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Old 06 February 2016, 16:35   #1
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Fuel filter & water separator?

Does anyone use a fuel filter/water separator when using removable plastic tanks, or are they generally considered to be clean enough without? There is a fuel filter on the outboard already (standard 70hp 2 stroke Tohatsu).

I have no room for an auxiliary engine, so I need to make sure it's as reliable as possible.
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Old 07 February 2016, 00:52   #2
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If you don't mind the extra plumbing, and have someplace to mount it, I'd say do it. The canister has a much greater filter area, so will take a lot more contaminant before plugging. Plus you get water rejection as well.

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Old 07 February 2016, 02:33   #3
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Yep, always used them, mounted it on the transom and plumbed it in using the same hose.
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Old 07 February 2016, 02:46   #4
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Yep - agree with the other two here - these are well worth the extra plumbing especially if your Rib is doing beach landings or anything else that might put a lot of sand / grit / detritus in your boat. Tiny grains of sand easy work their way in to bayonet fittings while your changing tanks in my experience. The water separation is a consideration too.

I would struggle to suggest any down sides to fitting a pre-filter...
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Old 07 February 2016, 02:58   #5
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Thanks chaps. Any recommended makes?
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Old 07 February 2016, 03:17   #6
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Thanks chaps. Any recommended makes?
I'd go for the make of your engine if they make one. Chances are they will recommend one if they don't.

I use Suzuki ones, but then so have the last two engines been, can't remember what was on the Mariner.
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Old 07 February 2016, 03:18   #7
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Thanks chaps. Any recommended makes?
Quicksilver/Racor, that's what I use. Not essential you go for clear bowl version. However it does have the release valve so you can drain fuel.

Grease the filter thread before fitting onto the filter head. Over time these things sieze.
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Old 07 February 2016, 03:22   #8
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I'd go for the make of your engine if they make one. Chances are they will recommend one if they don't.

I use Suzuki ones, but then so have the last two engines been, can't remember what was on the Mariner.
Tohatsu make filters, 10 micron filtration, etc. Won't be cheap, and will probably be order only.
More details here: Tohatsu parts
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Old 07 February 2016, 15:10   #9
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Top stuff, thank you.
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Old 07 February 2016, 19:30   #10
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I use Racor for my Yamaha engine. I like being able to see if any water is on the bowl.

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Old 08 February 2016, 00:21   #11
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I think the BSS says it must be a metal bowl. I have looked for the one mentioned on the Tohatsu website but it looks to be available only in the USA. Might be a call to ASAP to see what they have.
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Old 08 February 2016, 02:00   #12
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i got a yamaha one from pacer marine nice and small around 70.
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Old 08 February 2016, 10:29   #13
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I think the BSS says it must be a metal bowl. I have looked for the one mentioned on the Tohatsu website but it looks to be available only in the USA. Might be a call to ASAP to see what they have.
BSS? No idea what that means. Commercial certifying agency or something?

As far as filters go, they're all pretty much the same if you equate particle size and flow rate. The Yamaha filters use the same mount as Quicksilver and standard Racor (I think mine uses a 32013 canister; they make equivalents for just about everything.) Pick one that has good local availability for replacement canisters.

Before installing the canister, give it a couple of coats of automotive wax (and if it's not going to be handled/rubbed against/whatever, leave the last coat unbuffed.) Will go a long way in preventing the steel canister from rusting.

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Old 08 February 2016, 11:09   #14
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The BSS is the Boat Safety Certificate. Although the rib will be on the sea mainly, I live on the Broads and it will have some freshwater use. Part of the Broads registration is to have a Boat Safety Certificate every four years.

I can see the sense in making sure replacements filters and spares are available locally. Better than calling the big orange tow-boat...

Great idea with the wax - I can use this on a few other bits too.
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Old 08 February 2016, 15:23   #15
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As far as I can recall you can get away with a clear bowl within the BSS rules.

As for the other chap, fit a decent filter/separator with a clear bowl and a drain. The metal ones are a waste of time IMO.
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Old 08 February 2016, 16:14   #16
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It might have changed. Three and a bit years ago in Brundall, I had to have the clear bowls changed for metal ones on my other boat, which has a couple of big Perkins HT6354 diesels drawing through them, as it would not have passed the BSS as it stood.

Bit nuts - surely better if you can see water/dirt/diesel bug before it stops at sea...actually it might be different for petrol, thinking about it.

Regardless, the rib has just passed the BSS, so I am good to go for nearly 4 years - I might go for clear and be damned!
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Old 08 February 2016, 16:19   #17
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You can use the racor 500 series with clear bowl but you need the one with the aluminium heat shield to stay within the bss rules
I wouldn't fit anything else! you can see any contamination at a moments glance and the cartridges are peanuts 2 10 or 30 micron available depending on what you need
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Old 08 February 2016, 16:20   #18
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Brilliant info, thank you!

Totally agree about being able to see contamination/water/crap before breaking down.
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Old 08 February 2016, 16:24   #19
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It might have changed. Three and a bit years ago in Brundall, I had to have the clear bowls changed for metal ones on my other boat, which has a couple of big Perkins HT6354 diesels drawing through them, as it would not have passed the BSS as it stood.

Bit nuts - surely better if you can see water/dirt/diesel bug before it stops at sea...actually it might be different for petrol, thinking about it.

Regardless, the rib has just passed the BSS, so I am good to go for nearly 4 years - I might go for clear and be damned!

How come you need BSS for a RIB?

(I'm just outside Brundall)
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Old 08 February 2016, 16:25   #20
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Fitted electrics.
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