flooding hull on searider

[chewy]

MDT has the best way of blocking it!

[HUMBER P4VWL]

Originally Posted by JSP

I just want to find a reliable way of blocking it up! DHD came up with a good idea (I think it was DHD, was a wail ago). Piece of metal plate with a bolt welded to it goes on the inside of the hull then a larger round plate slides over the bolt and torqued down. Can't remember if he said get a rubber seal between the hull and plate or use sikaflex.

That sounds like the kit we used on our 5.4 supplied by avon, it was crap!!! ultimately let water in. We just glassed it up in the end and left a hole for a screw bung to drain at the end of the season. Far more efficient, cheap and simple to do and relatively easily removed completely if needed.

[JSP]

Did you ever leave it on a mooring for a length of time Paul?

[HUMBER P4VWL]

Yep, we leave (used to leave, we have the new boat), sorry left it on the mooring from start of may to mid sept every year for 10 -12 years on the menai straits. It rode fine in gales funnelling up towards the bridges.

It flooded completely twice on the bouy and the batteries blew each time as we had them on the deck in the back, arse. This only ever happened with the flooding hull open. Once closed, the boat never flooded, the bilge pump dealt with the rain water fine, though a small well would have been good like we have on the humber.

Ideally you want the battery above the water line in the console, our design fault. By sitting on the bough, you could tip the stern/transom up out of the water and start bailing quickly, very tricky but you can do it. Then simply spend an hour or two of good boating time refitting a spare battery and connectors, costing £100 of drinking money, how frustrating!

[JSP]

Did you get much water in the hull after you'd blocked it up?

[HUMBER P4VWL]

Originally Posted by JSP

Did you get much water in the hull after you'd blocked it up?

At the end of 5 months there was about a pint or two, probably from the diy bung or seepade through fittings on the deck or something, not sure where.

[Downhilldai]

Originally Posted by JSP

I just want to find a reliable way of blocking it up! DHD came up with a good idea (I think it was DHD, was a wail ago). Piece of metal plate with a bolt welded to it goes on the inside of the hull then a larger round plate slides over the bolt and torqued down. Can't remember if he said get a rubber seal between the hull and plate or use sikaflex.

I have one of these in the "manufacturing stage" at the moment. Hope to finish it tomorrow evening. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.

[mdt]

Originally Posted by chewy

MDT has the best way of blocking it!

oh yes that will be the... starting from scratch method .

[chewy]

Originally Posted by mdt

oh yes that will be the... starting from scratch method .

Any method that includes a chainsaw seems a good method!

[doggypaddle]

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

I have one of these in the "manufacturing stage" at the moment. Hope to finish it tomorrow evening. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.

Its how i did mine, cant remember if it was you or codders said i should have used stainless, and my comment was Ali was what was in the scrap bin! anyway mine was an 8mm thick piece of ali with register to fit in the transom hole and center it hole cut in 5mm or so, leaving a 3mm thick lip to face against the transom. i was coing to install an O ring grove but the transom isnt a very good seal face on mine, a drain plug fitted and 1 centarl bolt to thread into the "posted in" bar across the hole.
I have now blocked up the air vents in the bow with 2 futher drainplugs with a 4 screw flange, so they can come out in seconds, the stern plug may take a little longer due to the RTV sealer being gone off in the tube when i came to fit it and the sikaflex being OK
To be honest though i dont think i will ever need to remove it

[Downhilldai]

I'm using a 130mm diameter, 3mm thick 316 grade stainless disc, drilled 25mm for a drain plug, with a 316 grade 3mm thick flat bar, 130 x 75 inside the hull, horizontally across the inside of the hole with 12mm thick, 100mm diameter plastic spacers in between the two bits of stainless. These will locate the whole job in the drain hole. The two M5 bolts for the drain plug will pass through the outer disc and plastic spacers, then fix into the lower part of the flat bar and another couple of M6 bolts through the upper part of the disc will give a good solid fix.
Oh and some sikaflex type stuff to make sure nothing falls into the sea.
Photos later

[Downhilldai]

Oh and I found some really neat plugs for the vent holes in the bow. These are meant to plug the end of a 1" round pipe, eg leg of a chair.

[doggypaddle]

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Oh and I found some really neat plugs for the vent holes in the bow. These are meant to plug the end of a 1" round pipe, eg leg of a chair.

That sounds quicker and simpler than the plugs ive got Still its done now anyway, but if i do another to do i will get some R.H.S plastic end plugs! pissed I didnt think of that.............. bugger its a good thought!

[Downhilldai]

.....and they were only 22p each

[doggypaddle]

Feck mine were £3 each and then to top it of the SS screws i bought went rusty

[JSP]

And will you make me one?

[doggypaddle]

yall have to wait until you see mine! cant be fagged taking photos

[JSP]

Originally Posted by doggypaddle

yall have to wait until you see mine! cant be fagged taking photos

[Downhilldai]

Here we go.
Well, I saw this piece of A4 size Acrylic for a couple of quid and it looked a bit similar to Searider Orange, so I thought I'd give it a go. The colour wasn't quite right, so I decided to use a piece of 316 instead.
1st pic is of the discs I cut out of the orange acrylic, with the drain plug in place.
2nd pic is of the flat brace bar for inside the void, the orange acrylic pieces used as a spacer, the 316 disc for the outside and a toob of sticky goo. I also used 2 no M5 x 35 csk bolts for the drain plug, 2 no M6 x 35 button head bolts, flat washers and rubber sealing washers for fixing the 316 disc and a M6 x 20 csk bolt for fixing the plastic spacers to the brace bar.
3rd pic is of the orange acrylic spacers and brace bar in place.
4th pic is of the finished job.

[Downhilldai]

Here are the bungs I used for the bow vent holes: