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Old 17 April 2015, 03:19   #41
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Wouldn't you be better going hydraulic steering if you're going to run 2 of them?
Plus no steering cable issues - mine's twin cables. The control cables aren't really an issue as they're much thinner & more manageable.
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Old 17 April 2015, 05:11   #42
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I feel your pain, boating on a budget is a real struggle, especially when you have the size of hull you have.

IMHO?, a pair of those 130's are going to be shockingly pricey to run/maintain. I ran a pair of 60s on a 5.8m hull and fully loaded i was using anything up to 1.4 litres a mile. I couldn't stomach it.

I bought a four stroke and notched the transom to accept the single. Many people frown upon it, as long as its done properly I don't fully understand why. I've saved 40kgs on my transom so in theory it should sit a little higher in the water and the cut out takes the transom height to a normal long shaft transom anyway.

I've gone from 2 older/thirsty/pricey/inefficient 2 strokes to a modern/economical/lighter/more reliable 4 stroke. It's a win win situation in my eyes.

I don't have pocketfuls of cash I can chuck at a boat and couldn't be doing with the hassle of buying and selling. You can only piss with the cock you've got.

Basically what I'm trying to say is.....I'd cut the transom and go with a bigger single because I don't have the pockets but that's just me.
I suspect (but may well be wrong-Cobra would need to be asked) the transom wouldn't need to be cut for a bigger single- a 25" shaft would probably work.

Cost wise though, a second 135 at sub 2k, vs a second hand big new tech motor at 6k+, plus maybe another 1k for an auxiliary when you're probably splitting fuel costs 5 or 6 ways between divers is going take a long time to add up.
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Old 17 April 2015, 06:36   #43
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Transom is 27 inch high.so even with xl shaft I have to notch it about 2 inches.that hull is really made for twins. I will look for second 135 mariner/mercury and give it a go. Up to then will work on the hull: make console , jockey seats etc.
I have hydraulic steering .
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Old 17 April 2015, 07:30   #44
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Really, you may not have to notch it. Having the AV plate 2 inches above the keel isn't unheard of on some boats-particularly if you use a setback plate which you're obviously capable of making from earlier replies.

Essentially from memory, the further back the motor is from the transom, the higher it can be-though 7 inches isn't realistic. Do a search on here-the info is on an old post somewhere (probably by Cookee , Kitten or Dirk Diggler)

I'm not saying you HAVE to do it, just that you do have more potential options that just chucking another 135 on it.
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Old 17 April 2015, 07:31   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post

Cost wise though, a second 135 at sub 2k, vs a second hand big new tech motor at 6k+, plus maybe another 1k for an auxiliary when you're probably splitting fuel costs 5 or 6 ways between divers is going take a long time to add up.
This is true. I suppose the reason it worked for me is I already had the two engines to sell, by the time I sold them I only needed another 1k for the newer engine and already had aux.

Horses for courses.
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Old 17 April 2015, 11:08   #46
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Some shots of the engine transfer...
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Old 17 April 2015, 11:10   #47
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Old 17 April 2015, 11:13   #48
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Getting ready to work on the rib...
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Old 17 April 2015, 11:20   #49
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As it's your 1st boating project, do you know about specifically using Sikaflex 291i or Purflex to seal the engine bolts to stop water getting into the transom? Silicone sealer isn't recommended at all as it doesn't last long.
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Old 17 April 2015, 12:18   #50
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I know that you have to seal the bolts...didn't knew what sealer to use, thanks for that . Don't need to look for the answer when the time comes.
I'm not hanging the engine for good, just moking it up to see clearances ,lengths console and seat layout, etc, it would be a shame to buy second engine and find out after that they won't work because of some sh1t .
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