Getting into Zap/Thundercats - Page 2

LiquidA$$et · 27 April 2008, 16:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim M

Where abouts are you going to uni?

I'm hopefully going to Brighton Uni from 2009, if I ever manage to escape from High Wycombe!

Hopefully I could find some storage near there, but some people want a small fortune per month to rent a garage!

Tim M · 27 April 2008, 17:17

How much are you looking at? I managed to find one for £40+vat a month in Portsmouth just behind my halls of residence. Ideal!

LiquidA$$et · 27 April 2008, 22:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim M

How much are you looking at? I managed to find one for £40+vat a month in Portsmouth just behind my halls of residence. Ideal!

£10 a week is what I'm hoping for, but I think it will be best to look in local papers etc as the ones on the net vary so much in price, I looked the other day and I think £17 per week was the cheapest I've found so far ... you've definitely got a good deal there mate ;-)

LiquidA$$et · 28 April 2008, 07:51

Just out of interest, how long would people say it takes to completely set up a zapcat from being fully deflated and also how long to pack back down completely deflated? I have seen in advertising that it takes 45 mins either way but I think this might be 'over-optimistic'. Would a couple of hours be enough?

prairie tuber · 28 April 2008, 13:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiquidA$$et

Just out of interest, how long would people say it takes to completely set up a zapcat from being fully deflated and also how long to pack back down completely deflated? I have seen in advertising that it takes 45 mins either way but I think this might be 'over-optimistic'. Would a couple of hours be enough?

Once you setup and taken it down a couple of times, your assembly time will go down a fair bit. Also having a high speed electric pump (rather than foot pump) will make a huge difference. If you can set it up where there is a flat surface and an electrical outlet it will be twice as fast as setting it up at a remote beach.

Just to give some idea of the set up time for my boats, when I'm alone, they are;

A) 3.5m Zodiac - About 12 minutes with electrical pump. About 25 minutes with a manual pump

B) 4.2m Zodiac - About 20 minutes with electrical pump. About 50 minutes with a foot pump.

C) 4.7m Gemini with highjackers - about 40 minutes with the electrical pump. With a foot pump - unknown (and don't want to know!!!).

These times also include mounting the outboard motor. Also I should mention that my electrical pump gets most of the air volume in, but the pressure still needs to be topped up with a manual pump (which is where a good deal of the time consumption occurs even when an electrical pump is also used). With my Gemini I also received a manual double action piston pump which is also a fair bit faster than the foot pump is, but I haven't tried using it on my zodiacs yet (and probably won't now that I have the electrical pump).

The set up time on a 4.2m Thundercat should fall somewhere between that of the 4.2m Zodiac and the 4.7m Gemini (the tubes of the Gemini Dive 470 have 50% greater diameter than those of a zapcat).

LiquidA$$et · 28 April 2008, 15:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by prairie tuber

Once you setup and taken it down a couple of times, your assembly time will go down a fair bit. Also having a high speed electric pump (rather than foot pump) will make a huge difference. If you can set it up where there is a flat surface and an electrical outlet it will be twice as fast as setting it up at a remote beach.

Just to give some idea of the set up time for my boats, when I'm alone, they are;

A) 3.5m Zodiac - About 12 minutes with electrical pump. About 25 minutes with a manual pump

B) 4.2m Zodiac - About 20 minutes with electrical pump. About 50 minutes with a foot pump.

C) 4.7m Gemini with highjackers - about 40 minutes with the electrical pump. With a foot pump - unknown (and don't want to know!!!).

These times also include mounting the outboard motor. Also I should mention that my electrical pump gets most of the air volume in, but the pressure still needs to be topped up with a manual pump (which is where a good deal of the time consumption occurs even when an electrical pump is also used). With my Gemini I also received a manual double action piston pump which is also a fair bit faster than the foot pump is, but I haven't tried using it on my zodiacs yet (and probably won't now that I have the electrical pump).

The set up time on a 4.2m Thundercat should fall somewhere between that of the 4.2m Zodiac and the 4.7m Gemini (the tubes of the Gemini Dive 470 have 50% greater diameter than those of a zapcat).

Wow thats a good selection of boats, and has made me feel a bit better! I reckon I will go ahead with this and just hope that I can find some storage when I move, if not then I will have the option of packing away and storing indoors. Thanks for your help :-)

Neil Harvey · 28 April 2008, 17:57

if you plan on taking it apart, and are getting a 50hp, don't forget about th weight of the engine - can't say I'd want to be doing it too often.
Or, just make sure your mates don't scarper before it is put away!!

Easyrider · 28 April 2008, 23:09

Hi- Its been a while since ive been on here, anyhows- i am also looking for a thundercat/zapcat after selling my bombard aerotec last year - About 2 weeks ago i was fortunate enough to get one of the last available for the domestic market(probably the last)brand new 50 Tohatsu s.shaft 2 stroke's in the country - not looking forward to running it in though! It cost me £2240 from Extreme Marine in Southampton.

