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Old 29 June 2011, 11:36   #11
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By the way, before rotating the switch, I think (you'd need to verify this with an ohmmeter) that the switch operates both ways (open or short when activated) depending on which terminals are connected. Might simply need to move one wire on the back.
good point could be dramatically wrong otherwise!

will be testing / playing with the boat on the Thames - so actually MOB can probably stand up and walk to the bank in places - so safe way of learning the boat - but part of buying the boat is teaching children safe usage, so we will do controlled MOB with kill cords and other boats around etc as drills anyway - so def. will have two or more!

I am assuming that it is a kill cord such as this: ???
Force 4 Kill Cord- Mercury/Mariner - Only 7.95 - Force 4 Chandlery


Quote:
Other useful SR4 fuel tank facts - you can fit 2x Hulk 30L tanks between the transom braces. Granted, you loose all your aft deck space!

Distance wise my old SR4 with a 30 worked out about 0.8 / 0.9-ish L/mile as per the rib norm!
Awesome info - will need to check on mine as there is an additional seat in the back there: as per photo - but would be ideal as I prefer not to be using the space by the engine for people etc... however - do you not want the weight forward? but maybe putting petrol there and people forward is best?!

Alasdair
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Old 29 June 2011, 11:45   #12
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Originally Posted by jyasaki

I agonized over this but eventually replaced my Yamaha kill switch (Little red button held out by the key) with the Merc type (the same as the OP has: toggle switch activated by a loop around the switch.)

My reasoning was that it's much more intuitive to simply flip a switch and restart, versus: Find the spare kill switch key, get something to pry out the button because you can't do it by hand, insert the key, start engine, figure out how to maneuver back to me.

I have a spare kill key in the console, but for a quick MOB recovery, I wouldn't insist they use it (especially if it's me in the water.)

Other folks may have different opinions/practices.

By the way, before rotating the switch, I think (you'd need to verify this with an ohmmeter) that the switch operates both ways (open or short when activated) depending on which terminals are connected. Might simply need to move one wire on the back.

jky
My point exactly. I prefer them. In emergency MOB situation I'd be more concerned about getting the guy back onboard rather than worrying about falling out myself and not having the cord fitted (although it is possible i guess) and as I said right at the start DON'T be tempted to use it without the cord at any other time....it's pointless having it then.

With regards to rotating, the wiring stays in the same location the housing rotates around with the switch, it's held in place the same way as the ignition barrel with a threaded plastic "nut" which tightens and clamps both sides together. You can only get to that from inside the control box. Your not actually altering the electrical positions or workings of the switch, if you look at it's current position the "run" position is to the right and that will simply revert back to the top. I'm not entirely sure why somebody would have moved it in the first place mind

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Old 30 June 2011, 03:50   #13
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Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards View Post
With regards to rotating, the wiring stays in the same location the housing rotates around with the switch, it's held in place the same way as the ignition barrel with a threaded plastic "nut" which tightens and clamps both sides together. You can only get to that from inside the control box. Your not actually altering the electrical positions or workings of the switch, if you look at it's current position the "run" position is to the right and that will simply revert back to the top. I'm not entirely sure why somebody would have moved it in the first place mind
I understood what you were saying before; and agree that it is possible that someone turned it around (though I can't see any reason either, unless they had no idea how it was supposed to work.)

But, if it's a simply a miswire, it's probably easier to swap the wire from one end of the switch to the other. As I recall, the switch is fairly well buried in that little half-housing thing. Might be wrong on that; I didn't look at it all that closely, and now it's installed in the console, so I can't see it too well. Options are usually good things to have.
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Old 30 June 2011, 03:56   #14
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Originally Posted by jyasaki

I understood what you were saying before; and agree that it is possible that someone turned it around (though I can't see any reason either, unless they had no idea how it was supposed to work.)

But, if it's a simply a miswire, it's probably easier to swap the wire from one end of the switch to the other. As I recall, the switch is fairly well buried in that little half-housing thing. Might be wrong on that; I didn't look at it all that closely, and now it's installed in the console, so I can't see it too well. Options are usually good things to have.
Sorry but unless I'm missing something the wiring has nothing to do with it. The problem here is that the OP cannot get to the little gap at the "top" of the housing used to push the switch down, as it's been rotated clockwise and is blocked by the side of the boat ? So what does the wiring have to do with it ?

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Old 30 June 2011, 04:25   #15
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Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards View Post
Sorry but unless I'm missing something the wiring has nothing to do with it. The problem here is that the OP cannot get to the little gap at the "top" of the housing used to push the switch down, as it's been rotated clockwise and is blocked by the side of the boat ? So what does the wiring have to do with it ?

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
That seems to be the case - will have a closer look tomorrow I hope...

Alasdair
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Old 30 June 2011, 04:38   #16
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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
IMy reasoning was that it's much more intuitive to simply flip a switch and restart, versus: Find the spare kill switch key, get something to pry out the button because you can't do it by hand, insert the key, start engine, figure out how to maneuver back to me.
Agreed. Which is why my spare clip is right by the button!
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Old 30 June 2011, 04:52   #17
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Agreed. Which is why my spare clip is right by the button!
of course the real answer is to not fall overboard

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Old 30 June 2011, 11:32   #18
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I think you will be able to fit one of these in the console!
NEW 22L OUTBOARD FUEL TANK & LINE AND GAUGE BOAT RIBS | eBay UK
Outboard Fuel tank red with gauge, Easy carry handle | eBay UK
I have one in my Sr4 it will last all day normally!

Nick
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Old 30 June 2011, 11:38   #19
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Thanks Nick - looks good!

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Old 08 July 2011, 16:15   #20
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Fuel cosumption

I have the sr4 with a Mariner 40.

Just pottering for an afternoon ie 3/4 throttle drains about 30 litres.

Canarfon to puffin island through the menia and back to the launch site cruising used a full 25l tank and about 5 litres of the spare that was 3/4 throttle and with 4 people aboard.
However we didnot travel in a straight line and spent quite a bit of time messing around. As im sure you will too.
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