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Old 17 July 2003, 16:56   #41
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Nev, sorry only just seen your post as I have been busy with the surveyor.

The prop that was on the boat is corroded so can't see the prop markings so I am guesing its 25". Also when I ordered a new one from Lancing its a different prop shape, (blade thickness, distance it sits of the hub etc. Tried to buy one from the firm that makes them I was told "no chance mate we only sell to Lancing". I have a feeling that its a volvo prop which could be interesting. Need to take it into the local volvo agent to see if he can match the markings that can be read. "807" on the side and P12345 or something on the back of the hub.

My engine has been rebuilt then run up on Mermaids Dyno and the certificate says 198 Hp at 2600 rpm which is were the 29/30 knots come from (with a 21" prop from Lancing). As you say 145 as standard and thats about 20 knots. With all the Coding stuff in and the extra fuel I am down to 28 knots now.

Also the previous owner said the rev counter was playing up, so given this it could be that the problem was an over large prop fitted by the previous owner and a dodgy gauge. There is a diggy gauge on the net for $45 which fits the injector pipes so might have a go with one of these

http://www.tinytach.com/diesel.html

What do you mean shortening the engine box is an easy job! you said it took bloody hours to do on a previous post, lol, which is why I am leaving it well alone for the moment.

See that P22 for 10k in cornwall sold for the asking price in a week. Seems there is good demand for them.

Regards Pete
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Old 17 July 2003, 17:09   #42
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Nev, the other thing is the engine box is used for seating which I don't want to loose but would be interested in some pics of yours.

Also met Dave who runs a P24 version out of Lyme Bay for diving.
His console is at the back on the engine box which gives loads of room.

http://www.discoveryribcharter.com/

Yep 180 hp is reaonably easy to obtain by tweeking the pump, but 200 hp and you are in for new pistons and con rods etc.

The RN have some P22 in the dockyard at the moment which are scrap, I assume they will come up for sale at some point shortly.

Pete
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Old 17 July 2003, 17:10   #43
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Hey Daniel, did you ever find that converter ? it would be worth a few beers

Pete
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Old 18 July 2003, 03:42   #44
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Pete,

I was thinking the same thing when reading this thread last night and feeling rather guilty about it.

I can't find it but i will - i'm just sorry it's taken so long already... this moving house thing takes months to get sorted not just weeks. I'm not usually into making wild claims i can't stick to.

I'm still interested in your boat too but havent pulled my finger out... i'm a nice chap really... just a little disorganised!
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Old 19 July 2003, 02:53   #45
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Hi Daniel, yes saw you browsing this forum last night so thought I would mention it. I am just a poor charter boat skipper trying to earn an honest living. So don't want you to feel guilty or anything, but... lol.

If your still interested in the Ribtec she has just had the engine replaced with a mint 97 150 hp Mariner. You are more than welcome to come down and view. Seems everyone is moving house at the moment, pepper too, one huge game of monopoly. Let me know when your ready.
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Old 19 July 2003, 10:21   #46
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We have 3 p22s that we are refitting at the moment for resale. I always find with these boats that the decks are prone to a few problems. At the back they go slightly soggy, gnerally only in a few small local areas. To lift the deck is not a major problem, but quite time consuming. It takes us about a week with 2 people to do the whole deck, including taking the tubes off & refitting them, painting, antislip, console off etc. The main problem is that Halmatic for some reason used brass screws in the decks (and millions of them!) which of course go soft like cheese after a few years and alot sometimes need to be drilled out. As for the back conversion, we cut the engine hatch short a bit, and put a small deck beam in, you dont get alot of exra space, but i think in these boats every little bit is worth it. I will post a few pics of the boats that we are doing at present over the next few days.

As for the props, i am getting really distressed ! The standard prop for the navy boats at 145 hp was 16 3/4 x 21 pitch. I have put these on different P22s but all ex navy, and had completely different results, it does seem that they are the best all rounder though for a 145 hp engine. I have ordered a 16 3/4 x 23 which comes next week, and i will let you know what we get with that. Although I do believe that prop sizing is an art, at present I am finding it a bit of trial and error, and it gets expensive too! The props that we have used are michigan stamped, i think lancing sell them for about 260 + vat which isnt the end of the world as long as you dont order the wrong one!

