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Old 22 February 2009, 14:28   #1
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Gluing rubbing strakes

Need to glue two rubbing strakes the full width of my RIB. How much glue would you say I would need? And advice on doing it most welcome and where to buy from
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Old 22 February 2009, 16:18   #2
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what you need to do is very thoroughly prepare your surfaces, they have to be roughed up very well! You can do it with a plastic wire brush in a drill. I'm actually doing this at the moment so if you pm me your number I'll text you some pictures of the roughness.

The problem with doing it at the moment is the glue does not like the cold and you'd best wait for a month if you can't you'll need to ramp the hardener up in the glue a touch.25% say

tools needed
Bostik 2402 probably 1/2 a litre
Drill
Plastic wire brush http://www.tooled-up.com/MicroCatego...=3877#prodlist
Heat Gun
Paint brush
Thinners
Masking tape
Roller or heavy scraper.
Buddy or two
disposable latex gloves

the Strake will be more flexible if it's warm so keep it in the house near a rad for a day or so before you go for it.

After prepping the strake and tubes wipe down with a rag and thinners. after a while waft the heat gun over the areas to ensure evaporation of thinners.

Masking tape either side of the glue line will ensure no overspill of glue but you want 10 mm width more glue on the tubes than the strake.

Mix the glue up with a small amount of thinners 10% and hardener leave for a minute then paint a thin coat on both surfaces when this dry do it again. previous to this you will have put on 2 pairs of the disposable gloves. It means you can get rid of the top pair when it gets too gluey. When this coat becomes tacky you have to do the sticking

Now that you and your buddy have gotten wasted on the glue fumes the job becomes a lot more fun

When you apply the strake it's a one time hit so you need to get it right. Also you have to stretch the strake on, pull it firmly as you are fitting it. when it's in place work the heat gun over it and rub it in firmly with the roller.

I have one of those brushes PM me your address and I'll send it to you we might have some glue too. If Christopher, Ribshop or Paul Tilley disagree with me then take there advice as they all have much more experience than me
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Old 23 February 2009, 06:51   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave View Post
what you need to do is very thoroughly prepare your surfaces, they have to be roughed up very well! You can do it with a plastic wire brush in a drill. I'm actually doing this at the moment so if you pm me your number I'll text you some pictures of the roughness.

The problem with doing it at the moment is the glue does not like the cold and you'd best wait for a month if you can't you'll need to ramp the hardener up in the glue a touch.25% say

tools needed
Bostik 2402 probably 1/2 a litre
Drill
Plastic wire brush http://www.tooled-up.com/MicroCatego...=3877#prodlist
Heat Gun
Paint brush
Thinners
Masking tape
Roller or heavy scraper.
Buddy or two
disposable latex gloves

the Strake will be more flexible if it's warm so keep it in the house near a rad for a day or so before you go for it.

After prepping the strake and tubes wipe down with a rag and thinners. after a while waft the heat gun over the areas to ensure evaporation of thinners.

Masking tape either side of the glue line will ensure no overspill of glue but you want 10 mm width more glue on the tubes than the strake.

Mix the glue up with a small amount of thinners 10% and hardener leave for a minute then paint a thin coat on both surfaces when this dry do it again. previous to this you will have put on 2 pairs of the disposable gloves. It means you can get rid of the top pair when it gets too gluey. When this coat becomes tacky you have to do the sticking

Now that you and your buddy have gotten wasted on the glue fumes the job becomes a lot more fun

When you apply the strake it's a one time hit so you need to get it right. Also you have to stretch the strake on, pull it firmly as you are fitting it. when it's in place work the heat gun over it and rub it in firmly with the roller.

I have one of those brushes PM me your address and I'll send it to you we might have some glue too. If Christopher, Ribshop or Paul Tilley disagree with me then take there advice as they all have much more experience than me
Stu, your a star mate. PM on it's way
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Old 23 February 2009, 12:03   #4
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sound advice there, stu knows his sh*t - and I've seen him at work - theres not much room for error at all when applying patches etc, so practise it a few times without glue to see what your up against - best of luck, when you get shit hot at it you can do mine!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave View Post
what you need to do is very thoroughly prepare your surfaces, they have to be roughed up very well! You can do it with a plastic wire brush in a drill. I'm actually doing this at the moment so if you pm me your number I'll text you some pictures of the roughness.

The problem with doing it at the moment is the glue does not like the cold and you'd best wait for a month if you can't you'll need to ramp the hardener up in the glue a touch.25% say

tools needed
Bostik 2402 probably 1/2 a litre
Drill
Plastic wire brush http://www.tooled-up.com/MicroCatego...=3877#prodlist
Heat Gun
Paint brush
Thinners
Masking tape
Roller or heavy scraper.
Buddy or two
disposable latex gloves

the Strake will be more flexible if it's warm so keep it in the house near a rad for a day or so before you go for it.

After prepping the strake and tubes wipe down with a rag and thinners. after a while waft the heat gun over the areas to ensure evaporation of thinners.

Masking tape either side of the glue line will ensure no overspill of glue but you want 10 mm width more glue on the tubes than the strake.

Mix the glue up with a small amount of thinners 10% and hardener leave for a minute then paint a thin coat on both surfaces when this dry do it again. previous to this you will have put on 2 pairs of the disposable gloves. It means you can get rid of the top pair when it gets too gluey. When this coat becomes tacky you have to do the sticking

Now that you and your buddy have gotten wasted on the glue fumes the job becomes a lot more fun

When you apply the strake it's a one time hit so you need to get it right. Also you have to stretch the strake on, pull it firmly as you are fitting it. when it's in place work the heat gun over it and rub it in firmly with the roller.

I have one of those brushes PM me your address and I'll send it to you we might have some glue too. If Christopher, Ribshop or Paul Tilley disagree with me then take there advice as they all have much more experience than me
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Old 23 February 2009, 12:39   #5
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Originally Posted by ollyit View Post
sound advice there, stu knows his sh*t - and I've seen him at work - theres not much room for error at all when applying patches etc, so practise it a few times without glue to see what your up against - best of luck, when you get shit hot at it you can do mine!
Cheers Olly. I'm a little apprehensive about doing it now.
Worst thing about living around here is that you can't pop around to someone who's done this before and say "Giz a hand mate!"
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Old 24 February 2009, 11:11   #6
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Are the strakes PVC?

A layer or two of PVC glue (which probably means some type of urethane based adhesive) on the strake, then a second (or third) coat of your hypalon glue, will ensure that the adhesives stick well to their respective substrates.

The different adhesives will bond to each other quite well.

jky
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Old 24 February 2009, 14:40   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP View Post
Need to glue two rubbing strakes the full width of my RIB.
Do you mean length. in which case are you doing the whoel strake from bow to stern?

If so then why in two pieces?
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Old 24 February 2009, 15:14   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
Do you mean length. in which case are you doing the whoel strake from bow to stern?

If so then why in two pieces?
Yeah length. Saying width because I was looking at it side on. Time to up the dosage!
See photo, what you can't see there is the lower strake missing
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Old 24 February 2009, 15:29   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP View Post
Yeah length. Saying width because I was looking at it side on. Time to up the dosage!
See photo, what you can't see there is the lower strake missing
OK so why two pieces you could do that with one long piece all the way round...

Tips from me include after you have applied the strake run a bead of sikaflex under the bottom edge of the strake particulary the last 1/3 of the strake on either side toward the back end.

Then Dip your finger in some fairy liquid and water (50/50) then smooth over the sikaflex for glass perfect finish. This will prevent water spraying up and lifting that bottom edge off the tube.


I would wait for summer to do this or find some space indoors that can be heated.

Prime the strake with a coat of glue and leave to dry for 24 hours then apply another priming coat when you do the first priming coat Hypalon then one final coat So 3 coats on the strake and 2 on the Hypalon (you could do 3 on the Hypalon if you wanted.)

Otherwise its not as scary as it sounds just be methodical and prep the areas well.
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Old 24 February 2009, 15:35   #10
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Has anyone used Cyanoacrylate for such jobs - it is very good on all sorts of rubbers. i know it sets too quick but it can wick into a joint by capillary action.
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