Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 31 October 2011, 17:01   #21
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by two stroke mick View Post
I retro fitted my trunk to the Valiant DR 490. It is about 1 hrs work. Time well spent and very easy to do.
Do you have pictures of how you did this? I would love to find a kit which provides a trunk attached to a plastic fitting I can just glue into the proper size hole.
__________________
captnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31 October 2011, 17:45   #22
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,041
I used one of these on my first searider:

http://www.rib-shop.com/product.asp?...hFor=&PT_ID=29
__________________
whisper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31 October 2011, 18:06   #23
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by whisper View Post
I used one of these on my first searider:

http://www.rib-shop.com/product.asp?...hFor=&PT_ID=29
Awesome, seeing if they will ship internationally...

Besides the Avon's which sometime come with trunks, most RIBs over here don't have them. I am asking my builder if he'd be will to make up something exactly like this too.
__________________
captnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31 October 2011, 20:21   #24
Member
 
Country: UK - N Ireland
Town: Portaferry
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30hp
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 104
fitting position

Would any of the folks that have fitted a trunk to a SR4 care to share the position and dimensions they worked to please. e.g. was the bottom of the hole flush to the deck surface, how far from center line? thinking of fitting one (two?) as I really don't trust electric pumps on their own. GS
__________________
MI3GTO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31 October 2011, 20:31   #25
Member
 
Jizm's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
We used to fit these scuppers, can't comment on longevity but they seemed to work ok.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	seascupper-250x250.jpg
Views:	180
Size:	17.8 KB
ID:	63633  
Jizm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31 October 2011, 21:56   #26
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Twin 50 Mariners
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscarguitar View Post
Boris,

The trunk creates a big hole in the transom and my worry is that the trunk will tear without me knowing and fill the boat up with no way of easily stopping flow!
Can happen - first time I left my boat on a mooring overnight in wind and waves we came back next morning to find a split had developed near the end of the tube (ie the higher end with the tube hitched up on the transom), had been dipping under the water, and the boat had progressively swamped. Cue a big bucketing session...

But I've still got the trunk (with a new tube!). Best way by far of getting rid of lots of water in a hurry.....
__________________
Smithyyy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31 October 2011, 22:08   #27
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jizm View Post
We used to fit these scuppers, can't comment on longevity but they seemed to work ok.
I have something comparable right now, its not a big enough hole to move out water FAST. Post-stuffing the bow into a wave you are riding so low that subsequent waves like to come aboard for the party too...
__________________
captnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01 November 2011, 09:30   #28
Member
 
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
RIBase
I) I filled a tablet box with Firbregrass resin.
2) I placed the tablet box into the original 2" hole and sealed it into position with sika flex.
3) I cored out a 70mm hole with a core bit on a drill
4) lined the sides of the hole with sika flex.
5) Inserted the pipe section.
6) placed some sikaflex on the outside of the pipe section and placed the trunk over it.
7) used a clip to hold the trunk in place.

NB drill from the inside out not the other way around or you may get your levels wrong and cut up the deck.

TSM
__________________
two stroke mick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01 November 2011, 13:51   #29
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,667
Quote:
Originally Posted by MI3GTO View Post
Would any of the folks that have fitted a trunk to a SR4 care to share the position and dimensions they worked to please. e.g. was the bottom of the hole flush to the deck surface, how far from center line? thinking of fitting one (two?) as I really don't trust electric pumps on their own. GS
Most ribs with the "Searider shaped" floor (i.e it's not flat all the way to the toobs) have them as far apart as geometry will allow. Bottom of the trunk hole needs to be flush or thereabouts with the floor, and in the case of the SR, the slopey bit of floor tangentical to the bit of the hole that is nearest to it, although that is not hugely important - it's just that the closer you get to the corner, the more water you get out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack View Post
Do you have pictures of how you did this? I would love to find a kit which provides a trunk attached to a plastic fitting I can just glue into the proper size hole.
I'm sure there are plenty out there, but you still need to drill the hole & more importantly seal it!


TSM has a very good point about drilling, however just to throw a spanner in the works, mine has the hole drilled with the cutting diameter about a plastic pipe's wall thickness below the deck, in order that the bottom of the inside of the pipe is level with the deck. Mine was drilled, resin coated to seal, then the plastic tube sikaflexed in. (hypalon trunk ditto to the plastic) That has the advantage that when the sika finally time expires, you still have a sealed transom.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01 November 2011, 14:54   #30
Member
 
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
RIBase
Photos of trunk as installed
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P5210089.jpg
Views:	217
Size:	76.7 KB
ID:	63646   Click image for larger version

Name:	P5210090.jpg
Views:	190
Size:	68.2 KB
ID:	63647  
__________________
two stroke mick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01 November 2011, 15:52   #31
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
I'm sure there are plenty out there, but you still need to drill the hole & more importantly seal it!


