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Old 29 September 2003, 13:41   #11
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Country: UK - England
Town: Wickford, Essex
Boat name: Seahorse V
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4
Engine: Mercury 50HP
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It is approx. 1990. Overall, it seems Ok. I plugged the water ballast system and there wasn't any leaks from underneath BUT, because of the things that the previous owner has bolted to the deck, there are 6 or 7 holes in the deck that water does leak through.

The only problem underneath is the number of scratches ( some done by me in a storm ). I really want to do it for cosmetic reasons.
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Old 29 September 2003, 14:18   #12
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Boat name: Won't get Fooled Again
Make: Ribtec
Length: 6.5
Engine: Honda 130
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I have recently did this to my beloved, and sadly now sold, Avon 4.7. we fixed the scratches with Gelcoat with a tiny bit of filler and got a colour match by mixing red, dark red and yellow pigment. Mix the pigment after the filler has been added to the resin.

When it's dry rub it down through the grades and then give it all hell with a polishing mop and Rubbing compund moving on to Farecla polish afterwards. The results I got where really quite stunning, Well I though so anyway!
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Old 30 September 2003, 05:45   #13
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Seahorse V
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I hope my one comes out as well as yours. Since you have done it before maybe you could answer a question for me. Before I can apply the new Gelcoat, I must abrade the old Gelcoat. Do I have to take the whole of the old gelcoat off or do I just rub off the top surface of it. If I have to take it all off, how will I know when it is all off, is it when the colour disappears entirely?
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Old 30 September 2003, 06:43   #14
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Just make sure you have completely broken the surface. This is to form a key. The new gelcoat is only going to adhere by mechanical grip. Use 60 grit production paper. Buy it at a motor factors. While you are there, buy 25 litres of gunwash (standard thinners). Use this to clean resin brushes, rollers (It's better, overall, than acetone.), paint brushes, remove grease stains from clothing, clean your boat tubes..... lots of uses you'll find for it. Costs about £12 + the dreaded vat.
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Old 30 September 2003, 06:55   #15
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Seahorse V
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Length: 4
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Many thanks for all your help. I have ordered all the stuff I need from http://www.cfsnet.co.uk . I will get some Gunwash and I intend to start next weekend. I assume that for the initial sanding, it is ok to use an electric sheet sander.

I have bought a few books now which seem to be pretty good. The sequence I intend to go through is as follows:-

Clean hull with acetone/gunwash

Initialy sandown using 60g sandpaper with an electric sander to break the surface.

Fill in holes with a resin based filler with embedded glass fibres.

Fill in scratches with Gelcoat filler.

Level off by hand using sandpaper 600g.

Apply a coat of un-waxed Gelcoat using short pile roller and leave for about 3 hours.

Apply a second coat of un-waxed Gelcoat using short pile roller and leave for about 3 hours.

Apply a third coat with wax and leave for about 2 days.

Sand down by hand going through the grades starting at 240g down to about 1200g and then rub and polish with Farcela G3/Advanced Liquid.

Finish polishing.

I will let you know how it all turns out.

Many Thanks to you all.

Steve.
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Old 30 September 2003, 07:31   #16
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Yeh, pretty much, but leave out the 600grit. You want the old surface to be as course as possible. It increases the surface area enormously, therefore, there is more surface for the new resin to stick to. Gel coat is very thick and it does not flow well. It is just laminating resin with a thixotropic agent added to prevent it flowing. You wont need to wait 2 days before starting the polishing process. In fact, if you wait 2 days, the gel will be pretty hard by then and your polishing arm will feel it! The rubbing down and polishing will be a labour of love. I'm not sure about the sander. I sometimes use one but I almost always go back to a cork block with the paper wrapped around it. The rubber block with the jaws at either end is sometimes used. It's a bit softer and flows over undulations a little better. Andy Stevens reckons he got the gel to flow out to a smooth surface and I can't argue with that but I've never managed it.

Oh yes, I forgot to mention, mask off the tubes and wear clothes which you don't mind ruining. Some resin will fly from the roller as spatter.
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Old 30 September 2003, 08:23   #17
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Question, I was told on near vertical surfaces to tape a piece of thick plastic / acetate over the gel repair
a, to stop it slumping and
b, to stop the air getting to it so it wasn't going to have a sticky surface, once it has gone off.
Was this because it was just gelcoat and no wax?
When you buy gelcoat as a product does this normally come with the wax added?
Many thanks
James
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Old 30 September 2003, 08:27   #18
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Country: UK - England
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The Wax you purchase seperately to the Gel Coat. It is very cheap ( mine was about £3 for enough to treat 10L ). You add it to the last coat and that will stop the air getting to the Gel Coat so it can cure properly.
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Old 30 September 2003, 08:43   #19
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Many thanks for that.
Jelly
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Old 30 September 2003, 14:43   #20
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Country: UK - England
Town: Iver, Bucks, UK
Boat name: Prime Rib II
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Can I just say that this has been one of the most useful threads for ages.... (Thatís not to say they arenít all fascinating but you know what I mean)

It has answered a lot of questions I have wondered for years. I will now save the thread to my computer for the next time I get a scratch! (Not the flea variety)

Thank you gentlemen!

Mike C
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