread that boat was circling in a radius < 2 boat lengths. Call a boat 8m, circumfrance = 2 x Pi r. 8 x 2 x 2 x 3.14 = 100m. Ouch.

Too many situations where you may want 1 hand spare so if 1 has to be on the wheel you have to let go the throttle...

Quote:
Turning the ignition switch to 'off' won't stop the motor so the kill cord has to be removed and refitted to restart the motor. Once the motor has stopped, the ignition key will work as normal.
I suspect you actually need to be able to start the engine and use it but in some restricted fashion. If you stall in a bad palce you want to trun the key and go no faffing taking the kill on and off. You wont care in that case if its flashing/buzzing at you. Perhaps you can live with only minimal revs.
My Car bleeps if I drive above 15mph without my seat belt on.

However, none of this would help the situation described where people may be changing helm without changing kill cord wearer...
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:30   #36
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My idea would be to have a secondary 'ring' behind the steering wheel that has to be pulled back against the wheel before the engine will start. As soon as that ring is released, the engine would stop. And to stop anyone from simply tie-wrapping the ring to the wheel, the 'trip' action of the ring being drawn back would have to take place within a defined time (say 3 seconds) before the starter circuit is activated.
Any safety device is open to abuse, in this case the ring will be taped to the wheel once the engine is started!
As stated the only way is education. there's already a simple working device in place. it just needs using.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:34   #37
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How are you going to connect it to the engine loom?

It's getting more and more complex, with more potential fail points.
No idea (yet), but it can't be that difficult. I lock/unlock my car with a remote key. I change channel/volume/etc on my TV with a remote. They're pretty reliable. I'm not saying it's a simple solution, but we all seem to agree that education/legislation will not stop these kind of accidents from happening. Surely white knuckles are better than lost limbs or worse.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:35   #38
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I suspect you actually need to be able to start the engine and use it but in some restricted fashion. If you stall in a bad palce you want to trun the key and go no faffing taking the kill on and off.
No reason you can't do that-all it means is you can't STOP the motor on the ignition KEY-ie, only the killcord can stop the motor. For all intents and purposes,the ignition works as normal apart from that.

The 'Alternator field disconnect' idea is just to stop someone rope starting the motor and doing a runner with your boat and to stop anyone leaving the engine running with the key in the off position, cauing alternator damage. Otherwise , you could simply remove the 'stop' wire from the back of the ignition switch.
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You wont care in that case if its flashing/buzzing at you. Perhaps you can live with only minimal revs.
My Car bleeps if I drive above 15mph without my seat belt on.

However, none of this would help the situation described where people may be changing helm without changing kill cord wearer...
No, agreed.There's not really anything that'll do that apart from a wireless killcord with all the complications that gives.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:40   #39
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No idea (yet), but it can't be that difficult. I lock/unlock my car with a remote key. I change channel/volume/etc on my TV with a remote. They're pretty reliable. I'm not saying it's a simple solution, but we all seem to agree that education/legislation will not stop these kind of accidents from happening. Surely white knuckles are better than lost limbs or worse.
Agreed, but you don't operate all of those while being subjected to a salt shower and if the batteries fail you don't have to change them while being thrown around.
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Old 17 May 2013, 18:40   #40
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Any safety device is open to abuse, in this case the ring will be taped to the wheel once the engine is started!
As stated the only way is education. there's already a simple working device in place. it just needs using.
Also easily overcome. Simply have a 10 minute timer with an audible/visual warning that requires the ring to be periodically released momentarily before being re-engaged. If you don't do so then the trip switch kills the engine. You'd soon get fed up with releasing the tape/string/clip every 10 minutes.

The 'simple' device is too simply ignored/abused.
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