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Old 22 May 2016, 05:41   #11
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Originally Posted by Poly View Post
Davie, can we assume with your background that you have eliminated the obvious, like vhf left on, or an auto bilge pump?
Yes, its to do with the auto pump. Design fault but who can work out what was happening?
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Old 22 May 2016, 06:26   #12
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Davie that's why I did away with my auto pump after two burn outs and when back to float switch saves bat power as well as its not pulsing constantly sometimes on a dry well. Hope your sorted now.
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Old 22 May 2016, 07:21   #13
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Yes, its to do with the auto pump. Design fault but who can work out what was happening?
So... if you are happy to go with float switch instead of the auto water sensor you can simply put a float switch in front of the auto supply so that both the float and the water sensor need to go on to pump...?

It only takes water droplets across the electronic sensor to make a circuit and switch the pump on. I get condensation in the bilge of my hard boat sometimes (covered boat - small amount of water in bottom (2 cups full) - heated by cover. 100% humidity I'd guess then cools down, and the humid air touches the cold sides and condenses. That dribbling down the sensor switch will be enough to switch it on.

Remember that the reason these sensors were developed was to stop debris floating into the float switch and either jamming it open (and on) or stopping it opening. If you can address the stopping opening (positioning) the jammed open will still need the electronic sensor to activate as well...
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Old 23 May 2016, 07:51   #14
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The automatic bilge pump skin fitting is directly above the elephants trunk...
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Old 23 May 2016, 08:45   #15
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The automatic bilge pump skin fitting is directly above the elephants trunk...
So the bilge pump outlet is going into the elephants trunk! Genius piece of rigging!
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