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Old 31 August 2015, 16:42   #11
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thanks the front seat is bolted down but the air chambers are at the transom end which is my only worry as I don't want to puncture one or both of them .the floor is a stippled type effect I think I could mark out the outline of the new seat and grind the surface of with a p35 disk around the outside do the same on the seat flange then sikaflex the seat inside the ground out area then glass over the outer flange to floor join. would this work and can I use glass matt and resin
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Old 31 August 2015, 17:16   #12
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In short yes.

You will want to read:
https://www.gov.uk/maib-reports/fail...on-of-3-people
and https://assets.digital.cabinet-offic...14f/SB2-07.pdf

Glass Matt & Resin. Multiple layers. Followed by Flowcoat over the top. Personally, rather than sikka, I'd have ground off the flow on the base where its to be attached, then put a fresh layer of matt and resin and then pressed the console ontop - perhaps with some short self taps just to hold it.
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Old 28 October 2015, 00:25   #13
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Country: USA
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Don't mean to hi jack or resurrect an old thread here, but can anyone explain this air chamber spoken of in the SR4?? I just bought an SR4 and there are old screw holes in the rear from fuel tank hold downs. I splashed the boat for the first time after removing the screws, and they are definitely all the way through the deck as water was leaking in pretty fast. I promptly had the hoist operator take the boat back out, and today I put the screws back into the holes with 4200. But now I'm worried about this mysterious air chamber in the stern??
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Old 28 October 2015, 04:19   #14
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as far as I am aware there is 2 buoyancy tanks under the floor at the transom end to help with the weight of the outboard when the hull is stationary and flooded .I don't think that the water from the flooded hull ballast system can get into the tanks (maybe it can get around them ?) I was concerned I would lose the buoyant effect from them if I punctured them. I may be totally wrong of course
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Old 28 October 2015, 13:49   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbelly View Post
as far as I am aware there is 2 buoyancy tanks under the floor at the transom end to help with the weight of the outboard when the hull is stationary and flooded .I don't think that the water from the flooded hull ballast system can get into the tanks (maybe it can get around them ?) I was concerned I would lose the buoyant effect from them if I punctured them. I may be totally wrong of course
I saw the picture in the referenced build thread, and yes it appears there are two buoyancy chambers, but I don't know if the deck is laminated to it, or if it's just suspended on top and the water can flow over it. If it gets between the deck and the top of the air chamber, then I could end up filling it with water, since I'm pretty sure the 3/4" screws I put through the deck would have made it through to the air chamber. I guess it depends how thick the deck material is. I doubt it's 3/4" though. When I put in the stainless screws, I used the same as the ones the guy before me used at the transom, and these just went through into the flooded hull so no worries. I had no idea there were air chambers further forward, so thought nothing of it. Tomorrow I'm going to shine a light in there. I put the 3" pad eye right down the middle of the pebbled area that a fuel tank would go, so I probably pierced both air chambers, one on each side. Like a #dumbass.
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