Ive got a trailer too-just need the hull!!!

I strongly recommend the Bravo 12 inflator pump i used with my bombard(and will also use with the thundercat)

http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetai...productID/4526

It will inflate to 11.7psi,and it will inflate a zapcat fully(including the hijackers)in literally a few mins. It will automatically shut off once it has reached whatever pressure you set it at-so no need for a seperate pressure gauge.
Oh yea-its a 12 volt pump that connects directly to your car battery.

Best bit of kit i brought for setting up my boat!

Locozodiac · 28 April 2008, 23:18

What's 11.7 PSI, the keel or tubes pressure, can you specify or give both pressures to understand zap cats better.

Easyrider · 28 April 2008, 23:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

What's 11.7 PSI, the keel or tubes pressure, can you specify or give both pressures to understand zap cats better.

Its the measurment of pressure that the pump can inflate up to (roughly 0.8bar).The main sponsons inflate to about 4psi i think-but underneath these are the hijackers(tubes below each side of the boat) which you inflate to 9psi- i understand that the race boys inflate them much harder than this though.

prairie tuber · 29 April 2008, 02:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Easyrider

understand that the race boys inflate them much harder than this though.

Perhaps, but it will drastically reduce the life expectancy by doing so. Some of the hardcore racers get a new hull every year or so from their sponsors, so they aren't too concerned about product durability.

Nick Hearne · 29 April 2008, 08:31

I too would recommend the Bravo 12 inflater pump, I have got one after trying so many others & would say to any one it was money well spent! (but money wasted on all the rest!) One big benefit is setting the pump to the right pressure & switching on & being able to be getting on with other setting up jobs as it switches off then at the right pressure saves a lot of time!

thomas · 29 April 2008, 10:05

I run my tubes at 7 psi when racing or 0.5bar and my h'jackers at 1 bar.
When for pleasure use I still keep the 1 bar underneath but release some pressure down to 5.5psi or 6 as it makes it slightly more comfortable. Also depends what conditions you run in and what your set up is like, some run higher pressure on flat water and then soften the tubes for more harsh surf racing etc.

If you need help with offsets on engine, slotting of the saddle holes, welding the saddle or and prop advice, feel free to PM me at any time. I have spare boats aswell if you want to go for a run.

Kind Regards

Tom

alt · 29 April 2008, 15:54

Tom - Can I ask how high your engine is off the transom?

At the moment mine is 40mm off the transom, it's definately too high

thomas · 30 April 2008, 11:09

if you mind me asking what is the total load weight in Kg's, and what conditions do you normally run in? And what prop do you use?

alt · 30 April 2008, 20:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom

if you mind me asking what is the total load weight in Kg's, and what conditions do you normally run in? And what prop do you use?

I'm 70KG and my GF is around 50KG I think
I've been told that my prop is a semi-cleaver powertech, but i'm not certain. IT's the normal stainless prop I got when I bought the boat from Mullacott Marine

Heres a pic:

thomas · 01 May 2008, 08:34

Ok the best thing for you to do is to weld up your saddle. Im surprised that Ceasar doesnt do this as standard, as it is needed to strengthen everything up to stop any twisting over time. Also this gives you more adjustment as you can slot the top holes, meaning you can slide the engine up and down on the transome quite freely. Its also makes the bracket thicker by another 5mm, therefore you engine sits further back off the transome.

If you have any queries with this just PM me, I have pictures of how its done, if not I have a jig etc here and plenty of high grade ali and happy to help.

After this has been done, you should find for you, that having the engine 10mm high instead of your 40mm, with a 3mm spacer on the top bolts to bring a small amount of negative trim will work really well.

It looks like you have either a 15" or 16" Powertech. This is a good prop and with this set-up will run well on calm/flat water. A good prop for you with your weights and the new set-up would be a 14" Merc Vengence prop. Again if you need help sorting these out re working them etc send me a PM.

You will find also have a hydraulic damper that is also adjustable will really help and wont make you as tired. Also your spead is increased because your not fighting the engine the whole time. I am using my own unit that ive modified from a baystar/seastar unit. works really well and is small so doesnt get in the way. I use it for racing and you find at higher speeds, having full control of where the engine is going means you can fly straight and have more speed rather than fighting it.

thomas · 01 May 2008, 09:00

Some photos for you:

Notice the 3m strip of metal next to the top bolts.

thomas · 01 May 2008, 09:04

some more

thomas · 01 May 2008, 11:26

looking at your photos more closely it appears your damper you already have on the engine is the type I used to run, these are actually Merc Sprinter van rear suspension shocks. Therefore they do rust with slat water. As a tip just keep it well greased so that inside it does not start to rust.

Also your transome goes to a lower level where the engine is mounted. where are you measuring your 40mm from. I have attached some pictures to help you with the currect set up...