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Old 25 February 2009, 22:16   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
OK so why two pieces you could do that with one long piece all the way round...

Tips from me include after you have applied the strake run a bead of sikaflex under the bottom edge of the strake particulary the last 1/3 of the strake on either side toward the back end.

Then Dip your finger in some fairy liquid and water (50/50) then smooth over the sikaflex for glass perfect finish. This will prevent water spraying up and lifting that bottom edge off the tube.


I would wait for summer to do this or find some space indoors that can be heated.

Prime the strake with a coat of glue and leave to dry for 24 hours then apply another priming coat when you do the first priming coat Hypalon then one final coat So 3 coats on the strake and 2 on the Hypalon (you could do 3 on the Hypalon if you wanted.)

Otherwise its not as scary as it sounds just be methodical and prep the areas well.
Best photo to hand sorry
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Old 25 February 2009, 23:03   #22
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Was there a D fender all the way around before, or has just one of the 5 flat strip fenders come away on each side?
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Old 25 February 2009, 23:20   #23
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Was there a D fender all the way around before, or has just one of the 5 flat strip fenders come away on each side?
I'm not sure mate. All I know is the very bottom is missing as it's covered in old glue. The centre doesn't look like it's had anything on.
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Old 26 February 2009, 14:59   #24
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Originally Posted by codprawn View Post
It could have advatages. If a rubbing strake is peeling slightly at the edges you could run a bit of superglue along the edge and just press together. If it fails you will have to prepare it properly anyway. Sounds like there would be nothing to lose by trying it!!!
True enough, if it failed, you'd be back where you started (aside from a little CA on the surfaces) but I think the OP was doing a fresh install, not a repair. In his case, if it failed, you'd have two long pieces of strake at the bottom of the sea.

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Old 26 February 2009, 17:14   #25
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that rogue wave dosnt know what hes talking about ,put the strake in the oven at gas mark 10 for a couple of hrs thatll make it soft
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Old 26 February 2009, 17:19   #26
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that rogue wave dosnt know what hes talking about ,put the strake in the oven at gas mark 10 for a couple of hrs thatll make it soft

Wish I was closer to you Paul, I'd pay you to do it.
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Old 27 February 2009, 09:24   #27
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Oi Tilley

Your'e the last person I need reading this thread. Don't you dare rebuild our 12m toobs with CA glue! See you on the 6th
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Old 27 February 2009, 11:41   #28
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Unusually for me I agree with Codders. Cyanoacrylate adhesive is a superb rubber glue. Whilst totally unsuitable for applying a whole rubbing strake, it is a very good adhesive to carry aboard your rib. Unlike hypalon adhesive which hates water, cyano will work fine in damp conditions. Because it is hard in texture, one might consider it to be incompatible with a material such as rubber but it is not inflexible and it can deal fairly well with flexing.

Here's a wee test I did a few of minutes ago. It's hypalon fabric, the glue area is about 8x6 and it's been stuck together for less than 2 minutes so not even fully cured. The spring balance is pulled to about 20lbs. Apologies for the poor quality - it's tricky taking a photo with one hand while pulling a balance with the other!

That pic is the neoprene side and it actually took the full load on the balance without failing. Another test was with the hypalon sides together and it failed at about 22lbs. Still pretty good for a quick joint. The material has been kicking about my garage for years and it had no cleaning prior to gluing so kinda representative of an emergency boat repair.

Also is a pic of my thumbnail which split at the cuticle last October. Cyano superglue has held it together since and prevented infection, and all sorts of other stuff, getting in. It's good for first aid on skin too.

Don't knock it until you've tried it.
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Old 27 February 2009, 15:26   #29
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Unlike hypalon adhesive which hates water, cyano will work fine in damp conditions.
I think you'll find that water cures CA adhesives. As I recall, the emergency procedure for a large spill is to water it down (cures the adhesive, allows scraping it up without bonding clean-up tools to floor and such.)

Given that, damp may be OK, but wet may set off a prematurely cured bond.


Quote:
Because it is hard in texture, one might consider it to be incompatible with a material such as rubber but it is not inflexible and it can deal fairly well with flexing.
There are many, many different CA formulations. Some are very brittle. Others have some plasticizers or something that make it flexible. I have no idea what the relative bond strengths are, though.


