Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 14 June 2016, 10:02   #1
Member
 
Whizzbang's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 50
Fibreglassing a hole in my transom

I have a bailer tube on my XS360 at the rear which ideally need removing. This would then result in a large hole in my transom.
Should this be easy to glass over, almost as if it was never there?
Also how much do you think it would cost?
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByRIB Net1465912790.980831.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	96.4 KB
ID:	113813
The image shows the same boat as mine with an identical bailer tube.
Thanks in advance, Whizz.
__________________

__________________
Whizzbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 12:45   #2
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke YAM 20 HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,114
Why do you want to remove the elephant's trunk?
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 15:24   #3
Member
 
Whizzbang's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 50
It's become ripped so I'm cautious of it leaking and I would like to mount lights on the transom for fishing instead. Being such a narrow transom I have limited space.
__________________
Whizzbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 15:39   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,251
So how will you drain it in future?
I'd replace the layflat tube my self... (Yellow Layflat PVC Water Delivery Hose - Discharge Pipe Pump Lay Flat Irrigation | eBay )

No sure what the lights for fishing thing is all about. Not sure an ell' trunk and lights are not compatible!

If you really want to fill the gap then in theory its not that hard. But it may be pricey to buy the bits you need for what is basically a small job. Getting someone to do it for you will come with a price tag.
__________________
ShinyShoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 15:50   #5
Member
 
Whizzbang's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 50
It has a bilge installed, which is why it rarely gets used anymore.
The reason for lights and trunk not working together is the lights would pretty much be the width of the transom.
Am happy to do it myself. What materials do I need? And realistically how difficult will it be?
Thanks.
__________________
Whizzbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 16:06   #6
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke YAM 20 HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizzbang View Post
It has a bilge installed, which is why it rarely gets used anymore.
The day the pump fails will be the day you take a big dump over the bow and really need a fast drain.
Quote:
Am happy to do it myself. What materials do I need? And realistically how difficult will it be?
Thanks.
The problem is if done badly, and it gets a big knock your plug will pop out flooding the boat and you'll really need a trunk then! Im not sure I'd want my first fibreglass job to be so critical.
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 16:19   #7
Member
 
Whizzbang's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Christchurch
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 50
Cheers for the advice.
But for the day it fails I'll be bailing :/
__________________
Whizzbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 16:24   #8
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: mariner 115
MMSI: 235913962
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 542
RIBase
this may seem like a stupid noobie question but the elephant trunks do they get lowered all the time when the boats in the water and what happens if you don't lift them when your stopped do they seal up and keep the water out are they a worthwhile conversion
__________________
breezeblock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 16:40   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,251
So there are 'dirty ways' to do it and there are good ways. If I was doing this I think I'd do the following:

1. Screw a piece of any random wood over the hole.
2. From the other side use a router on a pivot point in the middle of the hole (hence the bit of wood) use it to take 6mm depth off the outer edge of the hole for about an extra 12mm
3. Move the piece of wood the other side and repeat. So if the original hole was 50mm you have a 50mm hole with a 74mm diameter, 6mm deep "hole" either side. Remove the random bit of wood.
4. I'd then cut two pieces of 6mm ply, 73mm diameter and depending on the thickness of your transom enough 49mm x 6mm discs to fill the hole inside the outer sections.
5. Mix Epoxy Resin (probably thickened with silica to a mayo consistency) and laminate the 49mm sections and one 73mm one together to make a plug.
6. Once cured, mix more epoxy and glue the plug into place.
7. Once cured mix yet more epoxy and glue the remaining 73mm section into place, and probably secure with a small screw
8. remove screws etc and mix some epoxy with glass balloons to a peanut butter consistency. Use to fill the screw holes and gaps round the 73mm caps on both sides.
9. Once cured, sand flat and then I'd probably then apply some chopped strand mat soaked in resin if thats what is already on your transom, followed by a layer of flow coat.

That'd be my approach and would be the best avoidance of the "plug" falling out.

But it means apart from a router and sanders etc you need: Epoxy Resin (20) plus Silica and Balloons (15), 6mm marine ply (20 for offcut), CSM, Resin, Flowcoat (20). So Maybe 75 in materials before you get into gloves, mixing cups, spatulas etc.

I have no doubt there are 'quicker' ways that may work.
__________________
ShinyShoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 June 2016, 16:45   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeblock View Post
this may seem like a stupid noobie question but the elephant trunks do they get lowered all the time when the boats in the water and what happens if you don't lift them when your stopped do they seal up and keep the water out are they a worthwhile conversion
Depends who you are! If you have an auto bilge pump then you probably leave them up as it avoids forgetting to lift them. They are designed to "layflat" and posh ones have better closing properties at the end of the tube. They are also designed to either just lie on the surface or maybe just above with a piece of shock cord holding it up a little bit so that the weight of water filling the tube from the boat side is enough to push it down and open and drain it.

They are never 100% water tight, so should be lifted when stopped.

You can run the release cord to the side of the console so the you pull a cord as you stop and release it as you set off. OR you don't do either and wait to you hit a lump of water and then release, again quickly from the console is best rather than having to go aft and put more weight on the stern to release the toggle which lowers the transom more!
__________________

__________________
ShinyShoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:21.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.