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Old 20 November 2003, 05:11   #1
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Epoxy Resin

Hi All,

I am just about to fix my home made fiberglassed console to my Avon Searider. I am trying to do this without drilling any holes in the deck as I have just filled in all the holes from the previous owner and re-gelocoated the whole of the RIB.

My question is, would Epoxy Resin on it's own be strong enough to fix the console to the deck. Where the console base touches the deck is pure fiberglass ( no gelcoat on that bit ).

Cosmetically the RIB looks fantastic now and I was trying to avoid using Epoxy and then fiberglassing over the base because I have designed the console to fit exactly with anti-slip mat around the rest of the deck.

Many thanks in advance.

Steve.
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Old 20 November 2003, 05:18   #2
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Re: Epoxy Resin

Quote:
Originally posted by slangley
Hi All,

My question is, would Epoxy Resin on it's own be strong enough to fix the console to the deck.
NO !!! You need a mech fixing such as bolts or screws, together with either silicone or preferably sikaflex.
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Old 20 November 2003, 05:26   #3
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Thanks for your reply Dirk, I have seen a few RIBS where there are no screws or bolts holding the console in and just appears to be stuck to the deck. I was wondering how they did that.

Browsing the web there were loads of reviews on how good Epoxy Resin was as an adhesive. I was trying to avoid drilling into the deck as one of the problems I had was that even though the water ballast on the searider is sealed, I was still getting loads of water in the hull. The way I could see it was getting in was the holes in the deck.

I primarily use it for diving and when the water ballast system is open it takes ages to get on the plane due to the extra weight of the water in the hull. I used to have a pump going into the hull so I could pump the water out prior to moving off which solved the problem but is a pain. This is why I want to try to avoid drilling anything into the deck now.
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Old 20 November 2003, 05:27   #4
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Fix it tight...

On my previous RIB and the one currently owned by a pal, our consoles were both mechanically fixed with s/s bolts and epoxy. In both cases the console still had some movement. Give this careful thought especially if it has a grab rail/handle of any description fitted to the same as when that 16st pal of yours is hanging on for dear life, the console will need all the support you can give it.
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Old 20 November 2003, 05:33   #5
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Thanks MeMe, I can see your point. Do you have any idea of how deep I can drill without leaving an open channel into the hull.

The bolts that were there previously were very long. Unfortunately I didn't measure the depth before I filled it all, but I know that the old bolts went straight through because I could force water into the hull by puting a hose over the bolts.
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Old 20 November 2003, 05:37   #6
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Hi Steve

great to know your in the final stages of fixing and understand what you mean about the bolts into the deck, my consoul is screwed down to the deck and the screws are on the inside of the consoul rather than the outside, ribcraft bond and i believe screw there seats and consouls to the deck and the end result looks very nice.

Meme is correct, anything you screw down to the deck has to be a nice tight fit and seal any scews down with sikaflex as this will make a water proof bond.

Best Wishes and let us know how it goes.

Richard
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Old 20 November 2003, 08:11   #7
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Could you not put some internal flanges on the Console and then screw them down would this give you the look you want?
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Old 20 November 2003, 08:17   #8
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My new rib is having the console fixed to the deck with no mechanical fixings, the sets of jockey seats likewise.
Presume that on new build this is a suitable method but on reto. fits a mechanical fixing will give added strength.
Once bolted, can you gelcoat over the fixings to add to the strength?
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Old 20 November 2003, 08:36   #9
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Something like this Ian?
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Old 20 November 2003, 11:24   #10
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why worry about water getting into the hull, that's what the searider was designed to do! If you don't want the hull to flood during short stops,plug the two inlet holes in the bow, you'll find they're threaded and get yourself a self bailer to replace the original elephants trunk,(consists of a device with a ping pong ball affair which will block the stern outlet when stationary but allows any water entering the boat,including above deck, to exit the boat when moving. That way you still have maximum stability when stationary and she'll empty and come up on the plane in seconds.
with regards to your consul the best way is definitely to screw it down from inside (about 8 evenly spaced) using nice sized washers to spread the load and plenty of sikaflex all round to assist in adhesion (seals the screw holes as well.) the deck is only about 1.5cm thick so whatever you use will go through.
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