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Old 23 May 2015, 16:51   #21
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When you said or had a stainless keel strip i assumed about a 1inch strip of bar on the very point of the keel. That thing is erm, unique!

Should be worn a few quid work the scrap dealer though.

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Old 24 May 2015, 05:06   #22
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Yep its a big strip but it would be a shame to scrap it as there must of been so much effort gone into building it. The keel isnt as bad as I thought except from the thousand holes in the bottom off the screws
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Old 24 May 2015, 07:38   #23
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I'd almost be tempted to put it back on with new screws and Sikaflex291i if you're going to regularly beach the boat. It'd be easier than filling all those holes.

It'll FLY with a Yam 50
You really don't need the aggro of the 70 that was on there, and I'm surprised the transom was intact if it's as rotten as you say and had a 70 on it.
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Old 24 May 2015, 13:51   #24
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We have already sold the Mercury which was quite sweet but too much for the boat & say the transom is quite squishy & delaminated & the plan is to replace the floor & transom & put a layer of glass along the entire keel to beef it up & deal with the holes from inside then glass as required on the outside then re gelcoat the bottom of the hull between the chines down to the keel. I am unsure about filling the flloding hull or not.
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Old 24 May 2015, 15:07   #25
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Looking a good project Dan. Nice one. The yam 50 comes in a 96 kgs i think so will sit a little low. Ive mostly blocked the hull up on my srs and balanced out with forward fuel tanks.if you plan to pop in on a beach the extra weight wont do you any favours and you will have to lose most of the 150kgs of ballast before it planes.
Really depends what u wanna do with it?
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Old 25 May 2015, 05:20   #26
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Im not sure what would be best as I want it for general playing about but my dad and sister do diving so sitting arround waiting would be better with it flooding. We do watersports so blocked would be better for that. As this is my first boat I might be looking to upgrade in a couple of years so I really need it to appeal for resale
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Old 25 May 2015, 05:42   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel2003 View Post
& say the transom is quite squishy & delaminated & the plan is to replace the floor & transom & put a layer of glass along the entire keel to beef it up & deal with the holes from inside then glass as required on the outside then re gelcoat the bottom of the hull between the chines down to the keel. I am unsure about filling the flloding hull or not.
Hi Dan,
if your plan is to replace the transom & floor, it would be important to leave the outside of the transom, and rebuild the transom from the
outside to the inside. Reason is to avoid to get a "twist" in the hull when cutting the whole transom out.
Here some pics of a project in germany, similar to your plan.

Good Luck!
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Old 25 May 2015, 05:48   #28
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Leave the flooder. If you really want to not flood then fit some big caps so that at resale you give buyer the choice how to use...
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Old 28 May 2015, 12:24   #29
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Thanks for all the advice much appreciated
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Old 02 January 2016, 16:01   #30
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Finally got somewhere dry to work on the boat and dug a hole in the floor at the stern to see what it was like underneath. Once we had lifted the floor we found a thin layer of ply wood on top of a thin layer of fibreglass.
Underneath the fibreglass we were surprised that we found some damp foam. The foam was sitting in a fibreglass tray which only left a small area for the flooding hull. You can see the foam tray in the pictures. Is this normal?
It would be hard to put it back in like that so thinking of just using a flat plywood floor back in but wondering with a plain floor what thickness would you use and would it need any strengtheners in the floor. Would it be sensible to put a layer of glass and flowcoat on the underside of the floor before we put the floor back in?
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