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Old 23 August 2004, 19:15   #11
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I'll have a look at extending the trailer a little, but I definatly don't want to push the RIB back any further as nose weight will be too light and transom will be too unsupported.

Will also phone witter tomorrow and ask their advice as well as my local Indispension dealer. I used to have an RSJ "U" section on the back of the Pug, when I used to transport my Paracart around and have also towed my trailer tent with it in position, but I think a heavy rectangular box section with welded re-inforcement might be the way to go, I'll find out at work next week if we've got some in our metal store.

THX everone and keep the Idea's comming.

Andy
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Old 24 August 2004, 00:39   #12
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Just a thought,how is the axle attached,can it be moved backwards along with the boat to keep the noseweight correct?My trailer is held together with nuts and bolts.Similarly can the rear rollers be moved back?
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Old 24 August 2004, 03:55   #13
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Dont do it

If you take the Defender as an example the tow ball is only a couple of inches from the rear of the vehicle, this is not done to make life awkward and skin your knuckles, it is done to achieve the best D value, in this case 17.4 kN. The further you move the tow ball backwards the more you have to reduce the D value and in effect reducing your towing capacity.

The difference between theoretical D value and the permissible value is set by the vehicle manufacture who takes into account things like weight transfer, rear axle load, handling and steering behaviour. 50mm rearwards movement of the tow ball will have a significant effect to the point where it is possible to make a vehicle jack-knife when conducting identical tests before and after.

The ideal set up for a tow bar is to have the ball on the rear axle which is not practical on most cars, however it is achieve in HGVs. Make this change and have accident and you will be liable if the change is considered to have contributed.

I think you should change the draw bar on the trailer, who made your trailer? Some manufacture can supplier longer draw bars that you bolt on above the existing bar.

Des
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Old 24 August 2004, 04:22   #14
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I get a lot of Irish runners calling in on me at work (furniture dealers)
These boys tow there caravans all over Europe & they all have a step bolted on the back of there Lu ton vans with a towing hitch bolted to the step!
The step protrudes a good 12" from the back of the van, it works for them!
Nick
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Old 24 August 2004, 04:37   #15
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Good point Des. I'm contacting Witter and Indespension in a mo to ask their advice.

Andy
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Old 24 August 2004, 05:19   #16
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Andy

Just had a look at the photos of your new pride and joy. Are you sure you will have a problem? The hitch and hand brake on your trailer must be at least 18" long, surly that will clear the centre mounted spare. I had a rear mounted spare (750 - 16, 7.5" wide x 32" dia.) on my 90 and that never even got 1/2 way down the hand brake lever. If you get the bow of the rib anywhere near the side of the spare, all the rear lights on one side of the truck will need replacing along with a rear wing and bumper.
A bit of string and a plumb line will be a quick way of finding out.
Or are you just worried about how well you glued on the bow fender?
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Old 24 August 2004, 05:51   #17
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That's right Mark I'm worried about the Rubbing strake falling off again .

I haven't even got the car yet, but should pick it up tomorrow or Thursday, so I don't know for sure that it won't fit on the back. I just didn't want any down time whilst I sorted a possible problem but it is close! Was hoping on the shelf parts were available.

Andy
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Old 24 August 2004, 06:10   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
I haven't even got the car yet, but should pick it up tomorrow or Thursday, Andy
Good news. Can I book a perm and set for Friday then.

You have probably found that this is not an off the shelf item by now.
If there is a problem, I would stick to removing the spare when the trailer is on if I were you.
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