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Old 03 September 2009, 17:14   #61
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MDT has the best way of blocking it!
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Old 03 September 2009, 17:21   #62
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I just want to find a reliable way of blocking it up! DHD came up with a good idea (I think it was DHD, was a wail ago). Piece of metal plate with a bolt welded to it goes on the inside of the hull then a larger round plate slides over the bolt and torqued down. Can't remember if he said get a rubber seal between the hull and plate or use sikaflex.
That sounds like the kit we used on our 5.4 supplied by avon, it was crap!!! ultimately let water in. We just glassed it up in the end and left a hole for a screw bung to drain at the end of the season. Far more efficient, cheap and simple to do and relatively easily removed completely if needed.
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Old 03 September 2009, 17:25   #63
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Did you ever leave it on a mooring for a length of time Paul?
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Old 03 September 2009, 17:46   #64
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Yep, we leave (used to leave, we have the new boat), sorry left it on the mooring from start of may to mid sept every year for 10 -12 years on the menai straits. It rode fine in gales funnelling up towards the bridges.

It flooded completely twice on the bouy and the batteries blew each time as we had them on the deck in the back, arse. This only ever happened with the flooding hull open. Once closed, the boat never flooded, the bilge pump dealt with the rain water fine, though a small well would have been good like we have on the humber.

Ideally you want the battery above the water line in the console, our design fault. By sitting on the bough, you could tip the stern/transom up out of the water and start bailing quickly, very tricky but you can do it. Then simply spend an hour or two of good boating time refitting a spare battery and connectors, costing £100 of drinking money, how frustrating!
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Old 03 September 2009, 18:11   #65
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Did you get much water in the hull after you'd blocked it up?
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Old 03 September 2009, 18:50   #66
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Did you get much water in the hull after you'd blocked it up?
At the end of 5 months there was about a pint or two, probably from the diy bung or seepade through fittings on the deck or something, not sure where.
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Old 03 September 2009, 19:30   #67
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I just want to find a reliable way of blocking it up! DHD came up with a good idea (I think it was DHD, was a wail ago). Piece of metal plate with a bolt welded to it goes on the inside of the hull then a larger round plate slides over the bolt and torqued down. Can't remember if he said get a rubber seal between the hull and plate or use sikaflex.
I have one of these in the "manufacturing stage" at the moment. Hope to finish it tomorrow evening. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.
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Old 04 September 2009, 02:18   #68
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MDT has the best way of blocking it!
oh yes that will be the... starting from scratch method .
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Old 04 September 2009, 03:28   #69
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oh yes that will be the... starting from scratch method .
Any method that includes a chainsaw seems a good method!
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Old 04 September 2009, 04:17   #70
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I have one of these in the "manufacturing stage" at the moment. Hope to finish it tomorrow evening. I'll post some pics in the next day or two.
Its how i did mine, cant remember if it was you or codders said i should have used stainless, and my comment was Ali was what was in the scrap bin! anyway mine was an 8mm thick piece of ali with register to fit in the transom hole and center it hole cut in 5mm or so, leaving a 3mm thick lip to face against the transom. i was coing to install an O ring grove but the transom isnt a very good seal face on mine, a drain plug fitted and 1 centarl bolt to thread into the "posted in" bar across the hole.
I have now blocked up the air vents in the bow with 2 futher drainplugs with a 4 screw flange, so they can come out in seconds, the stern plug may take a little longer due to the RTV sealer being gone off in the tube when i came to fit it and the sikaflex being OK
To be honest though i dont think i will ever need to remove it
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