Quote:
Here's a wee test I did a few of minutes ago. It's hypalon fabric, the glue area is about 8x6 and it's been stuck together for less than 2 minutes so not even fully cured. The spring balance is pulled to about 20lbs. Apologies for the poor quality - it's tricky taking a photo with one hand while pulling a balance with the other!
Pic quality was fine. Though a real mariner would have tied a line to the scale, pulled it taut, and hitched it off to something.

The test comes as the material flexes and stretches, as boats do as the tubes expand, contract, and bounce over waves. Not sure you could simulate that while taking pictures, though.

Quote:
Also is a pic of my thumbnail which split at the cuticle last October. Cyano superglue has held it together since and prevented infection, and all sorts of other stuff, getting in. It's good for first aid on skin too.
It's a great emergency wound closure. Stings like hell, though, if you need to close a slit.



Quote:
Don't knock it until you've tried it.
I have tried it. I've seen others try it. As you said, it's a good (perhaps great) emergency bonding agent. In an emergency, use whatever you have at hand. That said, I still would not recommend it as a primary installation adhesive, which is where this started.

jky
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Old 27 February 2009, 16:30   #30
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They also use it for sticking women's (err hum errs) back together again after childbirth instead of stiches - apparently.............
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Old 27 February 2009, 16:37   #31
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they also use it for sticking women's (err hum errs) back together again after childbirth instead of stiches - apparently.............
where can i buy some?!?!?!
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Old 27 February 2009, 16:38   #32
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They also use it for sticking women's (err hum errs).......
Which reminds me of a joke...If you could relocate any part of a womans body, what would you move?
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Old 27 February 2009, 16:39   #33
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Stick her ears onto her hips.







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Old 27 February 2009, 16:44   #34
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Classic - see it always pays to keep a tube handy - almost as essential as freezer bags!!!
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Old 27 February 2009, 16:46   #35
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Stick her ears onto her hips.







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Old 27 February 2009, 17:07   #36
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I think you'll find that water cures CA adhesives. As I recall, the emergency procedure for a large spill is to water it down (cures the adhesive, allows scraping it up without bonding clean-up tools to floor and such.)

Given that, damp may be OK, but wet may set off a prematurely cured bond.
Yeh, that may well be correct. My understanding is that the adhesive is acidic and the acid prevents curing. Dilution of the acid and/or contact with an alkali will cause it to cure. I believe that's why a very thin layer is preferable while gluing because the substance being glued may not have enough moisture present to sufficiently dilute the acid to cause a cure of a thick layer.
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Old 27 February 2009, 17:30   #37
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Yeh, that may well be correct. My understanding is that the adhesive is acidic and the acid prevents curing. Dilution of the acid and/or contact with an alkali will cause it to cure. I believe that's why a very thin layer is preferable while gluing because the substance being glued may not have enough moisture present to sufficiently dilute the acid to cause a cure of a thick layer.
The adhesive itself is not acidic. However water starts the polymerisation process - it is in effect the "hardener" if you think in terms of 2-part resin
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Old 27 February 2009, 17:32   #38
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The adhesive itself is not acidic. However water starts the polymerisation process - it is in effect the "hardener" if you think in terms of 2-part resin
I think you'll find it is and baking soda is a common accelerator. This info I got years ago (so I could be mis-remembering) when superglue was fairly new to the market. It was a poster I saw in BSL produced, I think, by Loctite and it gave an explanation of the curing process.
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Old 27 February 2009, 17:34   #39
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Right I've got a load of the grey Avon Rubbing strake now. Wanted black to match but picked up a job lot of new strake.
Would you attempt to take the black to fit all grey? Truth be told I'm happy enough with the black but I couldn't let the grey strake pass me by at the price.
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Old 27 February 2009, 17:45   #40
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..There are many, many different CA formulations. Some are very brittle. Others have some plasticizers or something that make it flexible. I have no idea what the relative bond strengths are, though. ..
I don't know too much about various formulations other than some being thicker and slower than others but I have experience of its ability to flex. I once caught the sidewall of a virtually new tyre on a rock. It peeled back a flap of rubber about an inch long and half an inch wide and exposed an area of the tyre cord. It was stuck down pretty much immediately using superglue and it stayed together for the life of the tyre. I guess it did a fair bit of flexing during its life and it would be subjected to the elements too.

You can probably tell I'm a bit of a fan of cyano and rubber.
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