TSM has a very good point about drilling, however just to throw a spanner in the works, mine has the hole drilled with the cutting diameter about a plastic pipe's wall thickness below the deck, in order that the bottom of the inside of the pipe is level with the deck. Mine was drilled, resin coated to seal, then the plastic tube sikaflexed in. (hypalon trunk ditto to the plastic) That has the advantage that when the sika finally time expires, you still have a sealed transom.
I'm just putting a single one in and have the luxury of not worrying about how the transom wood is encapsulated as its an Ali hull. I found an Ali drink cup holder which is the correct diameter (3-5/8"). I think I am going to cut the bottom off that and use it as a transom tube. While I could have it welded in, I think I will use sikaflex as well, gives me more options in the future. I need to find a hypalon supplier and glue still.
__________________
captnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02 November 2011, 09:05   #32
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,667
Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack View Post
I'm just putting a single one in and have the luxury of not worrying about how the transom wood is encapsulated as its an Ali hull. I found an Ali drink cup holder which is the correct diameter (3-5/8"). I think I am going to cut the bottom off that and use it as a transom tube. While I could have it welded in, I think I will use sikaflex as well, gives me more options in the future. I need to find a hypalon supplier and glue still.
Polaris hull... of course. In that case yes, your theory will work fine. With the only real decision being "do I want to turn to port or starboard to completely empty the hull". If you have a Aux / Kicker then the decision is probably fairly easy, as the "up" trunk will likely foul the kicker.

I guess any watertight "hose" would do the trick. The hypalon on the Avon / Humbers is because it's what they have plenty of offcuts of to make them with!
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02 November 2011, 16:34   #33
Member
 
sirewan's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Jumper
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard 135 Mariner
MMSI: 235088832
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 27
7) used a clip to hold the trunk in place.
TSM[/QUOTE]

Just got new elephants trunk through today. Is it worth sleaving over the old one? or Cutting the old one off completely? It looks like it goes into the transom? could this be the case? and should some sort of sealant/glue is that the flex stuff? be used between trunk and pipe as well as clip? Cheers
__________________
https://www.looking4aboat.com/
sirewan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02 November 2011, 17:33   #34
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
Polaris hull... of course. In that case yes, your theory will work fine. With the only real decision being "do I want to turn to port or starboard to completely empty the hull". If you have a Aux / Kicker then the decision is probably fairly easy, as the "up" trunk will likely foul the kicker.

I guess any watertight "hose" would do the trick. The hypalon on the Avon / Humbers is because it's what they have plenty of offcuts of to make them with!
I have an L shaped bracket on the port side for the transducer so that limits my choices.

I figured a single 4" diameter trunk has double the cross sectional area of 2x 2" diameter trunks hence the single large one is more effective from that perspective too. I can't really empty the hull anyway as water can flow from the deck into the bilges and I can't mount the trunk that low. Its just to evacuate a big wave. Bilge pump can handle the residuals.
__________________
captnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02 November 2011, 17:58   #35
Member
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,893
Quote:
Originally Posted by boristhebold View Post
Last Sunday was pretty horrible with the lareg waves up the swash, I used my time as a practice session going againts the waves at slow speed and then riding them coming back, good practice I would say, bit scary at times but helps me on experience of big waves. The Rib coped brillinatly, the trick was slow speed heading into the waves allowing them to go under the boat rathe than riding them and on way back lots of use of throttle control and going across biggest waves, it was very fun.
This has always intrigued me somewhat. If I were to end up being out in really rough conditions where the water was breaking over the bow or sides to flood the boat, the last thing I'd be wanting to do is let go of the wheel to let the trunks down. How in reality do people operate their trunks? Do you leave them trailing free whenever conditons are rough, or deploy only if needed? I've also wondered about having the bit of cord swilling around in the water near the prop.
Erin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 January 2012, 02:14   #36
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Pics of the new trunk. Works brilliantly
http://www.rib.net/forum/members/4333-albums201.html
__________________
captnjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 January 2012, 12:20   #37
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,667
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin View Post
This has always intrigued me somewhat. If I were to end up being out in really rough conditions where the water was breaking over the bow or sides to flood the boat, the last thing I'd be wanting to do is let go of the wheel to let the trunks down. How in reality do people operate their trunks? Do you leave them trailing free whenever conditons are rough, or deploy only if needed? I've also wondered about having the bit of cord swilling around in the water near the prop.
I replaced the silly short bit of string with a length of rope that runs all the way to the helm position along the toobs. (I have the advantage of 5 grab handles along the toobs through which I can thread it - some of these stick - on eyes could do the same job).

The rope (4mm multistrand) is tied just ahead of where I sit with a slack looped bowline. I then have a small stainless hook tied to the rope at a position which hooks the hook onto the loop formed by the bowline when the trunk is up. to deploy, I simply unhook. To retrieve, I pull the hook & hook it on. Don't even need to stand up!

I found I had to splice a bit of bungee on to the rope & tie it back to the transom to overcome the friction & pull the cord out to drop the trunks when unhooked. Worth installing anyway as it also keeps the rope in tension when the trunks are up and keeps the hook in place.

When down there is not enough slack for the rope to go anywhere near the prop.


Before I rigged that I used to just deploy & ignore if it looked like it was going to be wet.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10 January 2012, 12:36   #38
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Northumberland
Boat name: Dr Doof
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury 125hp
MMSI: 235082981
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 297
I just put mine down before I head out. It's fine when your under way.
__________________
Dr Doof is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 15:41.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.