As for the volvo thing, you could be correct, as on lancings website under sternpowr prop prices, they mention volvo adaptors.....
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Old 21 July 2003, 05:54   #47
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Nev, in addition to Michigan, Lancing are also buying in props from:

http://www.sillette.co.uk/

But they won't sell me one as Lancing have a "closed shop" on them with bulk ordering. Sillette actually make them to a Lancing spec.

Still want to look at the volvo option.

Pete
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Old 03 August 2003, 18:04   #48
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Here is a picture taken last week, it shows a p22 with its old transom insert removed, and a new one bonded in. Also the fibreglass strentheners have been cut back to allow access for removing the old plywood insert.

The original builders in their wisdom put these plywood inserts in and made most of them go all the way down to the base of the hull. The result is that when water gets in, the base of the insert slowly gets soggy and rots away. This has happened in the majority of the p22s that we have had in. Its not a major issue and the hull is still strong even with the soggy transom, but cutting the old one out is a pig of a job. It took over 4 full days for one person to complete it.

A half height insert has been bonded in, and convensional grp will be used to strenthen up the area below the insert. This area has to be strong as it takes the weight of the sterndrive (100 kgs+) and it also takes the thrust of the sterndrive. (160hp!).

The decks have been removed as there were a few damp areas noticed when we stripped back the original non slip coating, which had gone a bit soft. The original MOD non slip coating can cover a multitude of problems, so dont remove it!

I will put another picture up over the next few days when i get my camera back which shows the grp work done and the new engine bay bulkhead which has been put in, shortening the engine cover by approx 10".
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Old 04 August 2003, 21:03   #49
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Ok, Seb. To answer your question about engine power. Most ex MOD p22s were sold with either the Mermaid tubo 4 Dorset or the Mermaid turbo 4 Dover block. This in turn would power a SternPowr drive spinning normally a 16 3/4 x 21 prop. Although Mermaid sell these as a 180 hp engine, when the Navy bought them they were generally rated between 120hp and 145 hp (dover). The dover block being the slightly later block.

So when they are released from the MOD they are all generally no more than 145 hp.

If you want more power out of them, the first bit is easy. Simply up the fuel on the fuel pump a bit by turning the screw with the locking nut in a bit. Its a bit hit and miss as you wont know how much power you are getting. If you have access to a dyno, its simple.

The most (generally) you can get this way is 160-165 hp before the engine is running to rich. ie to much fuel & not enough air.

The next stage becomes a problem. To get any more will generally require either internal alterations or replacement fuel pump & injectors, and also the turbo needs upgrading. On some engines the bottom end needs upgrading along with different pistons. - although the last alteration (pistons & bottom end) I have never come accross on a dover block.

So 160 - 165 hp is the easiest option & it costs nothing. If you turn the fuel up without access to the dyno, you will immediately notice acceleration difference. To increase top speed you will need to change the prop pitch up a bit. If you are doing this without the aid of a dyno when you have too much fuel the engine will smoke a bit, although as i said it is a bit hit and miss doing it this way.

Before pushing the engine too far I would open the bottom end up (if you are mechanically able or have some help!) and check the condition of the bearings & crank. You may be able to get the fuel settings for the pump from mermaid & in that case you can take the pump to a injection specialist and get it reset to that power.

The easiest way to check the power output when it was made is to contact Mermaid with the serial number (on top of the rocker cover) and they will tell you what HP it was made for. Good luck..
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Old 20 August 2003, 05:19   #50
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Nev, how did you get on with the 23" prop. Am thinking about doing the same as I have plenty of power and think its running at full revs with ease so could improve the speed by upping the pitch. Speed with 21" now down to 26 knots following antifouling but it will do this with one person on board or six.

Pete
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