Gel Coat Antifouling Trouble

[diver 1]

I've got a Ribcraft that has had various forms of antifoul poorly applied in the past.

With some success I've used Owatrol Anti Foul remove, painted on, covered in cling film, left overnight and power washed and scraped off to remove over 90% of the antifouling.

However I'm left in places with a very fine pale blue colour left behind which I cant remove.

Antifoul remover doesn't touch it, nor does acetone, thinners, a scraper, a sharp blade

Only method to remove that seems to work is wet wet and dry paper, followed by farcela No 6 paste on a polisher, followed by Autoglym resin wax polish.

There must be something easier or at least a 1 part compound that would do this. I'm reluctant to go too heavy with the wet and dry paper!

1st photo shows small part I have cleaned sucessfully as above, second photo shows typical condition of rest of the hull
Would appreciate any advice

[Tim M]

Unfortunately when it comes to antifoul removal, in my experience there's no easy way. I've used that removal stuff, does a great job but you always have some left on there. Wet and dry and polish is the only way to go.

[diver 1]

Cheers Tim. Can you recommend a decent polish?

Also is there any safe way to remove antifoul that's been overlapped onto the base of the tubes?

I'm starting at 400 grit wet and dry, then 800, then 1000, then G3 compound then polish.

Can I start coarser? Whats the best heavy compound to use?

Thanks!

[Tim M]

Sounds like you've got a good plan there. I did one recently and started with 120 grit in a power sander (this stuff was on very thick). As long as you take your time you'll get a good finish. I use Farecla compound (forgotten the name now but its the very course one). Based on your photo I think you'll be fine with 400 wet and dry as a starter. Make sure you use a sanding block to keep it even.

[gtflash]

If you can guarantee you won't go through gelcoat you could start more course, but 400 is a safe bet. I would work up to 1500 grit. 1000 leaves a lot of lines still. Remember to change your water and clean out bucket or use a water spray between courses. I also use that farela or farecela stuff. It comes in different grades, most motor factors sell it, I recently bought a fine scratch removal one which is great for final polish before final polish.

Last time I did some polishing it was on aerosol clear coat, I worked upto 1500 with random orbital sander then cutting compound on a sponge and wool mit. The sanders and buffers really save time, but it's easier to go to far especially on corners

I tried antifoul removal several years ago. I spent a fortune on many products and it never completed the job. If I was to do it again I'd pay someone to soda blast it. But it does leave it keyed. If your hull was already abraded before antifoul you will need to polish that abrade or key out anyway. If your hull was not keyed your probably better off doing what you are doing. Either way it's gonna hurt