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Old 01 November 2011, 11:52   #31
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Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
I'm sure there are plenty out there, but you still need to drill the hole & more importantly seal it!


TSM has a very good point about drilling, however just to throw a spanner in the works, mine has the hole drilled with the cutting diameter about a plastic pipe's wall thickness below the deck, in order that the bottom of the inside of the pipe is level with the deck. Mine was drilled, resin coated to seal, then the plastic tube sikaflexed in. (hypalon trunk ditto to the plastic) That has the advantage that when the sika finally time expires, you still have a sealed transom.
I'm just putting a single one in and have the luxury of not worrying about how the transom wood is encapsulated as its an Ali hull. I found an Ali drink cup holder which is the correct diameter (3-5/8"). I think I am going to cut the bottom off that and use it as a transom tube. While I could have it welded in, I think I will use sikaflex as well, gives me more options in the future. I need to find a hypalon supplier and glue still.
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Old 02 November 2011, 05:05   #32
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I'm just putting a single one in and have the luxury of not worrying about how the transom wood is encapsulated as its an Ali hull. I found an Ali drink cup holder which is the correct diameter (3-5/8"). I think I am going to cut the bottom off that and use it as a transom tube. While I could have it welded in, I think I will use sikaflex as well, gives me more options in the future. I need to find a hypalon supplier and glue still.
Polaris hull... of course. In that case yes, your theory will work fine. With the only real decision being "do I want to turn to port or starboard to completely empty the hull". If you have a Aux / Kicker then the decision is probably fairly easy, as the "up" trunk will likely foul the kicker.

I guess any watertight "hose" would do the trick. The hypalon on the Avon / Humbers is because it's what they have plenty of offcuts of to make them with!
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Old 02 November 2011, 12:34   #33
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7) used a clip to hold the trunk in place.
TSM[/QUOTE]

Just got new elephants trunk through today. Is it worth sleaving over the old one? or Cutting the old one off completely? It looks like it goes into the transom? could this be the case? and should some sort of sealant/glue is that the flex stuff? be used between trunk and pipe as well as clip? Cheers
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Old 02 November 2011, 13:33   #34
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Polaris hull... of course. In that case yes, your theory will work fine. With the only real decision being "do I want to turn to port or starboard to completely empty the hull". If you have a Aux / Kicker then the decision is probably fairly easy, as the "up" trunk will likely foul the kicker.

I guess any watertight "hose" would do the trick. The hypalon on the Avon / Humbers is because it's what they have plenty of offcuts of to make them with!
I have an L shaped bracket on the port side for the transducer so that limits my choices.

I figured a single 4" diameter trunk has double the cross sectional area of 2x 2" diameter trunks hence the single large one is more effective from that perspective too. I can't really empty the hull anyway as water can flow from the deck into the bilges and I can't mount the trunk that low. Its just to evacuate a big wave. Bilge pump can handle the residuals.
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Old 02 November 2011, 13:58   #35
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Last Sunday was pretty horrible with the lareg waves up the swash, I used my time as a practice session going againts the waves at slow speed and then riding them coming back, good practice I would say, bit scary at times but helps me on experience of big waves. The Rib coped brillinatly, the trick was slow speed heading into the waves allowing them to go under the boat rathe than riding them and on way back lots of use of throttle control and going across biggest waves, it was very fun.
This has always intrigued me somewhat. If I were to end up being out in really rough conditions where the water was breaking over the bow or sides to flood the boat, the last thing I'd be wanting to do is let go of the wheel to let the trunks down. How in reality do people operate their trunks? Do you leave them trailing free whenever conditons are rough, or deploy only if needed? I've also wondered about having the bit of cord swilling around in the water near the prop.
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Old 09 January 2012, 22:14   #36
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Pics of the new trunk. Works brilliantly
http://www.rib.net/forum/members/4333-albums201.html
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Old 10 January 2012, 08:20   #37
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This has always intrigued me somewhat. If I were to end up being out in really rough conditions where the water was breaking over the bow or sides to flood the boat, the last thing I'd be wanting to do is let go of the wheel to let the trunks down. How in reality do people operate their trunks? Do you leave them trailing free whenever conditons are rough, or deploy only if needed? I've also wondered about having the bit of cord swilling around in the water near the prop.
I replaced the silly short bit of string with a length of rope that runs all the way to the helm position along the toobs. (I have the advantage of 5 grab handles along the toobs through which I can thread it - some of these stick - on eyes could do the same job).

The rope (4mm multistrand) is tied just ahead of where I sit with a slack looped bowline. I then have a small stainless hook tied to the rope at a position which hooks the hook onto the loop formed by the bowline when the trunk is up. to deploy, I simply unhook. To retrieve, I pull the hook & hook it on. Don't even need to stand up!

I found I had to splice a bit of bungee on to the rope & tie it back to the transom to overcome the friction & pull the cord out to drop the trunks when unhooked. Worth installing anyway as it also keeps the rope in tension when the trunks are up and keeps the hook in place.

When down there is not enough slack for the rope to go anywhere near the prop.


Before I rigged that I used to just deploy & ignore if it looked like it was going to be wet.
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Old 10 January 2012, 08:36   #38
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I just put mine down before I head out. It's fine when your under way.
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